Well color me dumb as dirt, but I never had the spring clamps come loose on me or cause an issue. I used my brake spring pliers to r and r them.
My old Cummins and Deuce and 1/2 , had a couple of enclosed worm clamps , not sure the brand , but these were best I have ever used . I think McMaster Carr is the supplier
GM was still using those stupid tower clamps into the 80’s. Just replaced a heater valve on my 82 Vette, held in place by a damn tower clamp. Worm gear clamps went back on it.
Pretty sure when I pulled the original engine in my 53 Bel Air that had sat since 73 and had been pretty much untouched under hood before that it had all worm clamps
My 442 has that style clamp like your top pic. They hold tight, don’t leak, easily removable and they are stainless steel so the polish up nice. I sold a little 62 nova a few years back and made “tower clamps” for it. I should patent them
While not quite the same, these might be a good option, provided you aren't using them on a high-pressure fuel line: https://www.grainger.com/category/p...ng-clamps/spring-tension-clamps-for-tube-hose Just buy a few extra for when they slip out of the pliers and launch to the other side of the garage. FWIW, I've never had an issue with Corbin clamps, but they aren't very user friendly, even when used with the specific pliers. If you go with the worm-gear type clamps, spring for the all-stainless steel version, usually marked with an "all SS" on the barrel section.
Just to toss out another part of the whole process to connect rubber hose to metal nipple assembly; traditional cars rarely dealt with pressures over 5-10 PSI. Most locations used a minor barb or ridge. So what do you use to ease installation while not being too slippery? Dry, a bit of WD-40, spit, silicone lube, grease? One guy noted that this would have been researched by the factory where this task is performed many times on every vehicle. If you have tried to slip off an OE installed hose even with the clamp backed off, you know that stick. He races cars and wanted that OE security. He tried various things and came up with Isopropyl alcohol. It 'lubes' during assembly, then dries to create a snug fit. BTW, towers suck, and the spring clamps always twist, even with the correct pliers. I understand that rubber shrinks over time, so a screw clamp can lose tension. The modern flat spring ones require a special tool to remove and install, pliers are often not able to access them. I think this is one area where the best solution still hasn't been found.
I think that's going a little too far on a "period correct" hot rod. I've built a couple of flathead powered Model A's and try to use mostly period correct parts including a generator but never worried about hose clamps!
Factories in period always used the cheapest fastest way to install clamps - spring & tower. Those generally got tossed when the first owner changed a hose to a worm drive. Any poor hot rod builder in the 60s would be going through his dad's junk box digging out those hard to use factory clamps for his car. The 30 cents he saved was a gallon of gas.
I have always saved any clamps that I deemed re-useable and have accumulated a few bins full; bought a variety of several dozen new ones at a yard sale 30 years ago and bought one of these wire clamp tools years ago that I have not used yet. If they do the job, they are not only good, they are good enough.
Worm gears clamps IMO clamp down the tightest. The OP wanted period correct, if you have proper size hoses towers should work fine. I have owned my "61" for 37 years with the tower type clamps, never had a problem. My car is a garage queen and rarely sees weather so they still look new without rust. I use the old thumb screw tower type on my "32", besides looking period correct, they worked a hell of a lot better then the early Ford repop clamps with the sliding tongue. Those are junk.
I'd rather be tootling along in my Hotrod with decent clamps instead of on the side of the road trying to stop coolant or fuel leaking because of 'period correct' clamps.
Rusty, check out this place: https://hcl-clamping.com/products/double-wire-screw-hose-clamp-9-5-12mm-zinc-plated-steel they have other sizes as well.
@Timothy Murphy Hello, In the 60s, there were all sorts of hose clamps for all makes. The wire loop units were good, but were hard to take off or slide back to adjust or unhook the hose if needed. The screw units with grooves were the easiest and most of us took any wire loops off and replaced them with the screw units of varying sizes. The most common thing to do was adjust the screw so it was sticking out facing you when you needed access. Some custom guys turned the groove side showing for a smoother look when people saw their motor compartments. That was an extra thing to garner more custom points. If ever a change was needed, a funky screw driver with 90 degree angle was necessary to take off the clamp. But, the polished or chromed mini louvers + adjustable screw or flat wrench sided versions on the shiny strip showing on black hoses looked great. Jnaki The ones we did not like were the ones that had screws on top for adjustment, but clamped into a clip of sorts. A lot of times, we screwed the down, but somehow they popped up for a reason or two. These are timeless and work well. All sizes for all application. There is no period correct clamps for the 60s as plenty of different ones were used, but all fingers could point to those screw in clamps with grooves. Easy on/off, simple adjustments, and plenty of sizes for all hoses... YRMV
A 2 B >>>I have always saved any clamps>>accumulated a few bins full; bought a variety of several dozen new ones at a yard sale 30 years ago and bought one of these wire clamp tools years ago that I have not used yet>>>> Since you seem afflicted with hose-clamp obsessive-compulsive disorder, I suggest this kit might satisfy perhaps one of your deepest desires to have your very own clamp for up to a 16-foot diameter hose should you ever need it.
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