Technical Cured My Flathead’s Occasional Overheating (The Hard Way)!. Updated 1-30

Well, not much accomplished these last few days except exhaust work, but still important.

Cancelled plans to go to Louisville since car wasn’t ready. Hate missing old friends but with my bad knees there wouldn’t be much walking.

So I spent two days taking my wife to Nashville for grand daughter’s wedding shower. Left her there and came back today. Joy.

I got the passenger side exhaust connector cut and tacked. Of course there’s nothing simple or easy on this.
The exhaust is welded solid all the way to the back, even at the slip joints! Obviously no plan to EVER take it out or apart without surgery!
I came up with idea of sliding the whole thing back enough to get this piece in but the last hanger is inaccessible and uses a carriage bolt instead of a hex bolt, so the whole thing just spins and the nut won’t come off. Can’t even get to it to cut it. The middle hanger is bolted through the trunk floor instead of to the frame or x-member, so you have to climb up into the trunk, pull up the carpet, lock the nut down, climb back out, raise the car back up and loosen the bolt! Whew!!
I managed to get the pipe pushed back 1/2” by bending that rear hanger and the new connector finally slid in place.
The guy that did the exhaust must be the same guy that did the wiring! I’m jinxed on this.
The car just needed a flathead put back in it!

Anyhow, here’s the “easy” side. The driver side will be even more of an “opportunity”.
Used a late model starter and have an inch of clearance. May still wrap the pipe. We’ll see.
Yeah that bolt is too long!

 

Good for you - glad you got things back together!

 

Thanks, Tom! I look to you for inspiration. You’ve really overcome some challenges.

 

Thanks for the compliment. Yes, we all have our share of challenges during a build, car related or not. Just a temporary roadblock is all it is. One way or another, we all get ‘er done that’s for sure!

 

I didn't want to say it but since you did....

Dave

 

@dwollam Yeah, it would have saved a lot of anguish and work. I do have one in my 32. One’s enough for now.

 

I found this (I think) gear reduction 5.7 stock starter I had ferreted away. If it works, it gives me an additional inch of clearance at the front. It has the staggered holes for 165 flywheel.
What say you?

 

Any port in a storm as they say!

 

Do you know what the original application was? Or the part #? I'm using a tri-five starter and it's a big heavy thing...does work ok though.

Rich

 

Those small starters work great.I put them in every customer car that needs the starter fixed or rebuilt. They never need shimming, and they crank anything over. I usually get one for a 2000 Chevy truck with AV8.

 

Thanks! It sure makes a difference with the clearance issue.
No numbers on this one that I can find.
I’ve had it so long I can’t remember what the PO said it came off of.
If it doesn’t work right, I’ll get a new one.

 

Thanks Brian!

 

A little progress from a LOT of work!
I got the snakey(?) driver side C-10 exhaust manifold pipe tacked together after umpteen in and out trial fits, measurements and cuts. What a PITA!
Just so glad that I have a lift!
Now to weld it up WITHOUT blowing a hole in it! WHEW!
Still have to fight sliding the PO’s solid welded exhaust back to join up the new with the old like the other side.

 

Where's the flange?

 

It might slide on around those bends, fingers crossed. Or, using a 2 piece bolt together one. Nice catch, @Bandit Billy .

 

Just didn’t show it. It uses the stock Chevy three bolt clamp with a donut.
It slides on just fine, had it bolted up many times during the fit up and cutting.
Looks like the one on the other side.

 

Here’s the snake mocked up.
Necessary when using the C-10 RH manifold on the LH side. You can just see the stock donut clamp at top right.
Probably should have used the SBC 265’s I have but the ports are small. Don’t know if this doesn’t have its shortcomings as well. Close to the box and oil filter. I now need to heat and add a little clearance between the pitman arm and the tie rod end on the draglink. Tight at left turn full lock! Plus it’s at a pretty steep angle with the dropped CE steering arms.

