Technical Cured My Flathead’s Occasional Overheating (The Hard Way)!. Updated 1-30

With the lift back in working order, I was so over joyed I decided to tackle the mystery clutch issue and dove in.

First job was to pull the toe boards and trans cover. Of course, it was a PITA; the carpet was glued to the jute, and the jute was glued to the FAT MAT sound deadener, which was stuck to the floor. Plus it all was one piece from the firewall all the way back to the trunk divider. Plus the firewall edge was glued to the vertical piece that was glued to the firewall. FUBAB! Took a couple hours to get it all separated and pulled back to the seat. The carpet was so over glued in spots it tore through the backing.
More FUBAB!

Toe boards were held down with a mixture of correct slot head bolts, hex bolts, and buggered out holes with no bolts. Finally got them all loose and pulled out. Two were beneath the heater and were a real bugger!

Next came the trans cover. More FUBAB!
The two top bolts were hex and had hex nuts on the underside, which were inaccessible with the engine in!
Finally got one out, but the other has a Nyloc lock nut and of course will not come apart, just spin.
Maybe tomorrow get my neighbor over, and raise the car on the lift.
One guy attack the lock nut from underneath and one the bolt from inside. We’ll see.

This is BS! Four plus hours to do what should have been an hour!
It’s never ending with this car and the things done half ass.
Guess that’s hot rodding.

Rant over, for now.
At least it will go back together correctly for the next guy.

 

As reported, I got the trans cover down to the one remaining bolt with a Nyloc nut underneath. Top right in the pic.

Tried every wrench I had, with every contortion my body could endure, but COULD NOT reach the lock nut from underneath, with it on the lift, nor going through the toe board opening.
Just not enough room with the engine in place.
Tried a drill but not enough room with the heater in place. Couldn’t even see it from above!

Time to quit struggling and get out the big guns! Desperate times call for desperate measures! The die grinder and burr made quick work of the offending hex head of the bolt and VOILA’, the cover was now free!




Some cleanup required of the chips, but at least everything stayed cool so I didn’t burn the car and shop down. Those are shadows in the pic. Whew!


Add this little SOB to the trophy case!


Next: pull the inspection cover on the trans and see what is (or isn’t) happening with the Ft. Wayne clutch. Stay toon’d for more fun filled engine swap escapades!

 

I think I have the no clutch action thing sorted out.
Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-to-early-ford-trans-help-update-4-4.1311481/

Pulled the inspection cover off and the TO bearing was 1/2” away from the PP fingers with the pedal all the way down!
I adjusted the linkage all the way out but still had a gap. Linkage rod was too short for any more adjustment.
Pulled it out and found that it was only 4” long plus the eye was egg shaped!
Ordered a new 5” rod and pivot pin from ThirdGen and hopefully this will end this drama.
Who says an extra inch isn’t good!

Anybody have a source for the SQUARE clinch nuts used in the 40 floor ? (last pic). I can find D shaped but not square.
Thanks!

 

Following along, good luck.

 

Forgive me for asking,,,,but what is FUBAB ?
I’ve heard of Fubar before ,,,but what’s the last b for ?

Tommy

 

Bingo, we have a winner!

 

Still fiddling with small stuff while I’m waiting impatiently for clutch rod to be shipped from ThirdGen.
But a little progress goes a long way.

Got some flexible heater duct hose to mock up the exhaust connectors from rams horns to existing pipes.

Didn’t like the cumbersome looking alternator arm, so I took it off. Found the previously hidden Heim turnbuckle adjuster that was made for the mount and WHATTA YA KNOW, it works and clears the hose.

 

Well at least this fits! Plus it gives the illusion of progress.
NOS from Vern’s that I was saving for a rainy day.
The pickup radiator has a thicker core in it if I need to switch for AC.
We’ll see.

Better get some cardboard on it before it gets a ding.

 

Well, finally got the longer replacement clutch adjustment rod in from ThirdGen.
You can see the obvious extra length, as well as the worn eye in the OE 40 rod.

What a PITA to install. In, out, multiple times (6) trying to get the length right.
The less free play the harder it was to get the two pins through the clevis’s eyes.
Finally got the TO bearing close to the PP fingers, just one more adjustment to get pedal height on the money.
Maybe. Tomorrow.


On a lighter, more joyful note, this is probably the only 40 with furniture grade walnut floor boards!
Solid, 3/4 inch! Go figure.
“Pardon me, do you have any Grey Poupon?”



Got the little square caged nuts in also, for the holes in the floor for the trans cover.

Also got the radiator hoses in.
Top one falls into place but the bottom one hits the crossmember diagonal brace.
More die grinder opportunities.

