Steve, I have blown 354 Hemi, 28deg. total timing, 7 PSI boost, 32 Ford, alum rad. clutch fan and (SHROUD).My byp*** is tapped into the top of the BB water pump, straight up into the crossover. Where your AN aeroquip is. You would put a TEE in the crossover. You only need a 3/8" line. I have no cooling problems. Ago
RWD Volvos put a sealed expansion tank up high, and run hoses to it uphill from the top of the radiator which is the natural high point. Pretty much self bleeding. Very slick. They also have a complicated thermostat that carefully controls water flow enforcing byp*** which is so necessary when running a thermostat. http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/04/07/12/07/1990_volvo_740_4_dr_gl_sedan-pic-51496.jpeg Compared to Renault 16 whose heater core was far away and higher than the rad, requiring bleed valves all over the place. http://www.r16site.com/tips/Cooling/BleedPoint1.jpg and a complicated factory bleed procedure while revving the engine up.
Closed in? No hood & no inner fenders here. Not sure on heat range of plugs- haven't got that far yet. Might swap out the valve covers from the aluminum PAW covers to the Donovan ones w/ the 4 breathers later after I get this car road worthy. I'll try the intake 1st- probably a single 8an line to the pump. Is this normal? Shouldn't this be tapped straight into body on a BBC pump? I didn't cross thread it- it's drilled & tapped on an angle. That's finger tight. Pump is one I've had laying around for years. Weiand BBC #8212
I love how guys like to say they have a old Hemi with no heating issues and its normally aspirated. Big difference with a blown Hemi! First thing I noticed is you have a CSR water pump, that's a 37 GPM pump rating and I bet that's over rated. They are great for drag cars or mild motors on the street but not a blown Hemi that's making any power (overdriven). Second I would ***ume you have copper head gaskets, you need to run under a 12 pound cap, I like 7lbs. I recommend moving more water and pulling more air thru the radiator, if you run a thermostat you need a by p***, the 1/8 inch holes in the thermostat are mainly just to not trap air. Restrictor plates work sometimes but not in all motors. If your still puking water I recommend a by-p*** from the back of each head to the return line back in the radiator past the thermostat housing. I fought this problem for a year with no help from the so call experts out there including HH. Last thing, never run more than 30 degrees of timing total, I like 28. What is your timing at idle? There are some tricks there that help. Dave.
Some good ideas here and I also like to move coolant thru the back of the head. Keep in mind that there is a fine line between moving not enough coolant and moving coolant too quickly so that it fails to absorb, and re-radiate, enough heat. .
I think your on the right track with the tank mounted to the thermostat housing because with the manifold sitting above the radiator you would not get the air out of the system without it. Plum your recovery tank with the top vented it will allow the expanding antifreeze a place to go and will get **** back in when cooling down. I have a similar tank on mine and while mine is not a blown engine and it works good.
Got side tracked w/ the trans & ignoring the cooling...for now. Had to pull the 727 out to get it rebuilt so I could drop it off on Monday. It will be manual VB, no kickdown, no vacuum & a 3k stall converter. I think I have 7 projects on this car going right now. Headers are being modified (one tube hits tire at full lock) & then ceramic coated. Fan & shroud are off the car- it's a Permacool. Unknown CFM's. I'll amp clamp it running off battery- report back. BBC short water pump is installed. Need to space the pulley out 3/4" to line up w/ crank pulley & alt that's frame mounted. Had to order a swivel AN fitting for the byp***. Maybe I'll get to that tomorrow.
if the motor was full of **** maybe the rad is too usually it the side tubes that get blocked the ones you don't see. when the rad is lower than the motor i fill the rad then remove a fitting on the intake finish filling there reinstall fitting finger tight run the motor until normal temp loosen fitting to let air out until just coolant runs then tighten everything. don't be fooled by a temp gauge reading low temp it might not be in coolant just steam ask me how i know got badly burnt
Several of us have run or are currently running 392 Hemis in our cars, 2 33 fords and a 39 ford Sedan, no one is running a thermostat or a blower either. There are a couple with Standard transmissions and they run about 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the automatic cars. I have attached a picture of a 392 Hemi with a 5spd and the radiator is mounted similar to that of a willy's. Notice the radiator fill on the drivers side rear head also. The engine never runs hot has one electric fan that has 2 speeds and going down the road usually it is in the off position to get the temp up around 165-170, just wanted to give you other options to consider or to look at and yes they get driven and it does get into the mid 90's but the temps stay pretty close to the same. Added a picture of a 33 and how the cooling lines are run.
I think it is snap on that sell a systems that pulls a vacuum on the system then you put the hose into coolant and it fill it all the way with no air left in the system.
No blower motor experience...I can't see the pics you posted, but the radiator cap needs to be the highest thing. You don't want any crazy loops in any water hoses either. As mentioned, those Moroso restrictors work well. I've also drilled holes in thermostats. That helps too. Maybe someone can answer this, but is there an early hemi (read incorrect) head gasket that may block the water p***ages on you application? I've seen this before on a BBC when Mark V gaskets were incorrectly used for Mark IV heads. I don't really know a whole lot about early hemis, but the cooling principles are the same. Good luck
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