crazy slow speed death wobble

certainly not gonna die, but those mailboxes i was shaking past could. i pulled a bit more toe in but still the same. lets hope the spindles and less caster do it.

 

What do we have to do start a deathwobble forum?

The first Read the last series of posts on Death wobble completely. This how it goes,

Wobble at low speed with a beam axle is 9-10 times caused by either excessive caster , low king pin bushing resistance or loose parts. In plain terms this means that if you run too much caster the thing is going to flap like a bird as the spindle tries to center it self or until it runs out of energy or the resistance to rotation become to high. This means 4-7* maximum caster, more doesn't improve the handling.
You say you have 9* that tooo much because it increases even more as the axle rotates during bump.

Second, if you have loose king pin bushings, the tight tolerance king pin fit produces drag on the spindle to slow the rotation of the spindle on the pin to prevent over rotation at lesser caster angles, so sloppy king pins can cause this. This makes it important that you have the king pins bushed and honed or reamed to a true center not using a brake hone to due one side at a time and hoping that they are on center. A set of stock bushed spindles work perfectly fine if you just do a little maintenance now and then by greasing them.

The last thing is that all parts including the steering box are free of excessive play. If some thing especially in the steering is loose its going to cause a wiggle.

Now to prevent being repe***ive go back to the last Death wobble post and find the posts to the thread that I made about squaring your ch***is and do that also. If you do not know which way your wheels are pointing it doesn't help either.

This is basic I beam stuff starting points 4-7* caster, axle tipped rearward not tipped froward. 1/8" toe in Maximum, none of this 1/4" in or out **** unless you want to purchase tires every 3 months.

You have a big enough problem now with the backward tie rod making the outer tire scuff a smaller radius than the inner during cornering.

Your camber is fixed by the axle and the spindles, it can be slightly adjusted but it should be about 1* positive to 0, meaning the tops of the tires point outward from the center of the vehicle.

Let us know what you find out after you make adjustments.