Technical Did I fry my ignition module?

I'm hoping I can explain this. I wanted an electronic ignition but wanted the coil look. So instead of using an HEI I bought a distributor with an ignition module and an external coil.

So we dropped the distributor in at #1 tdc. Tightened the distributor down and she fired right up. Sweet.

Hey, let's set the timing right away! So I grab the timing light and proceed to clamp the positive side to the alternator (battery is in the trunk). Sparks fly, the timing light is not even grounded. Thought this was strange, I have connected the timing light like this before.

Decide to try starting the car again and nothing! WTF? Test for spark at the plug and I get nothing. Test the coil and it is functioning properly. The only thing left is the ignition module.

Could I have fried it when I tried connecting the timing gun to the alternator? Not sure how to test it to see if it is functioning properly. Don't even know how to buy one to replace it. Got this thing online...

Help!!!

 

Most parts stores sell the after market modules. They just screw in. Take your cap off and you'll see it's an easy replacement. Or GOOGLE the procedure.

 

This one has the module outside the cap...

 

While you don't mention the brand..(!?), seems your best bet would be to ask "them.." !

No idea why the timing light fried other than for some reason it shorted, I wounldn't think it would kill the module.
But apparently...something did. Seems Jegs or Summit is your friend right now (if it's a brand name ***embly).

Mike

 

pop the cover off the bottom and see what the module looks like , being its procomp , I wouldn't be suprised if its nothing more than a old style 4 pin gm HEi amp box in there .

 

looked up the ditributor in question its pro comp ( 7000 series ) with a modified GM 4 pin HEi amp module in it if you google the HEi wiring diagram you can possibly test the module using the Hei way . or adapt a better brand HEi unit into it . procomp has a online catalog for parts . http://www.procompelectronics.com/catalog.shtml

 

Yes it is 4 pin. Thanks guys!

 

1. Test for power at the pink BAT terminal. You should have battery voltage w/ the key in the start and RUN positions.


2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.


3. Remove the cap & rotor. Remove the green & white leads from the module. Connect your ohmmeter to the green & white leads. You should have approx. 800-1500 ohms depending on the ambient temperature. Open circuit (infinite ohms) = bad pickup coil.


Wiggle the green & white leads as you test. Ohm reading should remain constant if the leads are good. If the reading varies as the leads are wiggled, the pickup coil is bad. You'll often find broken pickup coil leads this way.


4. DVOM (meter) still connected to green & white leads. Set your DVOM to AC VOLTS. Have a helper crank the engine as you watch the AC VOLTS reading. A good pickup coil will produce about 3V AC when cranking. Less than approx. 2V AC indicates a bad pickup coil.


Read more: http://forums.carcraft.com/70/66176...gm-hei-ignition-module-testing/#ixzz2yg7dTWth

 

Ok, this is a weird one! After trying everything (except replacing the ignition module cause no one had one locally) I finally gave up. My buddy who was helping me accidentally left the key in acc mode and the battery wore down, it was quite low anyway.

So, yesterday I find out the battery situation and hook up the charger so it can charge all day. Late last night I take the charger off and thought I might as well check to see how fast it turns over and...... VOILA!!!! That mother f#%cker fires right up! Scared the living **** outta me cause the exhaust is not yet hooked up.

Thoughts and how this situation rectified itself, other than me being a dumb****?

 

You probably didn't have enough voltage before to fire he engine. I know I had an HEI in a pick up and if the battery was low enough it would crank but not fire.

 

I wouldn't consider this a success. Something isn't as it should be and it could leave you on the side of the road.

 

Just a quick, dumb question: Is this car still positive ground?

 

I was kind of thinking the same thing, but at least it's firing.

Autowire conversion to positive 12v.

 

I wonder if the amplifier is like the old chrysler units that when the supply voltage drops below 9.6 volts the unit shuts off , the motor will turn over just not fire . check your supply voltage to the unit and the alternator output voltage too .

 

I had a new petronics die on me not far from home. Didn't have the points with me. I stole the petronics out of another rod. I now carry a spare. Lesson learned here.