Technical Cutting rear crossmember on '49 shoebox

What do you think guys? If I cut this section out on both sides would it cause any issues?

 

I dont think so. Looks plenty strong looking above .

 

If you HAVE to cut it out, I would be inclined to weld a strap along the edge of the hole to replicate the upside-down 'T' or 'L' section that was there before on the edge.

 

I want to get rid of the bottom edge to make exhaust removal easier without having to cut the pipe. What is the actual purpose of the crossmember? I've read it was just for rear seat support

 

My thinking is Ford thought it important enough to put a return on that panel to increase its strength, it looks pretty thick material too.

For the sake of just to make it easier to remove an exhaust, I'd do it properly and fit a bolted flange joint in the exhaust just before or after it.

that's just me though

 

Cut it out, use some 3/16" steel sections welded to the removed section, drill some holes, and make it a bolt in deal.

or

Weld a V-Band exhaust flange on the exhaust pipe near that crossmember so you can easily take the exhaust system apart to remove it and not have to modify the crossmember.

 

You think Ford would put it there if it wasn’t needed? What’s more important to you, a strong frame or easy to remove exhaust?

 

Cut the exhaust

 

Use anti-sieze on the pipes, so you can take them apart.

 

I thought about a flange but that piece of pipe would still be stuck in the hole. I'll probably just leave it though because honestly how often

theyre welded solid

 

Well, if it's for rear seat support it's not too important to me since my kids the only one that rides back there

 

You can do it right, or you can butcher it. Your choice.
Why not cut the pipe, and install a V-band clamp ?

 

You’ve been given multiple proper ways to fix your problem, oooooooor you can ignore it and hack up the car out of laziness

 

I just used a large hole saw to cut an opening big enough to allow the pipes to go through and made the exhaust able to be separated in the rare event it needed to come off. The cross member still has its integrity and the exhaust is quite serviceable. I can't imagine doing it any other way.

 

Chassis crossmembers a plenty in here! Remove at your peril. X2 on the v band clamps.

Chris

 

Is this supposed to be funny or cruel...?

 

Guys have been replacing the exhaust on those shoe boxes and putting duals on them since late 1948 and you are the first guys I ever heard of who was too damned lazy to just do it right. You can cut a little out of the web on the top side if you need more clearance for pipes that are too big for the car .

If you are having trouble welding it, you made the pipes wrong or have too long of a muffler .

 

Haha neither. She only weighs 40 pounds

 

An accident at 30mph can exert a force of up to 10x static load, so you're 40 pound daughter is exerting a force of up to 400pounds on the safety belt (I hope she's wearing one!) attached to the body supported by that crossmember, not to mention all the suspension loads applied in that same spot on the chassis.

 

I did that on Tony Ray's shoebox, to run the exhaust to the far end of the lake pipe. Use a V band end and clamp set-up. I also used them on running my 47 Chevy exhaust though small openings in the chassis.
Amazon.com: EVIL ENERGY 2.0 Inch V Band Clamp with Flange Male Female Stainless Steel : Automotive

 

It's not that I'm too "lazy", it's that Ford this is the only car I've seen the exhaust go

i didn't even consider the body mounts.

What

you cut the crossmember or used the clamps?

 

Well, if it's for rear seat support it's not too important to me since my kids the only one that rides back there. I see the humorous in this. On our way to Omaha, from Aurora,Co, for Christmas Family Gathering. Dad purchased a used 1957 Ford Ranch Wagon as gift for mom and dad was tooling along about 70 mph, Y- block humming, Overdrive kicked in. Back seat folded down, my two brothers and I were stretched out in back, nice and cozy in our sleeping bags, baby sister up front. I remember dad was just praising that Overdrive. All of sudden she started pealing a studded recap off the the rear and it was beating the Hell out the wheel well. Eventually it tore into a rusted area and blew rust chunks, water and, ice and snow through out the inside of that station wagon. Laying right next to all that excitement at around eight years old. Studded Recaps were a common thing a the time. A thing like that sticks with you. It made my attraction to the Automobile even stronger.

 

The aplenty reference was an ironic comment as to the quantum of crossmembers present, from which you are considering removing a significant proportion of the strength. Ford didn't put it there for fun and there was a cost in doing so, otherwise it wouldn't be there.

So someone's fitted an exhaust that's not removable as its fully welded, typical exhaust shop work. Fix the cause of the problem, not the symptom.

Chris

 

That wasn't my whole message haha. I'm not sure what happened to the rest of it though

 

I need to clarify...
What I meant was she's light and will still be probably for life, so if the crossmembers there for rear seat weight capacity support, and she's the only one riding back there, I'm not super concerned about her weight causing the floor to buckle. Also speaking of buckles, yes she does have one, albeit the only one in the car. It holds her car seat in there super tight so she's good

 

This will solve your problem. They come in all sizes plus transition pieces, plus same size to same size.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...cSvyM7Ne0mDyDdnAE-9OHq6A30yycxmhoCYU0QAvD_BwE

 

I tried those when I put the Brockmans (which are now gone) on but they wouldn't hold tight. I laid on them with an impact and nothing.

 

Well they work just fine for me. You may have distorted them with an impact.

 

Possibly

 

IF I were going to cut it out I would make it into a bolt in panel. This way I could still have strength and remove the panel for exhaust removal.

It wouldn't be that hard to make that piece bolt in and out...


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