Technical Cracked crossmember

Went to straighten up my bent front crossmember for my 34 Ford. It cracked in the radius would u guys fix this or find a new one! I feel it could be repaired. I marked how long it's cracked

 

Blast it clean and put a GOOD weld to it. The weld will be stronger than the rest of it.

 

I V'ed mine out and welded it up...never had a problem...

 

I know what i would do. Blas*** , drill a hole at the end of the crack and dress it for welding

 

I agree with the majority,weld it and forget it. HRP

 

Well I'd weld it if I new why it got bent and that it wasn't still tweaked.

 

they do wonderful things with welding these days.

 

Stop drill it at the end of the crack (s) as bct suggested and V it out before welding as Dudley32 and lay a nice bead on it.

 

JB WELD.
(Just kidding. Weld it)
I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack, cut through the length of the crack with a die grinder and cutting wheel, clean the area really good and then weld it both sides.
Then finish grind to good as new.

 

That is what I did on my Model A front crossmember. Actually, that was the replacement crossmember for the one that was really bad. After welding I riveted it back in place.

 

34 crossmembers usually crack in the center around the spring mount. Be sure to check for stress cracks there too while you have it on the welding table. Welding that up will be cheaper and quicker than finding a suitable replacement.

 

Drill the endt, V it out and weld it. Did the very same thing on my rear crossmember

 

Blast it and TIG weld it. The TIG will soften the surrounding area rather than harden it like a MIG weld would. No need to drill the end of the crack. And if you are good, you can possibly fuse the crack without much new rod at all, and a little grinding and it won't show.

 

Take a torch and heat it to find the end of the crack, drill the end of the crack out then weld it ending at the hole filling the whole last.

yes I would weld it and run it.

 

On the other hand... I think Ch***is Engineering sells new ones for under 100 bux.
The original is over 80 years old and has obviously suffered during its life. Just saying, since you have it out of the car anyway if you're gonna put any power in the engine, any more weight on the front end and drive the car I would think about a new one.

 

Sand blast clean using Green Diamond sand with a ground wire attached. When done use cold rolled steel grinding dust and magna flux it. After crack is found, use a cut off wheel and V out the crack, then put cross member in oven a 500 degrees for 1 hour, let cool in the oven. When it's cool set in the corner of the shop approx. 10 inches off the ground for two weeks next to a jug of bleach and a jug of muratic acid to scare away any remaining crack gremlins who survived the afore mentioned process. Set the cross member on the bench and tig weld.

Or you could just V it out, tig, grind/detail and be done with it.

 

Ya had me going till this part

 

Should you also chant the secret chant?

 

Crack be gone for ever as I weld you in, got to keep the Henry tin...

 

Just float it out with some Bondo and throw some paint on it. It'll be fine.