Technical CPP steering box

CPP has ALWAYS been questionable. Depends on what vendor they are using

 

Back before the days of 1-800 parts, I remember an article about something like this. They took the pitman arm that properly fit the box (Toyota?) and cut and turned the big end on a lathe until they had a sleeve. Then the pitman arm they wanted to use and bored it to fit the sleeve and welded in. It seems like this would be the best way to do this, as long as the welding was done properly.

Gary

 

I have done this. works well

 

Is the PA close enough that a few strokes on each internal spline with a small triangle shaped file would allow it to slide on far enough for correct engagement of the nut and washer?

 

I installed a 1989 Toyo 4X4 p/s box in my '55 F100, used a Chevy Delco power steering pump, Delco hoses.
Made my own bracket, used a Mid-Fifties F100 parts pitman arm.
Steering is effortless, but the short (6" c to c) P.A. makes the steering 6 turns lock to lock. (Grrr)
Seems like I have time for all the other things, but making a new P.A. like @saltflats just gets lower on the list!
Got my truck sideways in a long 'powerslide 'exhibition' (!) and had to spin my 3 spoke Bell wheel in a fervor to straighten it out!
Power steering is nice, but I need some more reaction! Short pitman arms are for street rods.

 

Still no response from CPP. The spline count is correct. There are no burs on the spines. I have heard back from people who have used a stock Toyota box and the Mid Fifty/CPP arm. The problem is apparently with the pitman arm. That could have been easily fixed in the beginning by requiring the company that did the machining of the PA to make it fit correctly. There are three major things wrong with the CPP kit (This is the same kit sold by Mid Fifty, Speedway, et al.) I
1. The most important problem IMHO is the lack of surface contact between the lock washer and the PA.
2. The machining of the PA splines is wrong. The angle appears to be correct but the diameter needs to be enlarged to allow the PA to engage the shaft properly
There are several ways to fix the problem.
1. Correct the diameter so the PA fits properly
2. Mill the nut face of the PA to accept a thick washer and a proper fastening device. That could be a nut and washer against a flat washer or a flanged nut.
3. Revise the recommendation to torque to 225 pounds. The correct torque from Toyota is 135. 225 galls the threads of the shaft.
4. The adapter plate needs to be thicker for the Ford application or a full thickness plate needs to be included with the Ford kit instead of the small .750 spacer that will eventually destroy the frame.
The bottom line is that a minimum of two threads past a nut of proper thickness and hardness needs to be accomplished when the job is done. I will stop posting until I get a locking nut that I like and have a spacer plate made. I also have thick washers coming from McMaster Carr and will probably machine a recess in the PA to accept the thick washers. Then I will be happy until the box itself goes south, which cheap Chinese junk usually does. Then I will be set up to replace it with an OEM Toyota box. It really pisses me off to pay big $ for this crap. What hurts the most is that I knew better and by the time I'm 90 I should be fully educated.