Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

Most of the guys from that S10 site started at blazinlow.com which is a more informative site IMO.

 

S10 forum is great however many of the guys there are just about modifying s10's. I posted on there and one guy replied that an s10 under an AD body isnt really a good idea cause they never look right. Does he not know that an s10 frame is typically a frame of choice(other than a specific pre fab hot rod frame).

 

Still some nice S-10 tech though. Especially if one was doing a 4-link setup in the back.

 

I already have a bagged s10 with a tri-angulated four link. looking to see how guys did it with coilovers and panhard.

 

Heres what Im doing, triangulated four bar with shockwaves

 

Very nice. I like that set up.

 

What kind of headers/exhaust manifolds is everyone running with a SBC?

 

Okay guys, I've read this entire post, and here's the question from hell. Has anyone considered widening the s-10 crossmember? Given, the s-10 track width is 54" and the metric (GM G-body, Regal, Cutlas, Monte Carlo, Malibu, etc.) is 58". Why not widen the s-10 crossmember approximately 4" so the G-body center-link and sway-bar could be used? All oother parts are interchangeable between the two. The widening could be completed neatly and a new bottom skid-plate could help strengthen the splice. This encrease in width would solve the narrow track width problem(without spacers) on the A-D trucks and would help with the steering box/core support interference problems. The remaining cross-members in the s-10 frames are of simple design so the entire frame could be widened 4" which would make it a more desireable swap for the 55-59 Chev. and 57-60 Ford trucks. I've studied the pictures and I think there is ample room for the encreased 2" per side at the front mount area on the A-D trucks. I subframed a 48 with a front steer Nova and it drove excellent but I had tire rub at the top of the wheel opening in tight turns. I have driven an A-D truck with a Mustang II for over 30,000 miles and the ride wasn't as good as the subframe. I want to do an S-10 chassis but I'm concerned about the front track width. Please comment. Why wouldn't this work?Sam

 

Can do the same thing with less work by using aftermarket control arms that are 2" longer unless there's a reason to need the frame rails to be farther apart. Swap in a 4x4 S-10 rear to add a little width to the back. Just a thought.

 

If you're going to do that wouldn't it be easier to take the G-body frame and replace the side rails with box tube, eliminate that bow out at the cowl, so it will fit an early cab/body?

G-body is too wide in a 49-54 Chevy car, just barely, so that swap probably wouldn't go on an AD truck, and from what I gather it's just as easy to slip a Camaro clip into a 55-59 Chevy truck. Don't know about the Fords.

 

I'm with you on the 4x4 rearend. If the frame was widened the spring pads on the rearend housing would have to be relocated to compensate. Are wider control arms available? I was just thinking of a way to use all readily available (salvage yard) parts to keep the cost down but get a wider front track width. My suggestion for widening the crossmember might open up a bunch of options for using just the front S-10 frame section for various subframing projects.

 

why not just add a G-body front frame section to the S-10 frame? rustynewyorker i have seen that done, adding new rails in needed position and seemed like it would work. my experience with the people doing frame swaps is they figure out being too low is much cooler sitting still!

 

where do you find these 2" longer control arms? I want to lengthen my arms on my 62 chevy/98s10 swap. Any help is appreciated.



here are the latest pictures of my swap.

driveway is narrow, this is to show the nice rake and stance. truck is channeled 3" over the s10 drivetrain


underhood, the cowls are now connected. heat, AC, EFI, ABS, this old truck never had it so good!

 

In my area, the G-body cars are getting hard to come by, most have ended up on the dirt tracks. There are S-10's everywhere and they are cheap to even free. The G-body front ends make good grafts for the A-D trucks as they are narrower than the Nova and Camaro subs. It's probably easiest to just go with an aftermarket Mustang II. I drive my old vehicles alot and want to pull my teardrop trailer with this next truck and head out west. I want something a little stronger than the aftermarket Mustang II set ups. I was just thinking "outside the box" and wondering if anyone had thought of or tried the widening idea. I'm thinking it's a good idea because there won't be any welding on critical steering parts and the geometry of the suspension shouldn't be affected. Sam

 

I myself have used the shorty headers designed for the S-10 Frame.. theres another type out there that curls around the right front of the frame.. that looks kinda hokey.. but theres a few that like the set up..

 

That looks pretty slick have you got some more build pics you can share?

