Help I lost the info for the adjustments on the Corvair steering box for my t bucket. I HATE that. There are 2 adjustments,& if I remember right they are supposed to be done in sequence. I cant remember if the car is supposed to be on the ground,or raised up for adjustments.The locknut & screw are right up against the side of the block,but I think Ive got an offset screwdriver that I can make work. I need to do this so I can make the Moon Xmas show. SPEED WOBBLES ARE NO FUN! ! Thanks, Troy
Like on any box, adjusts the worm gear first with a slight pre-load on the bearings, then adjust the side nut to have a slight drag when the box is centered. It is best to do this with the pitman arm disconnected in order to getr a good feel.
Should I put the steering shaft back in so I can use the steering wheel for "feel". The steering shaft just drops right into the column,splines on the shaft to the box,& a set screw to hold it. I cant remember how I did the initial adjustments when I built the car,,11 yrs ago. Thanks again for the help, Troy
Maybe this'll help: "Adjustment and Lubrication Do not use lower unit grease, power steering or transmission fluid in your box. Also, 90-wt. gear lube is a no-no. You use axle-bearing grease. People call me all the time to ask why their shaft is leaking. The truth is most boxes are not engineered to use lubricants. Use axle shaft grease. It clings to the worm shaft, is water proof, and NEVER NEEDS LUBED AFTER THAT. PERIOD. The parts just don't turn that fast to cause any real friction. Now there are only TWO, that is (2) adjustments on the box. Your large nut on the top regulates play when you pull up and down on your shaft. That's all it does. The other adjustment regulates play when you steer left to right. DO NOT tighten it all the way or it will BIND. You want about 1/2 inch of play on your steering wheel BEFORE YOUR FRONT WHEELS START TURNING. YOU can get almost ALL of the play OUT, even if your box is old and "TIRED". I've had many old boxes and if you obey some simple rules, they will give you many years of faithful service. Sometimes people judge their boxes with their fingers. This is wrong. Mount your box, and pump your worm shaft slowly, let the lube surround your worm, once it gets lubed real good, give it some quick thrusts. If there is a feeling of nothing, you haven't got ALL the play out. Unscrew your nut, have your wife or girlfriend move it back and forth real slow. Screw it in a little tighter. Now tighten your nut. by Michael Daniels " More Corvair box info at http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/ch***is/csb/index.asp
Heres a pretty good FYI I found from another board. Thanks again, tc There are two adjustments, the worm bearing tension, and the gear mesh adjustment. First, jack up the vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground, so the steering is free to turn and, the steering box is centered. Put jack stands under the frame! Whatever you do, do not try to adjust out the play at anything other than straight ahead!! You'll kill the box on short order because the worm has a high spot in the center position. {Before attempting to do this first adjustment, make sure that you back off on the gear mesh screw on the side of the box from 1 2 turns.} The worm bearings are adjusted by loosening the big lock nut, then turning the bearing housing. On the reversed Corvair box, look at the top of the box, where the steering shaft (to the steering wheel) sticks out. On other steering boxes, this adjustment is at the bottom of the box, at the front. Usually a hammer and blunt punch will loosen the locknut. The bearings should be adjusted to get a few inch-pounds of drag on the worm gear (steering wheel), but you can adjust it by tightening up to remove the play, then go just a smidgen tighter, and tighten the locknut securely {make sure you hold the adjusting nut in place while tightening the lock nut}. Now, turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock. There should be no binding. If there is, loosen the worm shaft adjustment slightly until the binding is gone. Next, adjust the gear mesh, which is the slotted screw with a {usually} 5/8" hex locknut. Get the steering centered (wheels straight ahead), and loosen the locknut. Gradually tighten the adjusting screw in, while frequently checking the steering play by turning the steering wheel back and forth a turn or two...but leave it centered when adjusting. Eventually, you will take up the slack, unless the gears/bushings are really worn, in which case the adjusting screw will go all the way into the box. Tighten till the slack is all gone, then add about a half turn of preload to it. If all is well, you should feel the steering get just a little bit harder as you p*** thru the center of the steering wheel's travel. Tighten the locknut securely. A good gear lube from the local GM dealer works really well. The correct GM part # for this lubrication is 1052182. This lube is half way between grease and oil. Oil is too thin and leaks out, and grease is too thick and won't properly lube the re-circulating balls.
The Jalopy Journal
