Hot Rods Dare to be different - 63 Scout

Sorry folks but ... alas... no Hemi. My financial advisor (Frank from the lottery ticket counter) has not yet found the magic number combination that will allow me to afford a period correct 426 elephant motor. That just leaves the wealthy benefactor option (Which has not yet materialized either) or the long term savings route. Let's just say a Hemi is not out of the question but not in sight for the near future.

I am reconsidering the powerplant but if / when I make a change it won't be anything terribly exotic. Stay tuned

 

A blown IH 345 or 392 would be a pretty cool fit. See link below...

http://bangshift.com/blog/weirdo-dy...rnational-harvester-v8-makes-a-few-pulls.html

 

It's been a while since I posted anything about the little Beast and I left with a comment about a major upgrade. I'm sure both of you following the thread are on the edge of your computer screen with anticipation wanting to know more.

Well kids... here it is - The Scout will be upgraded with an entirely new powerplant and a good old fashioned / old school (HAMB friendly??) 6-71 supercharger

I got the supercharger and a huge assortment of blower parts from a local racer who had gone the way of the turbo. My first thought was to simply upgrade the 377 with blower pistons and a blower cam, bolt the lung on top and let'r fly. However after talking more than few times to our engine builder (George Brazier jr. @ Brazier Race and Machine) about the combination and about the inherant weakness of the 400 blocks, I decided to pull the financial trigger to do it right. So I ponied up for a Dart Sportsman block and the financial avalanche started from there.

The guiding principles of the build were:
> Build it right the first time
> Stay within my defined budget - Changes to be approved (They were)
> Build it so I'm surprised it breaks rather than surprised it didn't

For the most part this was well planned and we stayed on budget with a few exceptions. I was hoping more than a few parts from the 377 would transfer over including the heads, lifters, rockers, valve springs, oil pan etc. Unfortunately not a lot transfered, either due to existing damage or simply because the Dart block takes different size components. We also found out that I had a collapsed valve spring and some terrible headwork done last season at a different shop. George figures I might have been down as much as 30hp. (And still running 10.80's) This added a complete rebuild for the heads to the plan and a lot of parts not originally quoted. In the end all the changes were upgrades and a lot of parts going back onto my 377.

So after 4 months and a hockey sock full of money, I took delivery of the new bullet. Now I have more than a few other issues to work out. Not the least of which is a remote water pump and the related plumbing through the manifold. I also have to update the Scout for the very real possibility of 9 second passes... (Great... more $$$) I may be broke - but I'm still very pumped about it all !!

I plan to run this thing between 6 and 8 pounds at least for this year but I have been assured the long block will easily take 15 pounds and 850+ hp. This thing was built to hammer on - a lot .... dependably...so I will do just that... hammer on it...a lot !!!

Now if I can just get it sorted out and set up in time for Meltdown 2013

Here are the vital statistics...

406 Cu-in sbc
Dart Sportsman Block w upgraded steel main caps and bolts

Callies Dragon Slayer crank w 400 journals / Double keyway
Manley Rods w upgraded rod bolts
Diamond 8:1 blower pistons
Diamond floating titanium pins /clips
Hellfire rings
Static compression 8.14:1

Same Brodix Track 1 heads from the 377 but with all the crappy head and valve work fixed
ARP Head studs / nuts
Crower valve springs with Titanium cups and retainers
Crower roller lifters
Crower 1.6 roller rockers w stud girdle
Customer grind .605/.598 roller cam - Makes power 5300 - 6000 - which will allow overdrive on the blower if I want
Cloyes billet roller timing chain (Hidden behind a cheap ass Chinese cover ??)

Milodon oil pump
Milodon pan with windage tray and baffles

Old school 6-71 GMC conversion blower w Weiand End plates
Weiand competition intake - port matched to the Brodix heads
2 x 650 cfm Holleys (Likely pushed out to 700 cfm (ish)

The carbs in the last picture are for mock up. The real carbs are in pieces on a work bench

 

Cool... AA/GS Scout!

Making any changes to the fuel delivery system?

 

At the moment I will not be upgrading the fuel system but that has definitely been on the radar. My current system is a Holley Blue pushing into a fuel log with a regulator bleeding off the excess. I was set up for 8 pounds into my 930 Pro System carb and that was with the regulator set very low and bypassing most of the fuel flow. More than a couple of knowledgeable carb/fuel guys all agree that by turning up the resistance on the regulator that I will have enough fuel system to handle 6 - 8 pounds of boost. The previous owner of the blower ran 15 pounds in a 355 sbc with the same set up. But we'll creep up on it and see what the Scout is telling me.

