Hot Rods Custom length stock 28-31 Ford Tie Rod?

I need a longer tie rod than the stock 1928 rod that currently measures 43-1/2" bare from end to end.
The threads are 11/16-24 LH/RH

In all of my research, I could not find anything 45-1/2" long and I wasn't surprised.

Then I looked at the DOM tubing you can get custom length from Speedway that comes with internal RH/LH threads. That's great except I can't find studs, bolts to cut or threaded rod in 11/16-24 LH.
They design these for purpose built joint ends that I can't use as I'm sticking with the stock 28 end units.

Looks like I might just have to extend the stock rod. I would like to keep the smooth 11/16" diameter and not use a sleeve. I'm thinking cut the rod closer to one end... maybe 3-6" or so. Reason is there would be less bending leverage closer to the ends. Then make a 2" long 11/16" dia insert splice. Drill and tap both ends of the existing cut tie rod for say 3/8-24 at least an inch full thread. Do the same with the insert piece. Will have to tap from both ends to center since tapping 2" through isn't practical with standard length taps. Next cut heavy chamfers on all parts to be welded. Use grade 5 or so bolts and cut the heads off to make studs. Screw it all together and jam tight. Weld all around two places and cleanup.
Any thoughts?

 

Try www.welderseries.com for a custom length tie rod.

 

Why not get some 3/4" DOM, either solid or heavy wall, cut to length and turn a section down on each end to correct diameter and thread? Nice afternoon project on a lathe. Cutting and splicing tie rods just not a good idea these days.

 

Thanks.... I guess I'll buy a length of 11/16 dia. rod and thread the ends. Been easier if I could buy 11/16-24 LH threaded anything and put them in the ends of the custom DOM that's pre internal threaded.

 

You could call Jason at Pete &Jakes he would make you one any length you want.

 

Yes, you can get 11/16" DOM and thread it and 99.9% of the time you will be OK. Same with internal threads if you buy the correct wall thickness. But being a bit cautious, I always buy it sized so I either turn down or drill to size and thread. I am sure that something like 11/16" 0.095 wall DOM is more than adequate for your needs.

 

Heat the steering arms and bend them out to make up the difference. That's how I did it.

 

Actually this is the reason I need a longer tie rod. To maintain Ackerman angles. If I bend the arms I lose the geometry.

 

Do you all think solid cold rolled 1018 steel is sufficient? Seems to be the only type available in 11/16" dia.

 

Cold rolled should work. Just going to be heavy. DOM is available in 11/16" OD in 0.065" or 0.095" wall. Several online places sell by the foot. The online shipping can get pricey, so I try my local fab or race car shops first to see if I can find something local. But 11/16" is not a common size that's why I originally suggested 3/4". I see a previous post mentioned Welder Series. I will add that Paul is great to work with and certainly worth a call.

 

Those original rods are thin walled with a plug in the ends to support the threads. I don't recommend adding a section to them. I'd check with one of the A parts suppliers and see if they can special make you a new one to the length you need. Or otherwise buy some tubing stock and thread your own. But finding the dies might be expensive. Do you know any machinists with a well equipped shop?

 

If you need 11/16-24 LH tap, try Wholesale Tool on the internet. They have all the non-standard taps and dies as well as standard sizes. I have bought 7/16-28, and 3/8-28 taps from them, usually around USA made. About 12.00 each. I just looked it up for you. $ 15.89 per tap. Get to their web-site, call them up. They are very helpful for the small customer.

 

I think my rod is solid. I would be surprised if it isn't. BTW I am a machinist but was looking to see if i could buy off the shelf an original looking one. Not a larger dia. I like the original look. I found 11/16" 1080 on Amazon for $31
I'll chase the threads on the lathe.

 

For curiosity sake, how did it end up needing a longer tie Rod? Are you using a different axle, usually going to a dropped axle requires a narrower tie Rod.


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Previous owner put the tie rod out front but then the steering arms were angled inwards opposite the Ackerman geometry. I machined anti-rotation flats on the steering arms on the other side so I could swap the arms. Now they angle outward to maintain proper Ackerman geometry but require 2" longer tie rod.

 

OK here is where I am. NOBODY so far sells a factory, solid rod, 11/16" tie rod other than the original length. Everything else is a DOM tube with internal threaded ends. Unfortunately, try and find an 11/16-24 threaded stud... no luck. So like I said before, I'll chase my own. That's what it's all about.