Jeff I got to thinkng If everyone wants we should all park together and have a cookout etc and have a heck of a time would be a great day! It`s going to be a packed house from what peope are telling me. I gotta ask John if there are any spots still open I heard they were full already?? Frank as milner said to Toad in the movie 'ok man we`ll take`em all on` Frank dont you know better than that, always bring a warm coat always!! nomatter what. Next time you still can would like to see what you think and it will get the blood uh-flowing IDK if it will be fast or not but sure sounds good to me......... Tell mack he better get his entry in there going quick! maybe we can talk John into a bit more than 330 . I got to figure out a few things on my car may have to take a trip north with it Frank you going to Amherst swap on sunday its the first 1 I am going to try and round up some stuff to sell i got to much I think i am a hoarder
Sounds great OH, oh...Mack signed up real early last year at Orange, but not sure on this year. I will ask if he is in.
i think there's registration for those that want to race, but not for those that just want to attend.
Mark is right Jeff you only need to pre-register if you want to race. check out the link. http://www.johnscustomrods.com/orange-drag-reunion.htm Frank I hope mack did I heard theres only 150 spots and i hear they where going quick I meant to talk with John @ The airport sunday but I never got back to see him or get a new poster. there was a thread here on the HAMB about it aswell.
Dave, those slicks look killer !!!! Scott & I are still plugging away on the coupe. Got all the welding done. Next to pull the motor (again) to paint the frame pretty, then thrash to get it all back together. Talk to you soon.
Ah, but will they make nice white smoke as instantly as the old ones Dave, speaking of smoke, why does your 49 Olds open rear burn both tires.... We saw it do it both times at Fitchburg.
Thanks Brett i thought i was getting them with the grooves on the outside of the tires and a 2inch ww. They look good and they are safer than what is on there. Frank did you see the old ones?? They were cracked severely where it sat on flats for 40 years.. I am wondering the same thing Frank, it does smoke just 1 at times aswell I think when i took off it actually spun both as it was a little sideways back and fourth. it was a little wet and slippery (Thankfully) or it woulda been a churp and made me look bad Idk for sure if it`s a olds or not one of the many things i have to do.
"Those aren't cracks", said the used car salesman, "they are caracter lines" You missed the best part...it looked cool as heck from behind, and on a big airstrip like that... I need a video camera. you hoodlum
Yup they have character Frank but not gonna last and i dont want to tear up anything . I seem to always miss the best part. i bet it looked cool if you wouldve taken it for a spin i woulda seen it Hoodlum lol yes i am while i still can be
I give up, who's that? The car looks much better with a rear end in it Next week I will find out about the e-brake parts. Got postponed this week.
Frank That`s Badpenny here on the HAMB (Brett) Yes it is better with rear end in going to be better when i finish it. Noproblem with the parts i got time unless Brett opens his wallet a little wider and were almost there and i will be Rod less
I was thinking it was one of the "twins" He can't have it, he already has a cool deuce coupe. Tell him that with just a little cutting and tossing, his will look pretty close
LMAO yup one of the twins Cant cut up that beautuful car! He fit really good in there..All i woulda had to do is let him take it for a ride and he wouldve been sold... lol Frank had a lady call me a Hoodlum friday night at the kimballs show, I asked why? She said your car is to loud I drove in with open headers I almost said of its to loud your to old but i respect my elders And i told her only on fridays or when i am driving the Hot Rod!
Hey Dave, we went to look for Olds ebrake parts today for your coupe. The owner showed us the 49 Chassis, but when we got the drums off, the shoes and the flat crossbars are missing. But we scored the 2 ebrake levers that hook to the cables and anchor on the shoes. I guess that's a good start. Maybe you can get those 2 flat crossbars from auto parts store, in the "help" brand? or get some from any 11" brake setup? Must be close enough? Broke my camera so I can't put up a pic of the 2 levers we got for you. The ebrake cables were junk, but you can get NOS ones from Pease, I paid $25 each for mine there last year. Check out the stock suspension and bar mounts. Sure beats welding the trailing arms to the axle tubes. You need any of this stuff to set up the coupe? The bars are not rotted, the front cross piece to mount the arms looks good, too. Found a very souped up 371 there too, I might be getting soon. Pop-ups, solid cam, McGurk adj rockers, Stick flywheel and clutch.
Frank thanks for the pics it explains exactly what they did and how, they used the olds rear and trailing arms. And thanks for gertting those pieces I will trade ya for the 371 that you got... I`ll talk to you soon. Here`s some pics for ya i like it let me know what you guys thinks..
It looks great, with the old or new tires, engine color as it was or as it is. The car itself is still the same to me. It looks so much like what I recall 45 years ago on the streets. It has the small quirks that I remember, because these were built in different times by different goals and standards. Old builds are are a joy to look at, even if they get changed up a bit...they are what they are.
Hey Dave...is a bank check OK or do you want all cash ??? LOL...The new slicks look really slick. Did you see my latest post on the progress ??? Gonna fire it up soon !!!
