Myself i am not really great at transmissions so i need a hand from a******* guru. I have a 60 bird with a cruise-o-matic tranmission. I had to pull the engine to do a little work on her. Before the engine was pulled the transmission was shifting and pulling just fine. While the trans was out i installed a new front pump seal around the torque converter due to a small leak. I drained the torque converter and transmission and replaced the fluid with freash f type. While out testing the car after reinstalling the trans I am having problem that seem to keep growing worse of the trans slipping when taking off in 1st and reverse. I dropped the pan and cleaned the metal mesh filter. The filter was very clean as well as the inside of the pan. When i pulled the engine i made sure not to knock any of the linkage out of adjustment. I have even came to the point to sliding the tranmission back off the engine and checking to make sure the converter was torqued and not lose at all on the flexplate. I plan on doing a pressure test tonight and see whats going on around there. The bird has to 1/8" line that runs from the rear port on the engine up and bolts to the back of the engine with a port there to test the pressures. my book says that it should be running at idle pressure around 56-72 lbs and a 1000 rpm pressure around 80-85 lbs. While at idle if i open the cap and and depress the test valve ( it looks like a tire valve) it doesnt seem to have the pressure that it should. I would figure that pressing the valve at idle with the ideal pressure of 56-72 lbs that it would just spray like a cut jugluar vien. It trickeled out. So where do i go from here? In the trouble shooting section in my bird bible it says thats the causes i need to look into are Fluid Level, Throttle Linkage, rear Band, Preform a pressure test, Pressure Regulator, Valve Body and Rear Servo, i can do a rear servo air test but i am not sure how to test the rear band. HELP! before i lose the rest of my hair...
I'm having trouble with mine too. It shifts fine when warm, but it takes exactly 2.5 miles for it to shift to 3rd cold. May look into a AOD, at some point.
try the squarebirds.org site or the squarebirds group on yahoo or email Mr Draxler from the thunderbirdranch.net to get another view on things.
Thanks Shifts What type of other info would you need? Are there any test i should run to dial in the problem area?
Make sure your fluid level is correct. Did the converter spline in good when you reinstalled the converter? If it was not lined up correctly and everything was finished up and tightened, the converter will wear out the pump with the first crank of the engine and as you rev it up it will just wear it out faster and faster. Hope this helps.
ive got a 64 bird and just went thru it...it also has the late 2-3 shift when cold now. you may have disturbed some debris when you had it apart. those valves need to be sanitary or it will give you fits. some one told me you can put a t-350 together in a sandbox and it will work but those old t-converters are full of junk that will cause that problem. ford*******s must be CLEAN. to work right . try FORD TRANSMISSION FORUM. jay broder performance transmissions for help.
There is a such thing as "washout". Take a******* that has not had regular service performed and then suddenly decide to do fluid/filter change you wash out friction material floating around that was actually good for its operation. Either keep it serviced on a schedule from time of new or rebuild like the manual recommends, or don't do it at all.
I'm having problems as well, have to manually shift mine through all the gears. I know some of the cruise-o-matics would start in second gear unless youy pulled them own to the second shifter detent. I'm running a Lokar shifter with mine and the linkage all seems to be right on. Whatever gear you put mine in it stays in. If you just start off in the first detent position it takes off in third gear. Second starts & stays in second, etc. It seems to shift OK manually though. My only thoughts are that maybe this trans had been converted to a full manual valve body, but it doesn't shift 'hard' enough that I would feel that someone modified it. When I got the truck it wasn't operable so I'm not sure what the deal is. Didn't mean to hijack your thread RoadDevil!!
i would double check the adjustment on your kick down rod to the carb/throttle linkage. they are very touchy and need to be set correctly
Have you re-checked the fluid level ? I did a C-O-M rebuild on a 62 bird many many years ago, and it essentially "air-locked" somewhere in the control body, took a long time to purge. When it finally "burped", it dropped the fluid level almost 2 quarts. Could never figure out how that could be.
i wast able to go and check it out last night i had to deal with some other business, The torque the splines all looked good and when it was reinstalled it felt correct. When i reinstalled the fluid the last time my book says the trans when dry holds 10 quarts. Add 5 let it warm up and add the other 5. When i did this it looked to be a touch overfull. I havent really ran it like that but just something i noticed.. This whole deal is odd since before she was shifting and pulling like a champ.
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