Stay tooned for more thrilling escapades on this screaming carnival ride of an engine swap!

 

Well, whatta ya know!!
Got the new clutch linkage rod installed, and after only two attempts, got it adjusted!!!!
Might need one more turn on the threads, but that can wait until it’s running and worn in.
HALLELUJAH!! A big milestone!

 

Howdy Boys! Long time, no see.

I’ve spent the last month up on a scaffold repairing some log decay on my house.
Every day, except rain days when I could get in the shop.
Did get a few things done, actually.

First thing the compressor motor quit, so I had to pull the heavy lump and take it to the motor repair shop. Got it back after a week, installed it and it did nothing. Found that they had paired some wires in the starter box wrong, so got that sorted and we have air again.
At least I didn’t have to pull it off again and return it. Whew!

I had to remove the stock V yoke that supports the inner fender panels as it hit the lower radiator hose. Didn’t have time to make anything, so Dale at Weedetr sent me a pair of his custom ones. Drilled a couple holes and they were in. Of course the wiring terminal that fit before didn’t with the new support, so I had to make a little mounting plate to move it over. Couldn’t lengthen the wires!


I got that done and found that the lower hose was now hitting the angled gusset between the front crossmember and frame. Had to relieve it for clearance.


I had a new Stewart aluminum water pump, so now was the time to swap it out with the painted iron one. After getting it installed, the ALT bracket wouldn’t line back up due to a difference in the mounting bosses. WTH?!?!
Back on with the iron stock pump for now.


I sliced and diced the stock 40 battery tray so I could use it in the stock location with the new Odyssey battery.
Fits great and gives me the clearance needed for the ram’s horn exhaust and the valve cover. Didn’t want to have it behind the seat or in the trunk. That sounded like more work to me. Probably not, looking back.


Decided that it would be a good time to install the stock fan and cut out the Walker fan shroud I had held on to for years.
Of course, the fan hits the upper hose! It’s 17”.
Should have caught that earlier.
Looks like others on here simply raised the radiator for clearance.. Too much. Will try a 15”.
I’ll try that first. Easy, right? We’ll see.

 

Back as time permits.
Made up some 1-1/2” spacers to raise the radiator, and ordered a 15” Derale steel 6 blade fan which should be here Thursday. The one in the picture was borrowed from the Desoto in the pickup for mockup. It goes back on it. (3/4” shaft).
Loomed and secured the wiring for the lights from the relocated terminal block for the final time.
Got the shroud opening laid out and ready to cut. Once hopefully.
When the fan gets here, the shroud and radiator will go in for what I hope is the final time!

Next on the list: finish connecting the battery, ignition and engine wiring.
VROOM, VROOM.

 

You keep chipping away at it - it’s getting there!

 

Too hot for outside work today!
The new Derale fan came in so that got installed. Of course, bolts were wrong so ANOTHER TRIP TO THE PARTS STORE!


Made up a simple trammel out of scrap to scribe the diameter needed for the fan hole in the shroud, after transferring the pulley hub center to the shroud. Made a cardboard pattern, taped on the radiator, and measured, measured, measured.
Ready to cut, but no saber saw blades! WTF! AAARGH!

 

Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road.

 

Thanks!
Yeah, me too!
Seems to be taking forever.
Seemingly small issues morph into real PITA’s.
Holding up other projects I need to be working on.

 

Too late now.
Cut out the fan hole in the shroud!

Used my saber saw with a new blade.
Found out after one lap around that if you stop, the blade gets hot enough to fuse the plastic back together in spots.
My saw is not variable speed, so it took a coarser blade and another lap around. Just have to keep it moving.
Just needs some sander roll action to clean up the rough edge.

 

Well, how about that!!
It fits. Woohoo!
Couldn’t stand it, so one last in and out with the radiator, now with the shroud clamped in place.still needs to come out and drill the screw attaching holes.

I cleaned up the rough cut edge with a burr, followed by a sanding drum followed by a Scotchbrite drum. A little carb cleaner on a rag took care of the scratches and polished the edge to a sheen. It’s some kind of plastic, fwiw.

 

We had a couple of days of cooler weather, so I had to work outside.
Then the shop AC went out. The big shop fan was rolled in to service, but just isn’t the same.
I know, I’m a whining, spoiled old man. The humidity is just too much.

