I think you need to add pictures to your add. No one responds to a car add without pictures. Really nice car by the way.
Josh Shaw did an article in one of the mags a long time ago. He’s not active here anymore but is on Instagram, I’ll see if I can find the magazine and month it’s in for you if you’re not on IG to ask him questions
Haven't found it yet but while searching found a thread he did here on how he and his dad do it. Looks like some pictures also remain thankfully https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-w-pics-not-the-worn-brush-paint-type.264512/
Just for confirmation I have no intention of ruining the paint on the body. Took over 90 years to get it that way.
We sometimes tend to be too critical of another's wants, needs, or intentions, not to be a coach, or priest by any means but consider the individuals desired end result & a bit of fun with it along the way in perhaps what may be a new direction from past projects.
Good man. 90 years to get it that way...... And 90 seconds to **** it up. Not sure really what you're thinking then ? But, my question doesn't matter. It's yours to do what ever you want to do to make you happy. You want to see Patina - here is virgin Patina...... I have had many high dollar cars in my life, but my old 48 Merc was the poster child for Patina that couldn't be duplicated and everyone drooled over.. Should have kept it and **** canned the flat head and put in a SBF for reliability sakes. A/C was the holes in the firewall and the floor boards. It don't get any more Traditional than this one fellas. I should have kept it.
I don’t think anyone got the impression you were doing anything other than trying to get the new parts - hood grill -to match the existing body? Edit I guess Cob missed that information.
I went back and looked and I get what the thought is. Million dollar question.... add body parts and try to make them look like they are 90 years old with out ****ing it up. Man...... matching Patina without it looking staged is tough. But, whatever makes the owner happy is all that matters.
That’s what one of my replies mentioned. Then I saw the pics, and completely understand the question now. Those pics were worth 2000 words Edit: but that said, unless someone is looking for an actual patina body, I stand by selling it as is, instead of work/$$ required to match things up.
If Ken from the Rolling Bones was still with us he could make the new sheet metal match the original paint perfectly or point me in the right direction. He was a master artist on not only sheet metal but canvas. Problem would be mute if I made it a highboy. I'd only have to worry about the hood and rails.
This ‘46 coupe of mine went from patina to decent driver. I don’t regret it! The ‘50 is just a fun beater that will get a paint job when the time comes.
Some guys will layer different colors of paint to simulate the weathered look but, to me that looks too fake. When matching patch panels, new fenders, etc. to a finish with some history I like to study the finish and listen to the story of how it got that way. Then just duplicate and accelerate that process. I currently have Chris Magee’s 32 5 window in the shop and we did just that. The bottom ten inches of the bottom of the body was rusted away and some of the fenders, the hood, the grille shell and other ***orted bits were from different cars with different finishes. Studying the patina’d parts told me that there’s black on the metal, some odd red oxide over that, and finally a maroon top coat. Since the body and parts have been kicked around for a few decades, no attempt was made to make any of the parts perfect. Little dings and layers of chipped paint fits in fine. First we paint all of the replacement parts and patches with SP black epoxy primer. Next up we splatter a little runny rubbing compound here and there with a paint brush. For larger scars we stick randomly shaped pieces of masking tape here and there. Next up we mix some SP red oxide epoxy primer. We used small amounts of white, gray, and black until we got the color pretty close to what we observed on the car. After spraying this, we did the splatter and tape thing again. Finally we took a piece of the car (I think it was the panel below the trunk lid) to the paint store to get a color match in Omni base coat. This was sprayed a the final coat. Once the paint was dry we picked off the bits of tape and hit the parts with heavy cut rubbing compound. Some areas also needed a little attention with steel wool to tone down the sheen and make the finish match the car. We also scratched the newly painted areas with a variety of tools and things around the shop to make them "fit in".
BUILD IT! Before final ***embly and before bolting the body down, paint, undercoat, or somehow deal with the bottom side and firewall. Worry about putting patina on the new metal after you are driving it! If the new metal areas are small I would suggest using spray cans of the appropriate colors. Make sure to use a darker, brownish primer color…NOT THE MODERN LOOKING BRIGHT ORANGE that is so prevalent. Probably use lacquer paint. Get some gloss paint on there for rust prevention…and if it looks too shiny, put a little flat black or primer over it. Many light coats is better than thick ones. Between polishing compound and fine sandpaper keep playing with it. If it doesn’t look quite right, you might want to use some lacquer thinner and wipe it some or dab the rag, or wipe most of it off, then spray some more light coats….even fogging the gloss and the flat at the same time. You want it to look like basically ****ty paint, that doesn’t stand out, but just sort of blends in.
I wouldn’t worry about trying to match the old stuff. I’d do like the low bucks guys would have done back in the day, shoot some dark red oxide primer on the grille shell and hood and leave it alone. Folks would know the parts had been replaced, and the guy was probably waiting until he got the money for a full paint job. Lots of cars ran primed sections until all the bodywork was finished, ever how long it took.
Street rodder November 2003 if anyone has it has the Shaw step by step. It’s missing in my collection but I bet @Tman has it
I keep meaning to inventory it to find the holes in the collection but haven't got to it between life and more life lol
that bumper doesnt look right.... chrome comes off in pieces, not patchy. if he put rust on the top, and very heavy, it would look more like chrome rust.
The Jalopy Journal