Thanks Frank i like it. Cant do much of anythingelse with the rear thats in it. BRETT i didnt see post yet... call me tomorrow or ill see ya @ Kimballs if your going
Frank heres some pics I dont know why but the pics i got tonight didnt load ill get more tomorrow and heres a pic of the new rear. The car ws on the lift in those pics but when on ground thye are against perch
Ok Dave, I looked at page 10. Several things noticed. -they used the front metal piece of the original Olds rubber mounting biscuits, to weld to the Olds trailing arms. Those leftover wraps of plate steel around the axle tubes are what is left from the rest of the orig Olds biscuit mounting pads. I would think there must be a simple way to save that rear housing and have the trailing arms bolt to the tubes. - they had trouble with ride height when they built it; they had it way too low, so they added a plate with spacer block below the 32 Ford spring seat pocket. - I don't know what spring that is, but it has way too many leaves for such a light rear body weight. -pic #3 and pic #6 makes it hard to tell where the spring hanger eye is, in height. and in one of those pics, yes, I see what you said about the hangers are upside down and on the wrong sides of the car. The problem on getting started is getting the spring softer, then re-arch, but then figure how much ride height got lost. Then compensate with the mounting height of the new spring hangers. Re-arch is usually needed if you take a lot of leaves out, the spring gets too flat. A flat spring is a "dead" spring, and will ride badly. Repro hangers come in different shapes, but I doubt you'd find the right height for yours. So, make them up. Like this plan, but as you can see, these are not shaped right to get your height correct. Just showing the idea.
Yes yes yes. The spring measures 46 CTC eyes in car. I believe i read thats normal lenght on most springs
More thinking on a plan: This is actually 2 seperate jobs that should be looked at as "one thing at a time" -job #1 is Repairing/rebuilding new spring hangers, while softening the spring and not changing the ride height. I think my car is really very close to your rear weight. Maybe use my spring measurements of "arch when loaded", to mock yours up? I can count my leaves and measure the approximate lengths of each leaf. Then measure from the center bottom of the main leaf, to the centerline of the outer eyes. Then measure yours as it sits before you take it apart. We don't know what your spring is from, and I don't know on mine either, so I need to measure eye to eye also, like you just posted. All we are doing here, is finding out how much arch change will happen if you mod your spring like I modded mine, to get a softer ride. -job #2 is re-doing the arms the right way. Make them angle way inwards at the front, with stock Olds trailing arm bushings or Chevy truck trailing arm bushings. I don't think I'd re-use the tie rod ends up front, because you want to race, and you need it strong. A crossmember most likely will be needed for these new forward mounting points. 2nd part of this job is find a way to bolt, or U-bolt the arms to the rear axle tubes.
I agree and that seems like what the plan is going to be. I just dont understand there thinking on what they did but i would assume they didnt have,want to spend the money on narrowing the rear. it was done but by drag guys not many hot Rod guys did it??? My spring appears straight not curved like a 32 so probably 36. The bisquits dont offend me but may be a little big looking... I dont nessecirlily wnat to race it but i would like to give it a few good runs without wrecking stuff and not break it @ Fitchburg airport. Macks 411`s will be stout Now to figure out something and soon
Dave, From what I can see of the spring hangers; the eye of the hanger is mounted a lot higher than any aftermarket hanger you can buy. They mounted those high like that, and lowered the spring mount at the 32 crossmember, because it's channeled, but still runs stock fenders. So, your new hanger needs to be an upside-down J, welded to the top of the axle tube. Then the eye will "hang down", so the shackle or spring eye won't hit anymore. It needs to be made from thicker plates, including the side gusset that is used with these plate style hangers. It need to be thicker than repro hangers, because of the odd shape it needs. I should be getting a working camera in a day or so, and I can make a sample from cardboard if you want. Your spring needs to end up a little stiffer than mine, so that the tires don't hit the fender lips on huge bumps. You do have pretty good clearance, so you can loosen your spring rate up to "medium stiff" IMO Also, in this pic, the viewers can see how the trailing arms are mounted parallel, instead of pointing inwards at the front, like they should have been. That's why the welds keep failing.
Dave, here is a crude, out of scale hanger style. Yours would need a taller J maybe. 1/4" plate? Don't laugh at my cardboard skills. those are truck arms in the pic; 60-72 Chevy, I like using those bushings, rather than heims or tierod ends. They last forever and allow some twist. I just measured my spring...with the car sitting on the ground at ride height. 46" CTC Arch measured from spring eye centerline, up to the bottom of the main leaf at center near the centerbolt is about 3-3/4" Not counting super short leaves I have for spacers, I have 6 leaves, starting with one around 14" or 15". And then some short spare leaves above that one. Mine rides nice and soft, but I get a bit more travel that you can handle at your fender lips/tires. Anyways, that's what I have so far. I did look for some cut-off Ford forged hanger bushing "tubes" from old original hangers, but all I have is 2" for the front springs. They would save some time, if you can't find correct pipe size to make some.
The Jalopy Journal
