VERY technical question, that I am over thinking. Can anyone help me "correctly locate" all the fender mounting holes in the 32 roadster rear 1/4 wheel house? Please. (Brookville Body) Is there a "template" I can bum, beg, borrow, steal, or buy? Or, is there an easier way anyone can help me to "percisely locate" the mounting holes? I can step drill after location. The 8' long copy of the original roadster body blueprint I have is no help. Once after the body has been ***embled, the print's starting reference points are gone. Also, I cna't hang a rear fender and trace the holes. Because. I have NO access of original 32 rear fenders! And even if I did have the rear fenders. I would have to have the front fenders and running boards mounted to correctly align the rear fenders! (this is a hi-boy) Thanks
I think I understand why you are trying to accurately locate the fender mounting holes, you are trying to make the body look like an original. I did the same thing, the way I did mine was to make a template off an original body. It took a gallon of bondo to do both sides, I think I threw the templates away, but if you ask me real nice, I can make a flexible shape pattern and mail it to you. Tom
My coup fenders are coming off in a couple of weeks, I’m not sure how to template the upper hole locations. I don’t know how accurate it would be laying out a template from the inside as there are cage nuts in the way. Unless you want to add fenders later, accuracy probably isn’t important
I sell the original FOMOCO prints for '32 roadster & frame prints both for $85.00 + S/H charges to your zip code, if you are intrested, Don
YES! It's been many, many, many moons ago, can't remember, you know, that old fart's CRS Disease! But I bought those prints from you. Not at the same time,,,,,, I think,,,,. They both have been well used! Right now, the 8' long body print is laid out on the floor of my utility trailer, so I can roll up on a stool and "comfortably" (w/o bending over. Back!) read and referance the print! ( I have limited (beginner?) blueprint reading experience. Coal mine welding) The roadster body print is really not that much help. Here is why. 1. The original drawing was done during the depression. If any person could correctly load a mechanical pencil, and knew how to use a Number 1 pencil, and keep it sharpened, they were hired as a draftsman! 2nd. The start reference points are drawen as a single panel. Like just after, or when the 1/4 panel is stamped. After the 1/4 panels are ***embled into a complete body those start reference points are now gone. Look at the bottom of the 1/4 panel wheel house print. All those 2" incriments that run along and start at the sharp edge rolled bead at the bottom of the door jam roll. Once when the rocker panel has been welded and blended in, that referance point is now gone. The 2nd start referance point has NOTHING in coralation with the 1/4 panel! That referance point is the center line of the rear axle, and 1/2" behind it. Follow that 1/2" line up to top of the wheel house there is the center line of that fender hole. There is no referance of the in-out hole location. Ok, how much plus or minus measurement is in the body to frame mounting? How much plus or minus is in the rear end nounted into the frame. Those two combined could off be up to 1"! So drawing in such a referance, start point, is frutal. I took that body print to a certified draftsman (at a car show) to get his opnion, and maybe hole location. His quote, was the depression comment above, and that was the most confusing blueprint he has ever seen! I will say this. Those prints of yours are WELL WORTH whatever it was that I paid for them!
I am in the same situation. I need to get to a friend’s in Nashville and measure his gennie roadster and make a pattern. I do have a pair of Wescott rear fenders with dimples showing location of the needed holes. Just not sure of their accuracy. But if they’re made to bolt on original car, should be close. PM me if interested and I will try to make a template. Bill
Measurement from trunk pan @ rear of the Quarter, start then towards B pillar.. maybe somebody will have a quarter that is not installed to get a better measurement or pattern 1st pic close pretty much top center of Wheel well,, From belt line off radius to center of bolt 0.950 2nd pic 1.125 to center off quarter 3rd pic Off quarter to center 1.575
"""Of a inch""" off side of Quarter panel 0.950,,, Top first bolt center of wheel well Of a inch 1.125,,,,, 2nd bolt towards door , Of a inch 1.575 3rd bolt towards door / B pillar, there are ""3 bolts"" that hold the fender ""Vertical"" to the quarter... Driver side looking @ from out side of quarter panel 12 ish O clock 11 ish O clock 10 ish O clock P***enger Side 12 ish O clock 1 ish O clock 2 ish O clock
Why? Are you building a correct car for points? If you are not going to build a fender car, just build it and move on. Let us see what your building..
