View attachment 4589544 I took my dash out to start re wiring the old hot rod T roadster I have and can’t identify what box they used to make this cowl steering setup work. It’s a power box uses a engine driven pump with a remote reservoir. The show card from the 60’s says Frankland steering box. The painter who painted it last in 1970 said the original owner ended up stealing a box off his sprint car to use on the roadster. Any help is appreciated. It’s a Power fork lift box
It was built originally in the 40’s as a track roadster with center steering cowl setup then it was built into a show car in the late 50’s when it was changed to this setup could the box be as early as the late 50’s
I also think it looks rather sketchy. I will show you a simpler, inexpensive alternate to the one you have - a mid-40s Ford pickup (Gemmer) box. It is non-power ***ist. Unless you are using large wide tires on wide wheels you will not need power in a car as light as this. I shortened the steering column shaft and extended the pitman arm / shaft.
You may also fine this cautionary discussion on cowl steering interesting and relevant: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cowl-steering-just-stop.1101046/
Education time please. I've read Pete Eastwood's thread about cowl steering and understand the issues. Other than the less than stellar welding, what issues do the naysayers see with this setup?
I think most people are shocked to see what an old hot rod looks like underneath the shine. While the welds look questionable there seems to be "good enough". It is an interesting use of old connecting rods.
Why does the "can you help" questions so often end up being opinions about how things look? Try building something from scratch with a Buzz Box Welder and 6011 or 7014 Rod and show us what you end up with.
70's T-bucket,that can be kind of cool again{going'ta take some real work},as for the box? Is steering box broken or rusted so it no longer moves in side? Do you wish to replace it? Sorry I don't know what it is made from,but there are a number of ways to skin a cat,some better then others. The builder made it work kind of,an you now have too decide on; Want to just make work again as bad as it did**** to just sell?,or make it work better to drive? Looking at your photos both here and when you got the "T"-,design was short on engineering an long on just make something work. Do you wish to drive it? As near as I can tell,all though it was in some shows,was not a mag. cover car or famous,so was a nice looking "T",but there were a good number fairly the same,as there was then an now being a cool style of hot rod T<= You can copy the style,with out the mistakes,so it could be fun to drive. Some handy facts to know, if replacing the design we see used;;**** Adding a longer then factory size pitman arm to any steering box=Adds a lot of free slop in to steering along with making car steer fast{ less turns of wheel}and hard to turn{can be over come by power steering,but ends up being less feel an even more sloppy}. In this "T"s pics from when you got it,,the front wheels are too wide an outward rim off set= high scrub that makes driving poor,darts with each bump adding too sloopy built in by its design.
There's a Frankland Racing Supply still in business. You could try contacting them to see if this is something from their history. (They are makers of a strong quick-change rear end for modern racecars these days.) Also, do a search on "Franklin Steering". (Note the spelling difference.)
here is a picture of the ch***is when it was changed from track roadster to show car in the late 50’s you can see the center cowl steering and looks to be same mounts with a different box
That's not really as bad as it could be. The connecting rods will bend before they break. If it were me I would pull the carpet and un bolt that contraption and see what the frame end welds look like. You could use a long sector steering box out of a 70's ford truck, 57 Chevy car or something similar. The extended support is a great idea, might nobwant to drill a hole for the speedo cable though. With some good studs in the top where the support bolts on and good strong welds on the frame connections you should be fine. Add some gussets as well.
The cowl steering has been in there a long time and has stood the trial by fire as a racecar set-up. You're the only one there who can judge how it feels and handles, and if it works for you. The rest of us just have opinions. Let us know what you find out about the box.
I have not drove the car myself yet I am replacing the wiring right now I have already gone thru the brakes and going to put a old running 355 sbc I have in it. The previous owner was running a blown sbc drag engine he had built for the car. He was known to do block long burn outs in it after every show and frequently took it out to speeds over 130 mph.