Technical Cured My Flathead’s Occasional Overheating (The Hard Way)!. Updated 1-6

Can't wait to see it on the road.

 

Thanks! It’s been a long row to hoe.

 

Did you have a sleeve inside your doughnut gasket?

 

All the sweeter when it’s finally on the road!

 

@saltflats
No. Is that recommended? Does it improve the seal? Who has them?

 

Yes it will help support the doughnut. Walker used to sell them.

 

Thanks for the tip. I’ll check it out.

 

Well, SOB!! It’s never ending.
Lift cylinder started leaking AGAIN! Rebuild lasted all of six months.
Of course the car is on it, raised up. Should be able to get it on the ground and finish it up.
Stay tooned, as @Hamtown Al (RIP) used to say. More opportunities.. Sigh.

 

@saltflats
Is this it?

 

Looks like what I have on mine.

 

Yes that is it.

 

@saltflats Thank you!

Driveshaft is back in!
Hopefully the last thing needed underneath, since the lift cylinder has started leaking AGAIN!!
I need to lower the car/lift to put the radiator back in and fire it off. If I do that it may or may not go back up.
I think I will get it running, pull it OFF the lift, and then try to raise the lift enough to lock it down and pull the cylinder.

 

Your welcome.
I had to replace the seals in my two post lift earlier this year.

 

While putting the driveshaft back in I saw something that needs correcting, but I had forgotten about.
Maybe dodge a problem down the road.

Think these U-bolts are way too long?
One side is longer than the other! Why?
Because there are two different thickness lowering blocks!
I’m figuring rear frame is tweaked
Car is level so it’s going to stay. Just trim them off with the Sawzall.

Right side


Left side

 

You are using the same rear spring as I am. So far with the new air shocks the ride us great- looking good!

 

@TomT
No problem with the ride as long as I’ve had it.
Those blocks should be the same, not an inch different in height.
Something’s off with the frame.

 

Are the u-bolts the same length? I know - silly question ……

 

@TomT Yes, they are.
Rear end of frame apparently has a twist, high on the left at the rear shackle. The 1” difference in the blocks levels the body off. It measures the same side to side.
I was just concerned about a flat on the RR and those bolts hitting the pavement.
Trimming them down.

 

Mo better!
At least I can get a deep socket on them now.

 

--The lock stop is normally fitted at the rear of the axle. If you can't fit it at the rear because of the disc brake adaptor, and have to fit it at the front you might find the wheels will turn too far. You can fix it by using a bigger nut on the lockstop, (I have used a lugnut) or tacking a piece of metal to the spindle to contact the lock stop.

 

Thanks! It’s a Ford stop nut, so I’ll try it first, and adjust from there. At least it’s easy to access.
All that was on there was a hex nut. Found the rub spot on the passenger inner fender panel.

 

Put it on the ground today, hopefully with everything completed underneath!

Next: See if it will turn over, check voltage and continuity in under dash wiring,
install fan, radiator and shroud, add coolant, hook up gas to fuel pump and fire it off.

Have I missed anything?

 

Piece a cake!

 

Anyhow, today I got the tube shortened and the replacement shaft with new bushings from Dale at Weedeter (@Weedburner 40) put together.
Does the Weedert steering upgrade require the shortening of the steering tube because it moves the steering box?

 

No, it doesn't move the box. The tube needs to be shortened to accommodate the U-joint and new 525 box.

 

Checked out electrical circuits today, but accidentally shorted out my ignition switch

The MIDI/AMI main fuse I had put in line blew. I hadn’t bought any spares yet, so ran all over town looking for some. Not one parts store carried them. Not my local guy, AZ, ADV, nor NAPA. Not the electrical supply nor the hardwares. Finally found them at a car stereo install shop, in every amperage Promptly ordered some spares on line for my kit.

Anyway, everything works. Hi-Lo Headlights, brake, turn, interior. Went to turn it over and ZIP!
Nothing thru the new Ford solenoid I added before the Chevy starter. I’m hoping just no ground through paint on firewall. Find out tomorrow.

 

If using the gm "mini" starter they dont like the Ford solenoid.

 

@wheeltramp brian
Thanks! Good to know. Please expand.
Do you mean that it won’t work with that setup, or it damages the mini starter?
Is it even needed in your experience?

 

On my daily driver 64 El Camino I had a standard 3510 style starter. But then as it got tired and went out, I put the GM mini starter on it as I do with all my customers' rides and it wouldn't start with my Ford solenoid. For whatever reason, the starter doesn't like to be hooked up that way. So I bypassed the solenoid and all is great. Happened 2 more times on customer rides with the solenoid and I had to buy pass it.dont need the solenoid on the mini starter

 

Good to know! I’ll try connecting direct.
Thanks !