Then there's Phase 2... you know... Stage 2 blower, Hilborn fuel injection, alcohol....
(Come-on Lottery win !!!)

 

Man I love your Scout.My daily driver is a 79 Scout 2.

 

Ha, a blower now...lol no shit, going for the back bumper scraper I see.

 

Yea.. he already busted the wheelie bars last year when it was N/A. Better pull some gear out or lead up the front bumper..LOL.

Better have video rolling when you launch that puppy...

 

The anti-gasser. Mine's a diesel.

 

I had an '80 for a little bit. put a '72 grille on it. That was a fun little truck. Sold it a few months ago. Sorta wish i kept it.

 

Kind of hoping the extra 100 pounds or so that the heavier block and the blower / carb set up will add to the front end will keep it down. (Not likely).

I'm also changing the rear gear from 4:56 to 4:10 as my power band is lower than the 377 combo. I was running 6800 though the lights last year. Not good for this set up. At least not good for the current blower. The gear change may soften the launch a bit.

I'll also be upgrading the wheelie bars from the Pro-Street stuff that bent all to hell to a longer set of Sportsmans.

Still want to stand it on it's bumper. Except maybe now I'll keep the wheelstands lower and carry them out further... just gotta see how it all works out.

 

Ever have one of those "Oh thank God" moments ??

My carbs are done and I was mounting them onto the 2" spacer on top of the blower. At the same time adding the stainless lines and the Weiand side saddle linkage kit. Part of the linkage kit includes some small spacers.

As expected I dropped one of these spacers and sure as hell it falls between the manifold and the valve cover. I pull the valve cover and fish it out with a small magnet. Just as I'm pulling it out I hit the edge of the manifold (Yes... I sucked at Operation) and the spacer drops into the exposed head. At this point I'm convinced I see it drop down one of the oil passages ... Oh Crap !!

After almost thowing up at the thought of having to pull the motor apart to retrieve a .01 cent part... I decide to pull off the blower and have a look from a different angle. Luckily this pays off and I see the spacer by the valve spring about 2mm from the oil passage... Oh Thank God !! I picked it out and put the valve cover back on as fast as I could.

I sure like the Weiand linkage kit. Goes together well, well designed and not over thought. Should work very well.

 

I'd say that qualifies as an "Oh Shit!" moment! I hate 'em but its good when you survive, as you obviously did.

 

I hate it when that happens. Glad you found it though.

 

After much frustartion and head scratching, I have the motor fully mocked up and all but ready to throw into the engine bay for the first time.

Because of the block mount idler pulley we had to go with a remote cooling system. We started with a Meziere 35 gpm pump and then made it difficult on myself by deciding to mount it on the engine plate. We fabricated up some idler pulley spacers that double as 90 degree inlet ports then welded on some AN bungs and added the appropriate -10 fittings. Press on Aireoquip hose and some 90 degree fittings at the pump round out way to get the water into the block. Could have been easier to route the water through the back of the block but I like this set up a lot better.

Water out was just as awkward. Because of the manifold I am using we had to put in a remote thermostat housing mounted on a home made bracket. More AN fittings, more press on hose and it's done.

In the end the set up is symetrical and looks pretty good. As long as we don't end up with a garden sprinler when its all under pressure I think it'll do the job well. Honestly, as long as it gets me to Sam's at the Meltdown this summer I'll be happy.

Also... we planned out the blower restraint install. The mounting hardware is supposed to bolt to the header bolts. But... no matter how I rotate the restraint, the straps line up with at least 2 bolts that are already difficult to install, never mind adding the strap hardware. We decided to mount them on the header flange in the open spaces between the tubes. We drilled the holes today and will use flush mount 3/8 bolts coming through the flange from behind. Much cleaner install and no hassles with header bolts, gasket stays flat and it solves the need to bend the hardware for valve cover clearance.

Not much left to do and in fact I had planned to start the drive train install today. However, I have been offered some dyno time to make up for the dyno runs last year that were cut short when the dyno failed.

Lots to do on the truck itself, just not finding the time to get it all done as quickly as I would like.

 

Looking Good!

 

Dropped the new bullet in between the frame rails for the first time. Needed to see clearances, what I'll need for rad hoses and what needs to be repositioned. Only real change appears to be the need to move the fan to the front of the rad (Done). Even the fuel lines reach. (Bonus)

As far as clearances are concerned, the carbs clear the fire wall by about an 1/8 of an inch. Everything else lines up great. Almost as if it was planned for the blower from the start. It wasn't... but I'm certainly not complaining that it all lines up.

