Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

any pics from the bottom??

 

Once the heater box and wiper motor, plus the snakes of wires for this stuff to work is gone, its not too bad. Mine looks pretty clean for a '91.

But with a narrower cab like a '46 Chevy, it'd be easier to just unbolt the master cylinder and pull the wiring harness and put it back later.

My floor was rotted out, and it really wasn't worth the trouble trying to splice the old firewall to the S-10 floor pan.

I'll try to get some pictures of the way the floor pan worked out as well.

 

Hi Fred. I used a #FR1501-2 .....72 Pinto from Flaming River.
It is $299 at Flaming River . It is 5" narrower than the #FR1501.
If I remember correctly it is 40 1/2 inches .
Flaming River has a site with all the info...... I havent driven it yet so I cant tell you about bump steer.
I can understand your bump steer concern, I feel the same way.
It certainly does measure very close to the pivot point of LCA. Its still in mock up stage, not completed yet.
Only prob was making a sleeve to connect tie rod ends to S-10 spindle.
Hope this helps a bit.
I havent had time to work on it much even put it up for sale,no bites, so will be getting back to it.
BTW: what vehicle are you putting it on?

 

I am digging this post as I picked up another '40 ford pickup project recently and was unsure of what kind of frame setup till I found this post.

I bought a shortbed s10 with 373 rear. I just narrowed front part of the frame today so that the 40 cab will fit. I will post pics tomorrow.

I am going for a chopped and sectioned look..

 

cool!!! please make some pics also from the brackets and the frontside..

 

Oh, hell yeah! Post us some pics!

Sounds like you did an outstanding job!

~Jason

 

I can't add anything to this thread but I did use the idea for the cab lifter.
I had to move 3 COE cabs around on to different chassis and for storage and the 2X6 and plates worked out fantastic on my engine hoist. one of the cabs was even a clubcab and it lifted great too
THANKS for the idea Ron....

 

Whats everyone using for pedals and a steering column?

 

Sorry to disappoint but definitely in the early stages. I only have six hours into this so far.
when done will be chopped 4" in back and 5" in front and sectioned 3" and channeled but unsure how much right now. Going for a 5 and 7 static drop with spindles springs, leafs and blocks. parts coming this weeks. Lots of work ahead of me I know. I love this shit.

 

Smooth50: Looking good Holmes!!!!!



I'm doing pretty much the same thing you did on your frame. I had to stop for a few minutes and make a parts store run.
Lesson for the day: There's no such things as ENOUGH saw-zall blades!!!!

 

Had a good day in the garage and remembered to take pics!!~




First off, finally got the passenger side hole in the front crossmember cut and bolted up the motor mount:





That shouldn't have been such a huge problem but now that's behind me!!!

 

Next up, it was time to get rid of the kick out on the frame rails.







This is the section that needs to be reworked:






Since i'm welding the tubing to the outside of the original frame rail, I cut back into the frame rail to give a greater contact area.





I first tried to cut just a section of the frame rail out and slide the tubing inside. I thought this would keep everything solid and assure nothing moves.

 

That proved to be more trouble than it was worth. So I tacked a piece of all thread on (which turned out didn't help much either but at least it didn't move) and cut the section out.






Everything fits pretty close.






I still need to pie cut the rear frame rail and pinch it in to match the tubing better, a couple of places need to be spliced and pulled in tighter but we're not far from welding everything up.









This will work MUCH better!!!!

 

Haywood,
Since your at that point, why not just use the front clip, and fab the rest? Your probably going to change the wheelbase anyway, 2 X 5 tubing will fit inside your stock frame rails, and I think you would be happier with the end result. Im doing a 40 ford pickup, and by the time I have into narrowing the rails at the 40's firewall, and making a rear clip to change the wheelbase, I wish I had just used the front sub and fabbed the rest, just my opinion.

 

Yes, it will work.

 

Random floor pan pics.

 

Good question... anybody????

also next time i want to make a crossmember any ideas for that???

 

who can help me with a good drawing to make this type of crossmember for my S10 frame

 

Bigtumtum here's a couple pic's of my crossmember, I had to do something a little different as my chassis is pinched pretty hard at the firewall.




C4metalwerks Im going to use the original pedals from my 40, just build a different bracket and mount under floor. Im using a hyd. slave cyl. for the clutch, my truck sit's directly on frame and there's not much room for a mechanical bellcrank. As far as the column, Im using the original column drop and will make a column from 1 1/2" tubing.

Hope this helps you guy's.
Later,
Billy

 

Man, that's bitchin"!!!!!!

 

I used the stock one..

 

Hi bil,
thanx but do maybe also have the measerments or a small drawing so i can make something like yours

 

I'm with you, zman. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

~Jason

 

Yeah only in my case the problem is i dont have the orginal anymore

 

BigTumTum,

Look at www.jagsthatrun.com they are the same mounts as for the Astro / Safari conversion to V8.

The plans are there.

U-Weld-It Mounts for V8 engine swaps



The site has lot of good information about radiator, headers, transmissions, speed sensors etc.

HTH

 

Thanx dude but got mine already installed

 

Question- would stock SBC saddle mounts fit over those mounts installed in the first pic in bigtumtums post? Or does the motor need to be mounted back in most applications. It seems that every mount that I have seen sits the motor back like 4". I know that in S-10s they do it for radiator clearance but is it necessary in the AD trucks or in my application- a '40 pickup. I havent got that far in my build to mock it up yet.

Thanks

 

Smooth50, I can't really speak for bigtumtum's mount's but Im also building a 40 ford pickup, and yes the motor need's to be mounted back, mine are not 4" back, I set it up so I would have distributor/ firewall clearence, I can measure the set back, but you should do your's the same way, anyway here's a couple pic's. probably overkill, but they worked out well.




Bigtumtum, I will pm you some dimension's on the crossmember, got cad out in the shop, but no printer, and no scanner also, but I'll see what I can do.

Later,
Billy

 

If you have email out there, he can read some CAD files.

You could also use one of these to get the files to the other computer:

Just a suggestion. Works in a pinch!

~Jason

 

Might work, I can draw and load cad file's on thumb drive to email, can you open iges file's bigtumtum?