the ones in the photo above are 8x25mm mild steel strap.I rounded the sharp corners and curved them so they look less like, well, steel strap. translates to inch by 3/8 roughly. I see what he means by the lining you braces up with spindle centreline, but the same effect can be achieved by curving the brace before it folds over, looks better with some shape to it that way.
Aussie rods generally require them for registration. No guards, no drive. Bloke over here have gone to amazing lengths to install cycle guards that don't look like they're there. I've seen... Clear perspex guards molded to fit really close to the tyre. Fibregl*** guards molded in the tread pattern of the tyre running underneath and painted flat black. Lightweight flat steel guards painted flat black and really hugging the tyre. If you post a question on the Ozrodders forum I'm sure you'll get decades of experience in the replies. Cheers, Glen.
yep Glen, and each and every one of those solutions looks like ****. I cringe at the "ingenuity" a lot of guys use to "get around" our reg requirements.. sorry but if you gotta run cycle guards, run cycle guards!! they can really add character to a car, I think mine looks better with them.
I wasn't commenting on how they looked, just on what some of them did to get around the regs. I did see one set of clear perspex ones on the back of a T bucket with really wide rubber that looked pretty good though... The 'alternative' to 35-36 Ford spare wheeel covers used to be Harley mudguards by the way. Cheers, Glen.
Did anyone mention Total Performance yet? They have been doing front and rear cycle fenders for years, many kinds. Gary
Cool comments guys, thanks for the input, I really think I have some direction now and to gnichols<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_2933442", true); </SCRIPT> great link, thanks.
Lowsquire is dead on. TWO mounting points for each brace are a must to react the bending load. I haven't had my car over 70 mph yet, but I wouldn't be worried about them if I did With the fenders painted black and hugging the tires, I've even gotten a thumbs up from the guys who prefer a fenderless look. No ones addressed your question on rear fenders, so I'll tell you what I used. I simply bobbed the stock 29 fenders. Plenty of clearance for the 750x16's I'm running on the back of the car.
Thanks gashog, great detail in your pic's. I am inspired now and as I just about have my pic posting problems fixed I will try and post a couple of pic's of what I have done. still thinking about what I can use for the rear fender sheet metal that will match this 35 Ford spare wheel covers. My rear tires are little too wide to use a cover on them.
Well, I finally got some work done on my cycle fenders and using my interpretation of all the advice I was given on this thread. I started off by making my irons. I worked out what I needed to do the job and got the irons cut out of 3/8'' flat bar, a couple of the arms I had laser cut to save trying to make sharp bents on the wide side of the bar and also the radius braces I welded between the arms. I am sure I could do a better job next time but I am pretty happy with the results for now.
Those tire rings are the way to go. One would do both sides. I've been hanging on to one for a while for a bike build.
I did make all 4 fenders but my 1st pic's were mostly of the rears. These pic's show the front and rear brackets with the sheet metal lined up. I got a buddy to help me with the sheet metal and this is what he came up with. I have mounted them and lined them up but still need to get some small bolts and tap the irons to do the final fixing. SEE PREVIOUS PAGE FOR START OF POST.
A little addition to my design of the rear attachment to the diff that I had laser cut and included a notch out for the brake line to p*** thru making it a little cleaner and tidier when running the brake lines. Since a lot of Aussies made contributions to my original call for help, I decided to read the ASRF build guidelines for cycle fenders and so decided to follow the requirements which basically called for fender to run 15 degrees forward ot the vertical center line and the same being 15 degrees below the horizontal center line. Just for your interest I am running a 1950 Cadillac diff which I had narrowed several inches, it runs similar big wheel bearing to the Ford 9 inch diff but was cheaper to buy. In keeping with the Cadillac theme I adapted a pair of 1950 Cadillac front spindles (again cheap to buy) to my Super Bell dropped axle and fabricated my own disc brake adapters and used after market steering arms which just happened to work out good. Thanks for your interest.
Great thread, good advice. I'm about to do the same thing on the '36 "Fordillac", and was looking for ideas! I'm using the '36 spare ring for the fronts, and a set of '37 Buick sidemount cover rings for the rears. These are gonna be widened a bit to cover the 7.50x16's, but the Ford rings fit the 5.00x16 fronts perfectly.
The only thing you should really do is to grind a good radius on the edge of your mounts which carry your fenders as round edges don't generally crack as do square edges,well worth the extra work.I ground mine to an oval shape and have had no dramas at all after many dirt road miles.My guards are simple alloy ones beaten over a wooden buck,front and rear just made to cover the tread on the old crossplys,not fancy but look okay painted henrys black. hope this helps,
Here's my build thread if it's any help at this point http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247771&highlight=spare+cover Flatman
Thanks guys, I will take the advice on rounding the arms. I tried to use the 35 spare wheel covers, but my tires are too big in diameter and the would not sit correctly. I guess I will use them on the next project.
Hi Fiat128, sorry no i dont want to sell them off I had a lot of trouble finding good ones, shame is I cut the cover in half now so i can not sell it as a cover if I ever decided to. I will use small diameter front wheels next project and will use thenm then..
You might be able to re-form the curve on the wheel covers to fit your larger diameter tires. If you squeeze the sides together, there will be less curve front to back, and more curve side to side. Do you have a picture of the cover? John www.ghiaspecialties.com
I would pull the ends apart and then squeeze the sides together to re-form the curve to fit your tire. John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Just a quick follow up... to better illustrate reforming the curve of the fender, and how this affects curves in both directions (contour swapping), check out this video showing part of making a small cycle fender: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pil1VUzKVVE John www.ghiaspecialties.com
For wider rear fenders you can use a modified modern spare tire cover as used on the abcks of older Vans. Some are even stainless. Narrowable and you can weld a round profile trim strip down the center as a cosmetic bead line to match beaded fronts. Cheap at junkyards and very adaptable, bendable, curvable, trimable.
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