Technical Cured My Flathead’s Occasional Overheating (The Hard Way)!. Updated 1-6

Thanks to all who voted so far, particularly for a change of hobbies to model railroading! Tempting.
I’m trying to get the engine test stand finished up.
Got to go to MT for a wedding, so things will grind to a halt soon enough.

 

I started with model railroading up to mid teen years, switched to cars and maybe will be ready to go back in my dotage.
Trouble is, all those parts that used to be so easy to see and manipulate are now so tiny.

 

Just came across this thread and haven’t got to the end yet, but I agree. I mentioned this to my machinist when rebuilding my C59A. There was no way for him to dip the block as no one around here had that capability. He cleaned it as best he could, but when I got it back, I checked with a long screw driver, and there was still a lots of crud in the block. I did another 30 mins of poking around as best as I could and quite a bit of rust etc still came out. Interested to see what happened.

 

This really is a no-brainer. It sucks having projects sit around. And the more work you have to do, the less motivated you typically are to work on it. Jam that nice little 283 in that '40 and get it back out on the road.

 

Thanis for the votes cast.
I have the radiator mounted on the hillbilly engine test stand. But it will have to wait until I get back from Montana. Needed a break from the grind. See ya in a couple weeks. Headed out of Bozeman here.

 

Maybe drive the test stand see how the radiator holds lol Have a safe enjoyable trip

 

Got back from the Montana trip and wedding and an uneventful 6200 mile round trip.
Stopped by Speedway’s Museum of American Speed. WOW!
Got hit on my return with the death of a long time car buddy from Alzheimer’s so I haven’t felt like busting it too much. Did get the test stand and wiring wrapped up and started the important two first checks.
Got 30 psi of cold oil pressure cranking it over with the starter, so ran a compression check.
110-120 on all eight cylinders.
Needed that good news for sure!
I have to run get some fresh plugs and fire it up TOMORROW! Fingers crossed!
View attachment 5455429

 

Godspeed for your friend that's a real battle .

As for testing now that's exciting !

 

Johnny: Thanks for posting Mart's "cooling problem" video. It was excellent.
Interesting to see that the FELPRO head gasket appears to be of a higher quality than the BEST gasket.
Also, the idea of using 8BA head gaskets on the 59AB engine was enlightening.

 

Late to the party Bill, did you decide on the 283? HRP

 

Yessir!
Had all the pieces, except the stepped crank bushing, which I picked up while at Speedy Bill’s.
Hopefully make some noise on the test stand today. Then gaskets and paint if that goes well.

 

SUCCESS!!
Started up and ran pretty well, considering the carb has set for 4-5 years.
Fuel pump is shot, so I had to rig up a gravity feed tank.
Ran it for 30 minutes or so, Temp held steady at 180, hot oil pressure at idle was 15 psi, climbed to 50 revved up. Very clean exhaust. No lifter noise.
Just had to richen up the idle mixture a little and it settled down.
Still needs a timing check.
And maybe rig up some mufflers so I can listen for noises better.
Took some phone videos for proof, but unfortunately without sound. “Shore runs quiet, Bubba”
More to follow on the 40 rescue attempt. Over a big hump today.

Hillbilly, high tech, gravity fed fuel tank and battery combo cart.

 

So . . . with all the speculation , and complaining . this is wot ya do .no1 tear down block. no2 remove cam bearings and gallery plugs . no3thoroughly degrease block no4 submerge in drum with 50/50 molasis and water ,cover well and leave for a month no5 remove and pressure wash well (see that rust flakes) no6 invert block and repeat no s 4&5 . rebuild block .use sealent on stud threads . fit new improved water pumps .ditch the 49_53 loadamatic dist if tou dont run stock single 2bbl .and a good 4 core radiator . problem fixed !

 

Shame you didn't know how to tune and maintain the flathead properly. They are such a good dependable engine when built and maintained properly.
Sure you could make it into a generic modern street rod with a sbc and auto like everyone who doesn't understand or know or understand that other motors exist and are equally as dependable when properly built or maintained.

 

Best suggestion yet.

 

Seeing you have gone for the budget approach a good option would be to fit a 60s 3 speed with electric overdrive. Hook it up to the 40 column shift to keep the old school cool.

 

Damn you are a smug person. Why not tell the OP how, instead of what you are saying?

