Anyone ever try one on a 38-47 Ford Coe? I know it would have to be narrowed (anyone know how much narrower) and rack mounts moved. Any other problems, other than welding the aluminum?
The only experience I have is a friend put one under a late 80s Ford pick-up. It fit nicely there, but he ran out of money and sold the project before it was roadworthy, so I don't know how it turned out. If you compare late 80s Ford track width to yours, it will give you an idea of what the width difference is. I personally shy away from altering the width of modern IFSs, seen too many geometry problems.
"I personally shy away from altering the width of modern IFSs, seen too many geometry problems." I have been reading up on it and it does seem that there are a lot of problems with it. Some seem to think it isn't that big of a deal for a driver but others act like it will kill you the first time you drive it.
The rack width has to correspond to the narrowed suspension, or you will get bump steer, how is that going to be accomplished? I've driven narrowed stuff and although the owner told me how great it handled, I had trouble holding it on the road at 50 MPH, the bump steer was so bad. (This was a Cordoba suspension under a 34 Dodge with a Mustang rack. If he could have narrowed the rack so the inner tierod joints matched the inner A arm pivots, he would have been golden.) I would look around for something that was close enough to the right width, so wheel offset would get the tires in the right place. On my Autocar, a 97 Dodge dually front axle came close enough so I can make it work by modifying the fenders, that makes my front suspension bone stock Dodge (straight axle) coupled to an IH medium duty steering box. I wouldn't overlook the stock Ford axle with some modifications for modern hubs and brakes. They have become maligned by some, but a straight axle can be made to ride good and handle well with the right springs and shocks.
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