I believe this may be leaking through the intake bolts as I see no other way. But I am not a mechanic. The other side is dry. Thanks for the help. Joe
Clean it up really good then keep a close eye on it after a little running or driving. It does look like it might be both oil and fuel but both are easy fixes.
If you do get it cleaned up real good, spray some dye check developer over the area, this will reveal the source of the leak
Or just pull the bolts out, clean it real good with brake clean and put some Teflon paste on the threads to seal them up.
Hello, It sure looks like oil. But the surrounding gaskets are fine and the only way it could get there, possibly, was to have the valve covers resting up there while adjusting things below. Therefore, allowing the oil drips from inside of the covers to fill up the pockets of the manifold. Jnaki But, that prospect seems plausible, although having done that with some 348 Chevy valve covers, while adjusting below, not that much oil is covering the insides of the covers. So, there is that mystery. Or, in a moment of motion while filling the motor with oil, and changing empty cans by pulling the filler tube out of the can, perhaps the metal pour spout was resting there. The remaining oil inside of the filler tube that was on the can could have been the culprit as it was sitting there for the next can to be picked up and used. This is a good game of "what-ifs..." A late night oil change in a darkened garage with minimal lights or outside in the driveway with a backyard yard light offers minimal brightness during the simple oil filling process. So, the pour spout could have been left there each time the empty can was exchanged for the new pour spout insertion... One may have over looked the residue left there after the cans and last spout was removed and the hood slammed shut... YRMV
It is definitely oil and not coming from the valve covers. So I will try removing the bolts and adding tape?
Teflon paste....is a thread sealer that is brushed on from a can or squeezes on from a tube....not tape a generous application and wipe the access....
I read the jnaki mention of an oil spout & my mind immediately visualizes probably not what he had reference to, but perhaps worthy of mention since we often here on the Hamb discuss the 'Thrilling Days of 'Yester Year'.... occupying valuable space in a too shallow draw of my roll around toolbox are (2) of the metal oil can piercing spouts used when oil was actually in a tin can, & commonly in use at scores of corner service stations..... & here we go again, back of course when service was actually provided. Finding a functioning paper towel dispenser to check our own oil is much like the greeting & smiling attendant that gleefully checked your oil, aired your tires & cleaned your windows...
Okay, I still believe it is fuel. The reasons are that the two bolts in question do not go into any oil passage in the head. In fact they are each side of the exhaust crossover. You can also see fuel stains on the intake near the rear throttle plates. Gasoline and oil are both petroleum products. Gas comes from the light end of the petroleum and oil from the heavy end. If you have a small gas leak, over time you get a varnish like substance as it evaporates. What you have is a very small leak that keeps depositing small amounts of gasoline in this area which is heated by the exhaust crossover. If you notice, it has the same general color as the fuel stain coming down from the carburetor. The last reason is that I have seen this before especially on FE engines. My suggestion is to clean it up and clean the outside of the carburetor with spray carb cleaner. Then just monitor it to see how fast it comes back. I'll bet it takes a long time.
Okay so I cleaned it all up and it probably is old fuel but has no smell. Going to take a long ride and check back in. Thanks
Are your valve covers on correctly? There is a top and bottom to them . The top has cut outs for the intake runners , allowing the valve cover to seat .
While I agree that it's mostly fuel, those 2 bolts, on each side, are notorious for weeping oil up the threads, because they are open at the bottom and are tapped directly into the lifter valley. Remove the bolts, clean with brake or carb cleaner, and re-install with some pipe dope on the bolts. Then re-seal the bottom of the carb. That should fix it. If it still leaks after that, it's time to re-bush the throttle shafts. Or... just wipe up the mess as needed.
^^^100% Correct. I was thinking worn throttle shafts too. Very common. OP, it's not wise to use thread tape on anything oil related. The tape products can shred and the pieces can end up in places that can cause big problems. Use a semi liquid/paste product like Permatex High Temp. thread sealant or equivalent.
Those center bolts absolutely will weep oil if not sealed. only the 4 corner bolts on an sbc don't go into the lifter valley. Every small block I build gets sealer on the intake bolts.
I have had that happen on my Olds. Remove the bolts one at a time, coat the threads with RTV Silicone or similar, reinstall and torque. The oil is wicking up the threads and filling the pockets on your intake. Not a biggy. When I install a manifold I squirt out some black RTV, roll the bolt threads in it and screw them in. There may be something better than permatex but I know it works.
The very best thread sealer “ I “ always go to is blue locktite . Clean the holes and bolt threads with spray cleaner , allow to dry . Apply the locktite reinstall . Done
I have a 50-70 year old can of McKay "automotive anti-seize thread sealer" Ive always used. Has the brush attached to the lid. Its a metal can .... I dont like silicone***** for bolt threads, pain in the**** to clean that sheet out/off when removed. Now , a Few more pages on sealing threads Did the OP get his fixed yet?
I pulled the bolts and wrapped them with high temperature thread sealant. Put on some miles and it appears that did the trick. Thank for all the experienced help. Joe
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