I have 51 weeks to get my '28 RPU ready for next year's Shades of the Past. I have about everything I need except for my steering set up. I want to run cowl steering to my '40 brakes. Surprisingly, this wasn't in Tech-o-matic. Hard to believe as many times as we've hashed this out here on the HAMB. So, guys that have done it, what box did you use? How did you lengthen the pitman arm shaft (if needed)? Any advice and pictures will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, JH
Really, the easiest way is to call Schroeder Steering(Schreoder, it's late, can't remember...) and talk with them and order what you want. Maybe not the cheapest, but simple and safe. Sorry I don't have the phone. They build Sprint car and other types of steering gears. A word to the wise, don't try to cut corners on steering and brakes.
They don't have racer's swaps down there? We got em for the dirt racer's up here and there's always buyer beware quickchanges and steering boxes etc etc... I'd trust a used steering box to still look good after disassembly quicker than even thinking I'd get a perfectly straight and streetworthy rear end at one. Good idea Mitch, I'd been thinking to use a 60's Dodge truck box with a lengthened shaft to the arm.
Here's the cheap do it yourself method. I'm not sure what box I have it came from a swapmeet. Any box that the pitman arm hangs down on will work. We have a couple 40's GM boxes for future projects. To lengthen the pitman arm shaft we use a second shaft out of a junk box. You will use the pitman arm that fits the shaft from the junk box. Have the end of the pitman arm shaft out of the good box turned down and have the second shaft bored to fit tightly over the first shaft. Put the shaft from the good box back in the box before welding. Make sure you index the pitman arm before welding. There is a bearing block out close to the cowl. We have done 2 trucks like this and both work great. Both steer easily and don't have bumpsteer. I have heard the real sprint car boxes steer very hard. Clark
Sprint car steering last post 6/10/03 Try a search for the above thread. I tried to post a direct link to it but can't seem to. Anyway, it deals with some of the same issues as here...
Why bother with all of the through the cowl business? Put the box under the dash, hook up the bits, and punch a hole through the firewall. Seal it up with the same kind of boot you would use on a floor shifter. You might lose a little bit of steering to the left due to the angle of your drag link but no more than you would with a drag link hanging 3 or 4 inches outside your wishbone or hairpin. The trick is going to be getting the link to pass through my lovered hood side without looking dumb - I think I've got that worked out though.
SoWhat, I know you thrash the hell outta your special, but your mounting plate seems awfully thin for your box. You don't have any problems with flexing issues? Do you have another support plate at the cowl?
Nads...There's a bearing block at the cowl and that bracket is pretty beefy. There's no flex. I've heard of guys with cowl steering having a problem with the doors popping open when you turn the wheel. I've got a 1x2 tubing "cage under the cowl that everything is tied to. Clark PS if I'm still out of work I'm gonna try to make it to the Turkey Run.
I just got back from the shop. I made the bracket for the box to hang from tonight......AND took PICS! I am doing something similar to So-Whats. Same early GM box. When I get done in a couple days, I will post a how-I-did-it. Stay tuned.
I got the box hung tonight, all tacked in. I hope to post my pics tomorrow. I have the same box as LARRY.
OOps, here is the patterns for the 3/16 mount. The column drop is the stock one. The column is stainless steel tubing held to hte box with a set screw. I turned that Bell to mate up to the race car quick release. The pattern is matte board, nice and thick. I transferred it from matte to the sheet metal pattern you see (purple marks)
Here it is tacked into the car. I am going to add a couple more braces. There will be a package tray on top of the 2x2 cross brace. I got lucky with the box, I did not have to extend the sector shaft. I am using about a 13" wheel so I could mount the box close to the left side. Make sure when you find a box that there is a pitman arm!!!!! Mine had the remnants of one and that is fine, I cut off the stub and turned the splined end down on my lathe. This will get a custom length pitman welded to it (by aq pal that is certifield) when I geet the car rolling again.
Tman.... looking good. I made a custom pitman arm for mine too. Larry's steers great. Do you want us to measure the length of the arm for you? Did you get a year on what the box is out of? Clark
Tman, are you using the Tex Smith (I think) instructions? Custom Pitmann Arm Will the steering column still be lined up with the driver when you move it that far to the left? How did you modify the end of the steering shaft to accept the hub? Or did you cut the column in the middle and weld the two ends together?
Clark, I dont know the year, I found the box on top of a pile of scrap! As for the length, I am going to wait til the car is a roller and make the pitman arm to match. Jason, Yeah, I kinda got the idea from those instructions you posted. As for lining up with the driver, it works in my T due to several factors, one being the small wheel. As for the column end, I left the stainless outer column and inner shaft long til I am all done. I will cut them off then and pin the inner Quick release hub to the shaft. The shaft rides on a pressed in bearing in the end of the Stainless tube.
Clark, what did you cut your pitman out of? Was it flat or bent? beat' I will expand on your question about fit, right to left. Was in a hurry before. With my T and the angle the cowl tapers, I could mount this box with the 12" (I measured it tonight) wheel. Compared to a stocker we have in the shop, I have the same room between the door and the wheel. This car is also sans seat riser so I gain some elbow room by sitting down in it. I dont believe it wroks either, but I have measured/mocked up and just done it. Ergonomics are about the highest priority to me, I intend to drive this thing. It feels good with the seat foam in it going Vroom Vroom
Took this photo of Jeff's roadster's pitman arm at Bonniville this year. This is on that black '29 roadster with the Hallock windshield and the white artilery wheels. Really Clean! And the bezel around the pitman arm looks good too.
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