any ideas to adapt a flywheel to an engine that the crank pattern doesnt match up? real oddball engine too. nothing available. i have a s10 t5 im thinking of using on the es***, and the flywheel is the speed bump. the car uses a wet cork clutch. it doesnt have a full surface like most cars. is it possible to buy, say a new s10 flywheel, not drilled for the crank? i would imagine most swaps, you would be able to use the original flywheel with either original pressure plate or one to match the disc that matches the trans.
Not knowing the bolt pattern on your crank I can't say. But I have drilled flywheels to fit crank flanges in between the old holes. Is the flang diameter the same as your register diameter? Doubt it. That counts also. Wilcap and 10,000 RPM have both made flywheels for me.
Is there any way to machine a flat surface onto your original flywheel, or is there no material there? Maybe post up a pic of your flywheel, and also the crank flange. I've welded up flywheels before and re drilled other patters into them, as well as drilling a pattern between the existing holes if it works without interfering with any holes. I'd say anything is possible, you just need to have the equpiment and time or find someone who has the equipment that would be willing to make if for you...cost then might become an issue tho. If the flywheel(pressure plate and disc ***y also) will physically fit inside the bell housing, then machining/adapting it should be possible.
i dont think there is enough material to cut the flywheel flat and its a pretty hard to find piece a case bolts to it which holds the presure plate, throw out bearing and contains the fluid. if the conversion worked out in the end i would much rather sell the original flywheel to some restorer that could really use it, i would much rather try to make something else work. i have the flywheel from the s10, 2 things that crossed my mind were, redrill flywheel between old holes, but i figured that wouldnt be the storngest, then i thought about drill the new holes, weld the old holes shut and machine it flat, but i wasnt sure about putting the heat into the flywheel.
You can have anything machined from metal. I would contact a competent engine machine shop, not the rebuilders, but the guys that weld cranks, heads, machine heavy engines, custom work kinda place. Take in the flywheel, clutch and trans you want, the flywheel you don't want and the block/crank ***embly. It's not a difficult job, it is just time consuming. Probably 12-20 hours at shop rate of $60-$100, plus materials. My guess would be a few hundred bucks for a basic block plate and redrilled S10 flywheel all the way up to $3K+ for a new manufactured flywheel and adapter plate. If you don't have a shop like this nearby, Call Novak and talk to them about a 1 off job. They will do it better than anyone else, but you pay for what you get.
i think i can handle the bellhousing and blockplate. this thing makes no power, i was going to stick a rover v 8 in it with a t5 i have the stuff, but im now thinking of leaving it as stock as possible but making it more driveable. it has a 3 spd with something like 5.30 gears.
One of the bigger "brands" of clutch makers made us a one-off flywheel for an off-brand drag car several years back. (early 90's) It wasn't as expensive as I thought. Just a couple hundred. I believe it was McCleod or something like that. It worked very well and p***ed the NHRA regulations for blow-proof flywheels. Try asking a few manufacturers if they could use a standard "Chevy" flywheel or something, with the center that fits a different crankshaft pattern. Make the job easy for them. They won't have to start from scratch, just machine+drill a different center section. It worked for us.
Something that may have been overlooked is a crank to flywheel adapter. If your goig to have an adapter plate adding depth have an adapter crank hub drilled to the crank's bolt pattern and also that of the flywheel's. An adapter hub shouldn't be much more deep than an adapter plate.
A couple of thoughts... How does the OEM wheel register to the crank? What is bolt circle dimension? How many bolts ? Uniform pattern? 1. check the distance that the flywheel flange extends from the block. 2. ***uming your plan is to use the s-10 bell, how does the number above compare to a stock chev measurement? Obviously, #1 needs to be bigger than #2 so that an adapter plate can be sandwiched in between to provide alignment dowels. Yes, if the dowel locations are compatible between block to bell (a location with solid material) then new holes can be made in one or the other and a plate may or may not be required. 3. once the bell is positioned then you could use any wheel that has appropriate material for the crank bolts and that can be turned down to mount the s-10 ring gear. But at this point the registration requirement is paramount and may require additional machining on the wheel or a spacer on the crank flange that incorporates some form of registration. This additional thickness will affect the thickness of your block spacer, if used. Also, keep in mind the starter pinion gear and ring gear engagement so some additional juggling of the numbers may be needed to put the two in proper position. Pictures would help us help you. .
it has to be better than the 1:1 final drive ive got now. really there would probably be a rear swap in its future if i do this.
Most of the OD units are in the .7 reduction range so the 5.3 becomes a 3.7. A little easier to work with. .
The S10 T5 transmissions had several different final drive ratios. You should check to make sure what one you have so you know what you are working with. The ratios that I know of for sure are .72, .76, .78, .79, and .86 If he has a .86 final drive, the the 5.30 becomes a 4.558 and that is still quite low.
the ratios arent really a concern. im pretty sure im going to stick an 8 3/4 in the car if it sways from the stock configuration.
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