Forgot to take a shot of it with the front sheetmetal on, but you can see how well the engine tucks into the recessed firewall yet I can still reach the distributor. The blower hides below the fenders with only the carbs rising up out of the engine bay.... Davey Likey !!

Now I have to pull it all out and start final assembly. And... there's still the possibility of a dyno run lurking out there.

 

Drooling! Nice pics!

 

Love it !..................Littleman Dave

 

Nice but man where did the distributor go...lol

 

Buried deeeeppp in the firewall...
Actually it's still sitting on my tool box. Like I said...easy to access. Not terribly effective, but easy to access

 

The previously mentioned side shot with the sheet metal on.
Dyno time in 2 weeks has been all but confirmed. It'll be nice to sort out before the first runs. Maybe, just maybe we'll make it for opening day May long.

 

Lookin good Scoutmaster!

 

Kool my first truck was 1962 Scout!

 

I'm sure there's a thread on here for things we do in the shop that are profoundly stupid but I'm not ambitious enough to go look for it.

Motor is all but ready for the dyno. I bolted up the motor plate and idler pulley bracket for the last time before the big pulls. This included remembering to add all the water outlet gaskets and adding all the thread sealer / pipe dope where required. I also cut holes in my valve covers for my evac system and managed to do so without ruining them.

Now the stupid part ... I decided to add oil and spin it up for pre-lube so there would be one less thing to do at the dyno session. I happily added 6 litres if 20-50 racing oil without spilling it all over... even found my "spin-up" tool without having to take the shop apart and... happy days... the high torque drill has a full charge. I'm good to go. (see this one coming ??). Started spinning it up and promptly pumped 2 litres of expensive racing oil onto the floor... and my leg... and work boots...

Forgot to add the filter... even dumber... I found out the block doesn't even have an oil filter adapter... which I would have figured out when I tried to add the filter and before I pumped oil all over the shop and myself.

Decided at exactly that moment to call it a night and go home...After cleaning up of course.

Could have been worse... and at least I know my oil pump works really well.

 

I thought your were gonna say so forgot the drain plug. Been there myself.

 

boy does it look great. but I think its gonna take a major set to to stand on it. you sir are a very brave man. and yes I am jealous! see you at Byron, gook luck on the dyno.

 

If the dyno session checks out and I don't have a floor full of parts as the result, I'll be making an effort to get the little beast to the track for opening day. (May 18) That will mean I won't have time to change the rear gears from 4.56 to 4.10's but more important it means I won't have time to replace the wheelie bars.

That could be a recipe for disaster !!! Or... a reminder that I'm a 50 something guy driving a high center of gravity 100" wheelbase 600+ hp (700 anyone ??) death machine and maybe I should ease into the check out passes...

 

That combo could definitely lead to a "Skid Marks in the Skivvies" moment! lol

 

Dynos rule !!! - AND... I don't have a floor full of parts !!!

After a total of 7 jet changes and a few timing adjustments the best pull generated 630 hp @ 6300 and 573 tq @ 4400. This was with #78 jets w 34 degrees timing and 8 pounds of boost. In the end we ran out of jets and we figure we left some on the table. We also saw a very abrupt drop off in power after 6300rpm which had us concerned but it never pinged or knocked so we soldiered on.

The best part of it all is that most of the fiddling and fussing is done. We spent a lot of time adjusting the carb linkage, float bowls and idle settings. My cobbled together remote cooling system performed great and never spilled a drop. The fancy-dancy fuel lines I'm using were a pain in the ass and leaked like crazy at first but once I threw away the expensive AN wrench and used a real tool everything tightened up nicely. Nary a drop of oil was spilled (unless you count the slight leak from the rear blower plate and the valve covers loosing off from the crankcase pressure.

At the end of the session, just for fun, we flipped the pulleys. We hit 10 pounds boost and likely would have seen 12+ but it started breaking up around 5500 so we got out of it. The torque touched 600 at 4400 and the hp was better throughout the rpm range and might have threatened 675+ if we could have stayed in it. Best guess is that the valve springs are too light and we floated the valves. Which may also explain the sudden drop in the previous pulls. We'll look into that later. For now it's a thrash to get it out for the weekend

The plan for now is to set the carbs up with 76 jets all around and let'r fly. The motor starts and idles without any drama which is exactly what I wanted. I now have 130 more hp and 120 more tq than last year on a safe and conservative tune with tons left in it. I'm very happy with safe and conservative... for now ... or at least until I get the wheelie bars fixed.

And...they are calling for rain on our opening weekend at the track...crap !!