So it's been about 50/50 split on what I have read on this subject. I have painted many backyard projects with cheap Acrylic Enamel Martin Senior or Paint for Cars Brand with good results...after wet sanding and buffing of course. Problem is that it fades and needs to be buffed every year or so. I had a brain fart that I could wet sand but not buff, but spray a clearcoat over it to help retain the luster. I understand that urethane clear is "Hot" and will wrinkle about anything besides urethane....unless it thoroughly dry. I don't usually wetland and buff AE for at least 5-7 days so I would think the AE would be OK to clearcoat. I have attached a pic of the paint/ hardener and clear/activator. Ok tell me how dumb I am....
If the acrylic enamel base coat was catalyzed, you MIGHT get away with it. If not, you are going to lift everything down to the primer. Could always do a test piece or test a painted area of the car that wont be seen before just scuffing and clearing the whole thing. If it works, I'd do light coats and let them get hand slick in between. Build slowly and you could maybe get away with no issue. When you scuff it, before clear, make double sure you haven't cut through the top coat anywhere. You don't want the clear getting under the edge of the paint. It will lift.
I've never done exactly what you're saying, but I have cut acrylic enamel flat and put 2 coats of urethane clear over it with no issues at all. Biggest thing is knowing that the enamel is finished curing before sealing it in with urethane clear. But I've never used acrylic enamel clear. Looks like it would fade out also if you cut and buffed it. Probably all boils down to the quality of the product you're using.
It's not always the case, but generally speaking, if something uses a catalyst or hardener, it's not gonna be aggressive.
Enamel clear over enamel single stage. That would be my move. The whole speed-o-kote kit you have is less than $100, another $100 for enamel clear isn't bad. You'll spend that much in prep materials if it goes wrong and you have to sand it off Edited: had wrong cheap clear coat company before.
"Both paints", that's the color cote and the clear cote need to be catalyzed with a similar catalyst. I have tried to clear cote over cured alkyd enamel it was like putting paint stripper on the enamel, it wrinkled that bad....
I did just that on an OT car. Used their paint and clear, with hardner in both. Didn't have any problems with it in the four years after I painted it. On the other hand, I painted a church van with just their enamel paint, no clear, in 4 years it was faded and chalky looking.
Ah ya get what you pay for. If I only sprayed 1 car a year, or maybe every 5 years, I'd think differently, but I'm not a hobby painter. I know what works in my shop, and what doesn't. Like I've said on the hamb many times, you do it your way, I do it mine. My way works for me, and with 14 customer cars here at the moment, and a schedule that'll make you puke, I must be doing something right.
And an upholstery shop, building a new home, full time musician, union president...... yeah I'm wore the hell out!
Yep, I bought a gallon of "paint for cars" clear, painted a roll pan on a truck, one year later it was cloudy. Used the rest of the clear to screw around doing flake and pearl spray outs. I don't suggest that brand.
Painted these a few weeks ago with catalyzed acrylic enamel / activated urethane clear. Started wet sanding and buffing this week. In order to keep the peace, I will not say what brand of enamel I used...
Painted the roof of my Dodge in my profile picture years ago with the same unnamed enamel and activated clear. Still looks as good as day 1 and it sits outside 24x7.
The Jalopy Journal
