In the last year I learned that at least on 49-52 Chevy it was an option to have the hood pop from inside car. As this car will likely be in kc a lot I was wondering how much of a pain to convert to that let alone find the parts. I know the latch ***embly on my 53 looks very similar to the one on my buddy's 49 fleet line. Would like the extra bit of security without modern parts. My original plan was to drill the latch plate so I could put a padlock in to block it from unlatching. Also curious if anything for the conversion could be used from a similar era olds
That's all it is- an extra hole on the latch mechanism plate connected to a cable. You can use an aftermarket choke cable and mount it up under the dash, as long as it is long enough. Olds would be just as easy, probably uses the same latch as the Chevy anyway.
I'll have to look on my latch tomorrow. Never noticed. My buddy's 49 olds I'm thinking had a different looking latch
I was thinking about doing the same thing with my 48 pickup this week. Lately it seems that there are too many old fart non car guys showing up at events and wanting to show their buddies that they still know how to open a hood or pop open a 56 Chevy tail light to get to the gas cap.
This is a great idea! Please post pics as you get it done so we can save on the planning steps. I think the problem will come with the direction of pull that is needed. Most mechanical hood releases pull forward, while inside pulls go sideways with a pivot lever.
The 55-57 Tbirds have a cable latch. However, it is not uncommon for the cable to come loose or break. That could be a big problem, if you have to get under the hood in a hurry. Some Tbird owners deal with it by attaching a second fastener on the end of the cable or by installing a second cable. I know there is a lot of tension on my 55's cable that requires considerable force to pop the hood.
Most of the guys I see running the factory remote cable on their 49-52 Chevy's are running the original cable
Just drill a 1/16" hole at the point furthest from the pivot , and attach a cable there so it pulls at roughly 90 degrees. As a backup, I attach a piece of mig welding wire and sneak it out a gap in the inner fender, so you just need to reach up into the wheelwell to pop the hood.
So apparently after checking eBay not only are the remote release hood latches specific they start at $300 lol. So looking at my original latch I see where I can cut a nub off the safety catch. Then on the matching nub on primary latch slot and drill it to hold a cable. And add a brack on the back to mount the housing