 

So nice to hear from both of you, @aussie57wag and @fullhouse296!
Thanks for the great, but meaningless and irrelevant suggestions.
May I politely suggest that you take some comprehensive reading courses, and reread this thread.
This engine has always run great, but plagued me with random, overheating/coolant loss issues as long as I’ve had it.
I didn’t build it.
Hellooooo!! The block is cracked!
FWIW, the stock 59AB in my 32 runs great, doesn’t overheat and has no issues.
Carry on!

 

Don't sweat it man. He gave me the same loser trope on my thread, too. You know what the comedy of it all is? For all the bitching and complaining he does on here about small block chevys and Windsor fords, as per his profile, 2/3 of the cars he owns came from the factory with them!

The self-hatred is both ironic and hilarious. He should change his name from Aussie57wag to Clayton Bigsby.

I loved my 283 I had years ago, and I'm sure you'll love yours as well. Keep up the good work and keep us posted with the progress

 

Very traditional solution that dates to 1955…and steadily increased as the tri-fives (and beyond) hit the junkyards!

 

Figured on one last run up and check out of the 283 before it gets a cleaning, gaskets and paint.
Got some pipes bent up and belled at the local Farmer's Co-Op today and threw on some used Smithys I had.
Now it will be quiet enough to listen for any weird goings-on in the engine.


VROOM, VROOM, yeah it’s got duals, baby. Wanna go for a ride?

Meanwhile got everything under the hood off and out of the way, under the car is next.
Do I keep the residential wire cap and extra two feet of wire?
More fun later. Stay tooned.

 

That is monumental WOW !! And the weekend isn't over yet ! Congratulations !

 

Thanks! Appreciate the encouragement!

 

Ohhh,,,,,come on you tease !
I was expecting a video with sound !,,,,,,what a let down !
Lol,,,,,it looks like it will be a really nice engine,,,,I’m happy for you .
The only thing I would definitely replace is that hideous HEI unit,,,,,,they work well,,,,,but are not pretty at all .

Tommy

 

Maybe some 283 porn vid tomorrow. Phone is sh*t on vids, so I’ll try one with my notebook.
Not to worry, that fugly HEI is being replaced by an old faithful, single point Delco black top.
Supposedly, the HEI won’t clear the firewall, anyway. It does light off quick, though.
When, and if, I put the finned valve covers and C4B on it, that will get replaced by a tach drive DP
flat top Mallory.

 

@Desoto291Hemi
Ask and ye shall receive.
Tweaked the carb a little more. Needs some valve adjustment, or maybe lifters are not pumped up from sitting so long.
Try that and a vacuum gauge tomorrow.
Overall pretty pleased with it.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmJTGXDnSfv5vSgqw_pNka609M5m

 

Alright,,,,,,that’s what I’m talking about !
I thought it sounded pretty darn good considering how long it’s been waiting .
I liked the fact you had mufflers on it as well,,,,,,open manifolds usually just sound like crap,,,,that sounded fine to me .
It should make an excellent engine ,,,,,it was already warm,,,,the idle pressure was good enough,,,,,,it jumped right up there when a little throttle was added .
You should be in great shape .

Tommy

 

Thanks!
It’s amazing that the carb is doing so well; No leaks, adjusts nicely. Beyond expectations!
I think that I will set up, install and time the other distributor while I can access it easily.
Then it’s time for new gaskets and paint.
Stay tooned.

 

Well, I accidentally put a dent in the 40’s roof and quit to regroup!
Sorry, no details. Don’t ask.

I also went through all my stash of clutch pressure plates. Found only one B&B but it’s the wrong one needed for the mating of the 283 and early Ford trans. (49-50 Mercury). CRAP!

Nothing else to do but call Ft. Wayne Clutch and give blood. Good grief! No core = +$90!
WILCAP was cheaper, but out of stock.

Next, get underneath and disconnect the trans mount, clutch, exhaust and yank the now a boat anchor flattie.

 

Well, the missing link arrived today in an armored truck. $$$! Plus a $90 core charge!
The CORRECT Borg and Beck 9 spring pressure plate for this hookup is Model 1310,
49-50 and early 51 Mercury. Disc is standard Ford 10” with 1-3/8” 10 spline hub.
Other B&B’s may bolt on and work, but this is the expert’s choice. Not me, Fort Wayne Clutch. Talk to Lou!