 

Vendors who sell racing stuff. Here's one I use alot. Click on control arms. There is a huge selection of uppers available. You just have to do some measuring of your stock parts. Lowers may or may not be available for what you want to do. Adding a couple inches to a stock lower is easy for a good fabricator though. Add it between the spring pocket & the balljoint so you don't run into spring issues. Talk to some local racers too if you know any. It's been years since I had any involvement with street stocks but there used to be a stock Ford lower control arm that was popular with alot of Chevy guys to use on the right side because it was a couple inches longer and a bolt in relacement. Kicking the lower out tipped the tire in at the top making for better handling on those tight left turns on the short tracks. Maybe someone here will remember which ones fit. http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=ct_Suspension

 

i know it has been done before. but i have a 39 chevy pickup with a bad frame and a 89 s10 long bed truck with a bad body. i think i will get the good parts together.

 

There are no 2" longer A-arms that fit the GM metric. Stock uppers are 8.5" you can get close and play with shims. You will have to watch the cross-shaft mounting spacing as there are a few out there. And aluminum cross shafts are great for making a light racecar, however wear out and gall on the street. (I cant get more than a year out of them)

your on your own for lowers as most rules dictate stock lowers. you can always make your own, or call vendors such as UB Machine to make a custom set.

Holy Crap are Afcos's prices hi - 30% higher than everyone else.

easiest and worst solution is 2" spacers like everyone else.

 

joedoh, your c10 build looks pretty interesting and do you have any build pic's? have to be honest this must be great upgrade.

 

I have 2.5" spacers, but I wont need them for the rears because I have 10" wide 3.5" backspace wheels. however my front wheels are 8.5 wide 6 inch backspace. While the turning radius will be fantastic when rolling around as low as it is, I still want the wheels out a bit more. I have the skill and tools to widen them myself (no time of late), just wondered if there was a factory arm that bolted in as you alluded.

55 dude, I have a buildup slide show in the brave frame swappers sub forum. It has been a great use of a rolled s10 that was otherwise going to the scrapyard, and a rusty 62 that had the same fate ahead. total investment will be traditional enough, even if the finished product doesnt meet the criteria for a period correct hot rod.

 

I tried using the 4.3 TBI V6 and wiring harness when I done the frame swap. I had no luck, it never ran halfway right and troubling shooting was almost impossible. I'm now putting a small block in mine with a custom wiring harness. I'd never try to do that over again.

 

Then I would get a set of 10" uppers - that just leaves finding lowers. That gets you 1.5" per side. you can look into swapping to A-body lowers, however again, you have to re-taper the spindles. Dont remember the length of the lowers, however a call to UB Machine or Coleman Racing Products will get you the answer.

 

I sorted through most of this thread and couldn't find it, so I'll just ask.

I need to know, from anyone that has either done this with their own or with one of the kits, what is the dimension from the center of the wheel on the S10 to the center of the front cab mount.

Before anyone throws a screaming fit about asking for patented information, I'm not doing an s10 conversion, I'm doing a K5 conversion and the dimension will help save me some time.

 

82-93 F-body manifolds will work on V8 S-10 frame swaps if the engine/transmission is kept in the original location, where most manifolds will hit the frame or steering shaft. I found a set, they hug right along the exhaust ports on the head and then dump at the back. I'm going to clean them up a little and run em.

 

Did you check here?

http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/pdf/LD/LD_ST_Truck/LD_ST_Truck_pgs.pdf

~Jason

 

Yes I checked there. That is full of info on the s10 frame. Not what I need. I need information on either the original '49 frame, or info on where to put the front cab mounts in relation to the center of the front axle, irregardless of type used.

 

set you cab on the chassis with wood blocks or planks to height you want and then hang the fenders on the front and move to where you are happy,but make sure that you measure from side to side as well as front to back and to corners to make sure you have the cab square on the frame. personally i dont like the idea of the kits, cab sits to high. most set them up high on the account they dont want to cut out and build a hump on the floor. this is how i did my 57, also bolted up the hood latch panel and had enough room to clear the frame to set the grill in also. once you have the cab to where its square and to your likeing and have the rubber mounts you plan on useing you can start on your mounts. hope this helps

 

yeah, planning is only useful until the first shot is fired, so to speak. sometimes you just have to just do it, its only metal.

 

I'm always nervous of trying to measure off the front or rear suspension as its location changes as the chassis gets assembled and weight compresses the springs.
At the very least I would remove the springs, jig the chassis to ride height and mock up at least a fender to get a visual on the loaded wheel center location.
I'd much prefer to actually mock the cab as well.

One inch can make or break the look of the completed vehicle!