Split wishbone. But use a Ford pivot ball on the end of each side. Can it be done? Has it already been done?
The main area of binding occurs where the split bones connect to the axle. That's where most failures occur. If you can make that a flexible ***embly, then you are headed in the right direction. But there is an easy way to achieve the necessary compliance; join the split bones using one Ford pivot ball in front. Then the whole axle/bone ***embly will pivot on that ball and can articulate as Henry desired it to. Here's a picture to explain how I did it. To help illustrate it further, take a paper clip and reshape it into a U to simulate the axle and split bones. Press the open ends onto your thumb and index finger to simulate a flexible ball end, heim end, or whatever type of rotating end. Now use your other hand to simulate the action of driving over a bump. See where the resistance occurs? At the axle/bone connection.
Some of the early sprint cars use a device very similar to this. Ask Pete Eastwood. He's on here. He's probably the most knowledgable person I've ever met when it comes to 'early racing tech', him being a highly qualified restorer of many early examples. I remember seeing some cast bronze plates and covers for this purpose that he had cast. I've thought the same thing, because actually it's more compact and hardier than tie rod ends, or heim joints. Pete and Jakes did me a one off piece for a '37, that P-Wood worked on, that used one of their tubular ends and mircoflex bushings to split the bones. No complaints on my part and I drove it a bit, cross country and around LA before I sold it. Anything is possible if you're willing to figure out how to make it work. Keep us posted on the outcome. CE
Ford tractors and MF tractors had them for years. Both had neat mounting brackets that you can attach to your frame. Traditional? they started with them in '39!
Here is a pic of front bones with a chunk of the yoke used as well as the ball, could help with clearance issues....cool. Also here is a i-beam style tractor radius rod, they work fine too with a littel re-work at the front clevis mount, also a pic of the ball mounting cups.
Take a look in the "period correct 32-34 ch***is thread" that just got moved to the hot rod section. There is a Cal car, a sedan, that had those on front split bones...I THINK unfortunately it was all cut off and went back to conventional. There are a bunch of pics on the old pieces.