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Hot Rods Diamond T project front suspension question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flynbrian48, Apr 24, 2009.

  1. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,693

    flynbrian48
    Member

    I've got the steering mocked up in the Diamond T, after getting the correct 3/4 ton tie rod ends, which, oddly, are MUCH smaller studs than the 1/2 ton van ones (incidentally, the upper ball joint studs are much smaller as well, I had to use 3/4 ton upper ball joints in the 3/4 ton spindles on the half ton upper control arms!).

    The crossmember is narrowed 3 1/2", and I took the same amount from the center link. With the box mounted, and everything (roughly) pointed straight ahead, the pivots on the center link are about 2" further outboard than the lower control arm pivot points. I don't have another Chev van or pickup here to eyeball to see how this is all oriented as per GM, but I know I took the same amount out, as I have the chuck whacked out of the middle of the link that I'm going to weld onto the back of the link to strengthen the joint. See the photos. Incidentally, I have the new (used) tie rod ends into the adjusters with the same number of threads exposed, so I am reasonably certain the length of the link is close the correct length.

    My question is, I was under the impression that the tie rod pivot and lower control arm pivot were the same, to prevent bump steer? As I took the same amount from the crossmember and the center link, they should be in the same relation as they were under the van donor. Have I missed some important geometry lesson along the way?

    My second question concerns the vans (huge diameter) sway bar. It's also mocked up, and due to the crossmember being narrowed, is now wider than it's mounts on the lower control arms. My thought is, since there's room, to simply move the clamps out 1 3/4" per side, and motor on down the road. Am I corrrect in thinking that moving the mounts farther out on the lower control arms will reduce the effective stiffness of the bar? Or will this be increased because it'll be forced to move more as the suspension travels? The photo shows how this sets now on the arm.

    Knowing what little I do about metallurgy, I don't think heating it and tucking the ends in to narrow it is right, as I believe these are tempered.

    Any front end geometry gurus please step up and let me know if I'm on the right track (oh, that's a terrible pun :D) or wandering (I can't help it :eek:) down the wrong path...
     

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  2. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,693

    flynbrian48
    Member

    I shoulda****led this "Steering geometry", so I'll bump for evening folks...
     

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