Ok, I'll answer you two. This is a '90's Brookville Body. It cost a viagina hair over 10K then. To paint it in the early teens cost a viagina hair under 5K. To replace that body today, with paint and hardware, would probably be a you-know -what around 20+K! So before I 'poke' ANY holes in that body, it's will be in the correct factory location! I'm sure you have heard of the saying? "Measure Twice, Cut Once" Well once I find out the correct location, I'll cover the wheel well with masking tape, measure, lay/draw/mark the holes out on the tape. Several days later I'll measure again, see if the same numbers come up. Wait another several days to 'think' more about it, then measure again! If the same measurments come up the third time, then with much trepadation, I'll have step drills marked to the correct factory size for each hole, drill all the required fender mounting holes. Shop vac up all the shavings inside and out. Then take a small artist brush, gently coat the bare metal part of each hole. Overkill!? To some of you guys I'd figgure so. To me, it's all WRONG, out of procedure! For the holes should have been drilled BEFORE paint!
And to be correct the horizontal holes will need studs welded in them. How do you do that with the paint on there?
Even if you get all the penetrations, studs and cage nuts correct you will still have to oblong a few holes on the fenders.
Mr. 1930 Eddy. Very nice "garage tip" suggestion you pictured there! Using little magnets for a "third hand" to hole the tape measure in place! Glad you thought of that. Finally got my grandson to take some pictures. When you stated that you were measuring fron the rear of ther wheel house at the trunk floor, to the center line of the fender. Where you placing your tape measure starting point flat on the floor, or or on the floor's lip up gainst the 1/4? The "in-out" (from the 1/4 panel side inward) measurement you drew an arrow indicating that decimal measurment taken from the middle of that rolled bead at the top of the wheel house. Is your measurement taken from the middle or the bottom of that roll? Your decimal converted to tape measure fractions are 15/16", 1 1/8", and 1 9/16" correct? Thanks again for your comments and time. Sorry, I got two of the same pictue. Don't know how to delete one of them
Good question. To be sure,,,,,, I don't know yet. I have some welder's heat dam that is in a tube (like toothpaste), that has worked for me quite well in the past. Put a bead around where I'm gonig to weld, then put a gob on the 'backside'. When done wipe it all away, then take one of those foam pads and some paint cleaner, can't tell there has been any welding done. The situation now the paint is different because the color is flat black, so I'm not going to be able to buff it. Try to experiment with a piece of s**** sheet metal and some flat black color, smear a gob heat dam on, then a spot weld on the back side, see what happens. There is something else I have been trying to read about (figgure out how to do it) for the past 5-6 years. I want to put the side curtain rod holes in my doors. I don't know how to get that little bead/flair that is around the hole.
[QUOTE=" I have some welder's heat dam that is in a tube (like toothpaste), that has worked for me quite well in the past. Put a bead There is something else I have been trying to read about , I want to put the side curtain rod holes in my doors. I don't know how to get that little bead/flair that is around the hole.[/QUOTE] I used a Garment tape, was able to get it to bottom of trunk pan , (not off 1/4ish lip ) The .950, 1.125,, 1.575 was off center of contour / bead . If I remember correctly FoMoCo fenders have over size vertical holes , been awhile since I had my fenders off, I do not think B -V do, I think I have seen B-V with no holes? On 3 horizontal studs I think I would just drill the holes and maybe use 3M panel adhesive to hold in place, (Small thin bead under side of head) that way don't have to worry about the paint blistered by welding Maybe In way I think , the side curtain holes, If access to Lathe make a male and female dimple dye, so you can Press / stamp ring into door ? Also when it comes to Original Ford blue prints , the fractions where many 32 second measurements?
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