Technical Deuce Frame Boxing Method?

Hi folks,
What is the preferred/strongest weld joint preparation for boxing a deuce style ch***is?
Our Australian registration guidelines recommend the the flush method with a vee prep on the top or on the side between the frame and plates. I'd prefer to offset the plates outboard by their material thickness plus 1/32" to create a 1/8" x 90° vee with a gap for weld penetration. Dressing the weld later would produce a similar radius as the other side without reducing material thicknesses and also benefit from an internal penetration bead.
Thanks in advance.

 

The SO-Cal method of step boxing is a good way. Wolfes here on the hamb makes a nice boxing plate kit, that can be either flush welded or tabs ground off for the step box method. I believe the step boxing actually puts less stress on the welds.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ld-boxing-plates-shrinking-discs-more.687032/

 

If I read you correctly 'corner to corner' is what you are asking about, which is how I do it. Plates are cut to fit the inside width of the frame flanges and you set them out to provide a 90* corner to weld into.

This is a frame centre welded corner to corner. Very little dressing required. (the rest of the frame is in my album.)



But, it depends on the frame. Stock, ASC or JW?

JW rails are made already narrow by the width of the boxing plates, so you need to do them corner to corner to get the stock frame width. Well, you don't have to, but, you know...

If you are going to do the flush method , I would bevel the frame and plates 45*, their full thickness.

 

i have wondered about this too strength wise,i am a fabricator and always do the corner to corner method on other stuff for less grinding and overall appearance.i personally dont think it would be a problem if you welded super hot and properly.....maybe ring fink engineering .who will give you a proper answer concerning rules on this in nsw

 

In Australia are you required to box the frame? Or are they only giving you a recommendation if you choose to box it?

 

All relative to frame year and modifications etc. Unlike some US frames I see that have ladder style style cross members, 'A's here for example require a beefy 'K' member to remove that torsion. Our roads are nowhere as good as yours so a solid foundation is a prerequisite. A solid centre section and boxing are essential. There are minimum sized steel requirements.
Each state has its own rules and guidelines however there are now National guidelines based on this states guidelines but not every state has signed up to them. My state for example does does require a engineer to be involved, some other states do. Plus here you need to be a member of Australia Street Rod Federation (ASRF), others you don't. More added expense!. Moving states poses problems on occasions however these are not insurmountable. Each state has a technical advisory committee (TAC) and cars being built require progress inspections. This state has 3 inspection stages:-

1. Initial rolling ch***is;
2. Body on ch***is with everything opening and closing (Before tear down etc); and
3. Final and ready to register.

Many imported US built cars required modification to meet relevant state guidelines to be eligible for registration. All states differ but club (Limited / concessional) and full registration is available. Repop cars (Ch***is / body) are different again to full original steel cars.

 

You are selling your country short. I have driven all over the U.S. and can tell you, there are some very bad roads.

 

he obviously has never driven around Tulsa...rattle your teeth

 

Or driven the roads in Nebraska....

 

Try Michigan


Singlefingerspeedshop.com. Detroit

 

As far as boxing the frame I am starting to favor the So-Cal method of insetting the boxing plates inside the rails enough to leave a lip. Probably just far enough so that the brake and fuel lines are inside of the lip as viewed from above or below.

1. As far as roads in the US, we took a 11 state 5500 mile road trip last July and out of Washington, Oregon Idaho, Utah, Wyoming, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico Arizona and Nevada Nevada had consistently the best roads. That was also the only state we did not run into road repair in. Some make work program about 4 years ago had them cutting grooves in the pavement on the freeways in this state that drive you nuts with a stiff suspension.

 

Yep. For this being the home of The Motor City it's a damn shame.

 

I like a corner to corner setup like you described for strength and yes the welds will dress nicely, but for a car frame I really lean toward the plate being inset in the frame rails. I have a reason, inset leaves you a place to run things like brake lines and fuel lines and wires without running them inside the frame.

I also don't believe in welding them up solid, a staggered fillets will allow your frame to have some flex without breaking. I have run more then my share of back roads and no roads in my life and I have learned that something that is too rigid will break. Think willow in a wind storm here.

 

Thanks for your replies everyone, it gives me something to think about. I've seen the SoCal version, probably easier and convenient but not quite traditional. I'll wait and see how the authorities want it done, they have the big stick in the end.

 

What are you waiting for? Call the NSW TAC and ask the question. It's been done a million times so there really is no mystery.