I’ve been finalizing, tidying up and routing the under hood wiring.
I also had to pull the radiator and shroud back out for clearance getting back to the firewall .
I also decided to go ahead and mount an early Ford type starter solenoid to alleviate any future SBC hot start problems.
I smoothed down the old crusty ram’s horn exhaust manifold, blasted it and coated it in some Rustoleum black high temp.
I also ran mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauges to verify the electric Classic Instruments, just in case.
Plus the SW’s are way easier to read. The CI’s are way too small.
Not worthy of pics, but another couple of necessary things checked off.
Next, battery cables.
Stay ‘tooned.

 

Well, finally got something done.

Shop AC quit, as I said, but then ran for a day, then quit again!
Had to pull it out and take to the AC guy last Monday. He called today and said that he could find NOTHING wrong! Ran it for a couple of hours, stopped and started numerous times, NOTHING!
I’m thinking it’s in the touch pad control panel. Modern junk!
Yeah, I’m spoiled. I’ve had AC in the shop for 18 years! It’s all about the humidity.
I know: WAAWAA !

I had decided to use a Ford type solenoid in case I get Chevy hot start issues later on. It wouldn’t go back where it was with the flathead as the SBC valve cover interfered. Found just enough room on the firewall, outboard of the heater fittings.

I also decided to add a fuse for the under dash feed, due to the sketchy wiring job. The old solenoid hole spacing was too wide for the fuse holder so I fabbed up this simple offset bracket to mount it, move it up and over, and hold it away from the firewall to clear the fuse holder’s mounting . Getting painted to match the firewall.


Just have to add the battery cables and we’re ready to connect the exhaust.

 

Not much to report. Bolted on exhaust manifolds for last time. Ran the + battery cables to the Ford solenoid and to the Chevy. Need to straighten out the plug wires. They’re too long now.
Finalized some more underhood wiring.
still have to change out the light switch which is going to require diving into the snake’s nest behind the dash. I wil be glad when I can rip ALL of that mess out and install my new one!

Well !&&@! Managed to drop a small wrench into the clutch through the open clutch inspection hole while working under the dash!!
It’s never ending!
(Update: got it out 7/29!! See below)

 

The truck is fighting back for the SBC.

 

It’s part of the great flathead conspiracy!
FWIW, It’s a little 3/8” box end that I was using to remove a wiring ground clamp from the Sparky’s great under dash wiring job. It was in the way where I needed to mount my oil and temp gauges.
Hopefully I can pull the starter and get to it through that opening with a flexible, long reach magnet. If it didn’t drop to the bottom, maybe from the inspection hole. Oh joy!

 

The way us Model A guys do it is to put a strong magnet on the flywheel and rotate turning the engine over with the crank
Good luck

 

Thanks for the tip. I tried the long flexible magnet down the inspection hole and it got hung up and wouldn’t pull out.
Panic time; but finally got the magnet out, just no wrench.
More opportunities!

 

Spent a couple of lovely hours today laying on the seat and working on the FUBAB under dash wiring. Decided to replace both the ignition switch and to move and replace the headlight switch, which was jammed vertically into the lower dash flange below the left ashtray.
Just another example of the wiring job from hell.
I found shrink tubing OVER crimped terminals WITH the plastic insulator still on!

The new STANDARD ignition switch threaded neck was bigger than the old one, so I had to file out the hole to fit. The 10 ga. wires that go to the BAT and ACC posts are so short that another 1/8” shorter and the switch wouldn’t go in. WTF was he thinking? Just another bit that the new REBEL harness will replace. Not worth doing now.
Have to clearance a lip on the bottom of the dash to get the headlight switch in, and extend the wires.
Hopefully get this done tomorrow, then raise the car and pull the starter in search of the wayward wrench.
Stay toon’d for some more swell but boring adventures on the black bitch.

 

Small advance today.
Got the under dash mess kinda sorted out enough to get the ignition switch and new headlight switch hooked up and installed where it shoulda been all along.
The cheesy knob will go eventually. Just need another stock style 40 knob.



Next: that little 3/8 wrench sitting at the bottom of the clutch/bell housing.
It won’t climb out on its own.

 

Decided to wait on retrieving the wrench, since I had other work to do underneath while the car was up in the air on the lift.
Managed to get my two backup mechanical gauges installed where they missed the floor shift knob in reverse and still allowed easy access to the cowl vent handle. Better safe than sorry.
Fixed some other screwy wiring while I was under there.

 

WHOO-WEE!! SUCCESS! Thank You, Lord!!
Got the little wrench out !
You can JUST make out the silver of the wrench between the flywheel gear and the adapter lip.
Just not enough clearance to get the too long wrench turned.
Tried a magnet but the ring gear was in the way.


Bent up a piece of 1/16”welding rod, and after a dozen or so tries, got the little bugger up to the starter hole where I could grab it.
WHEW!