 

Maybe you can use some of the heat wrap I used with my closeness to the pb reservoir and tranny pan and lines on my build. 108 degree temps and no issues …..

 

Yes, It will probably need it. There is certainly a lot to chose from. Any recommendations?

 

What I thought I would use was a wrap but doing that on the car would have been too difficult. I ended up using s sleeve with built in straps that I faced between the exhaust pipe and the area I needed to stay cool. I am guessing they were about a foot or more long but anything too long would be difficult to install. It was somewhat flexible for curves and the highest heat protection I could find, tight weave and orange in color. Here are pics from my build thread - check the thread as I think I mention the source - can’t remember it at the moment - Speedway race stuff maybe?




I used their clamps and big hose clamps to keep them snug to the exh pipe. Watch the clamps they provide - they can slice you up!

 

I used DEI wrap on my 40 in the same area, put it on before installing the pipe on the car. Tom is right about those clamps, they bite!

 

Thanks, guys!
Looking at DEI on Summit gets confusing with many choices.
Looks like they make an oil filter sleeve also.

 

Very little, but needed progress. Life got in the way.

Got the pitman arm tweaked and dropped.
Drag link is now parallel to the tie rod.
Plus added clearance with the new exhaust.



Cleaned up some old pipe wrench marks from an old adjustment and got some primer and paint on it. Done.

 

As I mentioned, I got the draglink running parallel to the tierod.
Not so fast there, bud.
Did a sweep check and the pitman arm rotated over until it hit the radius rod. What the h**l?
No steering stops on the kingpin locks!
No wonder the tires rubbed the fenders before.
I have some, so we’ll see what that does for turning radius and clearance.
It’s never ending.

 

Finally got a little time and put the OE spindle stops on the kingpin locks. Those must be aftermarket spindles, no dimple recess for the stop to hit. Yeah, I know, it’s dirty. That’s last.


Welded up, finished off and painted the exhaust connector pipes. Productive Labor Day.
Closer to making noise.

 

Still pecking away at it.

Got the new left side C10 exhaust manifold slicked down, painted and bolted back on for last (?) time.

Got missing square cage nuts installed in the floor. Of course there was a glitch. They wouldn’t compress enough to snap in to the holes so a little square file work made it right.

Got the ordered DEI heat sleeve in. This slides over the new pipes (instead of wrap) and reduces heat radiating to the starter, oil filter and steering box.

Got the clutch adjusted to Ford spec for pedal free play and throw out bearing. What a PITA.

Tied up some of the snakes nest of under dash wiring mess. Another PITA!

Pictures maybe later.

I’m down to the short list hopefully.

 

Took some time off to celebrate the wife’s birthday, but after yard work today finished up the floor screw hole repairs, got the floor back in, moved and installed a new dimmer switch, cleaned off the layers of dried spray adhesive the PO had glued the jute down with, and fitted a new shifter boot to cover the hole in the tunnel. There was just the carpet before.
Too bad those solid walnut floor boards get covered up.
No cheap plywood for Fatso’s floors!





More quality? Since you asked, there’s plenty.
Here’s the fuse panel. Notice the absence of circuit ID and the $22 price sticker.. Quite the deal.
Redo planned for this winter. Already bought a Rebel harness.

 

Even THIS looks better!

“Hey, Jute, don’t let me down….nana, na na,”
For you old guys. Apologies to the Fab Four: John, Paul, George, & Ringo

 

Spent way too much time trying to reroute two plug wires to clear the C-10 exhaust.
NOT the same as the straight rams horn, which they were cut to fit!
Got the sleeve insulation on the curved pipe and got it installed (for good!).
Hope that it works as advertised. It’s not cheap!
Thank God for a lift!

 

Got the other side pipe sleeved and installed.
Got the FUBAB exhaust system back in place..
Got the ground cables run from the battery to the frame and starter bolt to frame.
Got the new steering box centered and the pitman arm and draglink back on.


Actually, I now have a written short list. Check, check, check.
Trying to touch all the bases before I hook up the juice.