There have been some really cool trailer builds on the hamb and I took some notes from you guys. Here are some pictures of the trailer I am building now. I needed something for the drag car and I recently sold my other trailer. I copied the tongue length and axle location off of a Jim-Glo trialer that a buddy has. I have pulled the Jim-Glo with my 71 Chevy pickup and it pulls really nice. basic stuff 2x3 rails 80" wide on the front section and the tail section is 98" wide. storage rack for the aluminum ramps.
The axles are obviously torsion axles, but these are made with a splined arm for the spindle, it allows you to remove them and position them differently to raise or lower the trailer. This is a tool that puts a threaded insert into the frame rail so I didnt have to tap the frame rail. The nutserts are 8/32 and there is no way I was going to tap all of these holes for the lights.
Nice work, looks great! Gonna make for some interesting turns though, huh? The people driving next to you during a turn might freak out a bit watching the butt end swing into their lane.
and this just went on today.....it will get skinned with bead rolled aluminum panels and if you look close you can see the dzus fasteners. Now that it is mounted and square I will add a couple of more bars for stiffness. I plan to paint the bottom of the trailer with black rustoleum using a roller. I painted my yard gates ten years ago and it has held up perfect in the AZ sun and our rain After the metal part is finished I plan to paint the top surface gold metallic base/clear, Luckily I work at a body shop so I have access to the equipment.
It's nice work you've done, and for a "purpose built" trailer, you'll probably be okay, had I started with your base, I would have tied the diamond plate across the axles to the rear, for added support. Are you going to run a rail along the sides to hold it all together? I realize you'll probably be loading with the engine in front and motoring down the road, but while you're loading, the weight will still be applied to the rear/behind the axles, wher you just have a couple (four if I count correctly) 2x3 end-welded for rear support. Personally, I prefer a square/rectangular frame (simpler too) and run out riggers fore and aft of the tires/fender to regain the width in those spots, just much sturdier in one-pice than multiple welded pieces. Then again, I want my car hauler to move my backhoe too
Looks good. How long is the bed of the trailer? What about the overall length? Just curious, it looks like it is long enough to haul most any car. Is the front going to be storage/tire rack or just a front cover? EDIT: I was also wondering, is your trailer the same length as the jim-glo trailer your buddy has, or is yours longer? The reason I ask, is the trailer bed looks longer behind the axles than the front...maybe it is just the angle from the pics. I'm on dial up, and have not seen all the pics yet!!!
Dude, he is building a car trailer....they do also make equipment trailers....why have a heavy ass trailer if all you haul is a car. Having the rail down the sides sucks on lower cars, you can't open the door. Usually the design of most of the "rail" supported trailers are not strong enough to hold up without the rail, but built correctly a trailer can be pleanty strong without the "rail". I've built many trailers, both car and equipment...they all serve thier own purpose. His is to haul his race car, something it will easily do.
I certainly won't speak for Glen, but I can tell you this from first hand experience building my own trailer. IF again IF you can find an "off the shelf" trailer to suit your needs you will be time and/or money ahead just buying it. The issues arise when you want something special or different - THAT'S when it gets crazy. At least that's what I found out when I looked into it. In my case if I could have found a trailer to siut my needs I am quite certain I would have saved money. Now if I had someone build what I built I am just as certain they would have charged me 3 or 4 times more than I got in it. Like anything - custom work takes time - times costs $$$ big time. All said and done - I'm quite glad I built mine. "Saving money" is kinda relative.
First....dont forget its for a drag car, not a 1948 Buick....and Im not pulling it with my diesel F250, Im pulling it with my 1971 chevy C-10, I want it light. I dont think I understand that question....you cant weld to the axle? it has a bow in it for camber and it also has the rubber inside for the suspension? about $2300 without wheels and tires. The bed is 18 feet long and the tongue is 5 feet. the front is just storage and cover. the front is longer, its just the angle of the pictures. It is definitely purpose built I am pulling this with my 1971 chevy so I want it light and I want it easy to load the 29 This picture below shows the proportions from the front.
With an 18' bed the center of the axles should be 10 1/2' from the front of the bed. The way I see this from the pictures you posted you have the axles about 8' from the front. If that's correct you'll most likely have a problem of not enough tongue weight
Well, name isn';t Dude, but you can take it as you like, a short raile, just out of 1 inch bar stock, to tie the front and rear together (on the deck) about 1 or two inches high, would be plenty...if that hit's your doors, then whatcha gonna do about the fender/wheels on the trailer? Hmmmn... Do you really want to get into a construction build? Thing is, he has butt welded stock, and no suport. If you think this is fine, good for yo...cld be a light car, that's cool, but banging/bouncing along the road, and the enivitable (I can get that car, because Ihave a trailer", could lead to failure..., the only fore/aft support is the 2x3 butt welded to each other. Like I said before, if it's "Purpose built", then cool, but ineveitably, I'll always haul more in the long run, so I'd like it a bit beefier.
lots of good ideas....thats why we make these posts. Picture this car sitting on there......When I used the jim glo trailer the rear slick went all the way up to the rear of the trailer fender.
I see where Allsteel36 is coming from and agree that I would worry about all the butt welded pieces without any full length tubes going from front to back as is the norm in trailer building. Without any extra support I'd be afraid that some of those butt welds would crack out over time from the weight of he car bouncing on it in front and rear of the axle. It's a nice looking trailer but I wouldn't have built it that way as it is putting a lot of trust in that large number of butt welds over that length.
I also undestand the concern, but the main frame rail, the outside ones go beyond both axles, then the two inner rails starts between the axles and continue solid to the rear. With the box created by over lapping the two sets of main rails, this trailer will be more than strong enough. Yes, they are all butt welded, but as long as there is proper penetration on those welds, the design itself is perfectly fine.
I took some advice from the guys above and added two more full length runners down the center. I notched the existing crossmember and slid these 2x2 pieces down and then welded them up so they travel thru solid. I know it is less than you wanted but I took your advice and added some more strength. Below is the Jim Glo trailer I copied the dimensions from, mine is about a foot shorter on the tail end. I also made the tail end a dove tail to decrease ramp angle.
My buddy Dave from Induced Fabrication made the panels today for the nose. they will not be painted, but the trailer will be painted gold to match the truck.
The car (weight) will be sitting way too far back on that trailer. It will drag you all over the road.
thank you for your concern, but I have already pulled the car on the exact same setup. the car fits inside the dog house on the front.
Hey Glen, I think that'll add some much needed support to the framework, especially when you putb the deck down, now you'll have to pull the deck off the supports, before the framework fails.
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