Technical Cutting the top of a model a rear cross member

Like others have said, take apart the pack and use just the main leaf for test fitting. The '40 is about 2.5" wider then the A. I'm using a stock model T spring in mine and my banjo is the same width as your '40.

Model T spring lowers it a few inches of the A spring and then you can reverse the spring eyes if you want to lower it more.




https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/automotive-a-d-d-the-28-tudor.753531/

 

Yes, you need to stretch an a spring to reach the shackles.
If you take it apart, you can easily stretch the main leaf without tools. Then get a long rod or bolt, stack the leaves and clamp it. Then, you can put the new center bolt in.
That spring you have will never work.
It's too flat, and too long.

 

When you go spring behind on an A frame, most guys, myself included extend the frame 7 1/2" and still use the A spring. You can step the frame to get whatever ride height you want. The picture you have with a front suicide perch attached to the original rear crossmember is not the way to go at all. Modifying the A crossmember to fit a late spring is a load of work when the "correct" more traditional solution is so simple. A spring. A crossmember, spring behind or spring on top.

 

Well I’ll have to cut my losses with these two rear leafs I bought and I installed the model A 10 pack leaf removing #2,4,6,8 leaf…. And here we are. I appreciate everyone’s input.

 

That was quick!
Thanks for the follow up/result.

 

If you remove every other leaf as you have pictured the main leaf ends have no support. It will very likely bend. I would suggest remove top leaves in order. Probably best to keep the very top leaf to fit cross member or chamfer spring next to cross member.
John