I see folks posting their engine stands home made and whatever, but I have been thinking about a similar stand to use that could be home fabricated for when you have your diff out and wanting a nice steady place to work on it at suitable height etc. I just dont seem to have any inspiration on a design that works for me so far. Does anybody out there have something they have devised that works etc? Basic is good but I'd also be interested to see any trick ones.
Used the metal base of an old washing machine. Its in the shape of a triangle and the rear end sits right in it.
I've often wanted to make a dolly to slide the rear end in and out of a car. THAT, to me, is a huge pain in the ass, trying to balance it on a floor jack, around jack stands, etc. Everyone should have a pair of saw horses outside their shop, up against the wall. Great tools for things like this. I like the idea of two engine stands, but not many people have two of them sitting around empty. -Brad
Not exactly what you asked for but sorta close...... I'm sure there are simpler devices, but I was going for flexibility. This will work for transmissions as well as third members. The arms bolt on horizontally or vertically. The first time I used it - I was very glad I took the time to make it. AS for the entire rear end - so far I'm with the other guys - saw horses or just toss it on the bench.
Two sawhorses. A furniture dolly works good to roll it around if you put the right scraps of wood on the furniture dolly first. If you roll an axle housing that has a 9" pumpkin in it so that the pumpkin is facing up, a good way to save your back when you go to lift the pumpkin out of the housing is to put the shank of a long 5/16" eye bolt in through one of the u-joint u-bolt holes in the yoke, and then lift the pumpkin out using a cherry picker.
Yes, I have been using the saw horse principle for some time and also put the diff cross ways in a box type trailer to achieve a good work height. The saw horse thing is OK for painting but it always has issues wanting to rotate forward and no real way of holding things tight when doing up bolts etc. Similar problem with front ends, although I think I have that beat by setting the axle up in a vice and holding in the center area. I have tried most everything as you can see from the pic's.
You are tlaking the whole rear end not just the differential? My pal randy has a couple adjustable stands made with Ag disks for the base and the top is done in a "V" out of 3'16" strap. Since the arms of the V are so thin they hold the axletubes when you need them to and let you turn it for welding w/o a ton of effort.
I usually just use a couple floor jack stands, but since I'm also a 4wheeler I pull axles more on my Jeep and have been intending to build something more purpose built that has wheels, and can hold the pumpkin in any position I want.
I've been thinking of using a pipefitters stand. The kind that have a chain clamp built in on one side. they also have tripod stands to support pipe further out. The clamp should keep it from rolling around but is not going to be good for a painted axle.
I saw a picture on Fordbarn of a guy using one of those for that very thing. His was a banjo rearend.
I made a rack that bolts to my Harbor "Fright" transmission Jack plate.Used two floor jacks and this rack/jack to remove rear end from the car and re-install.Never had to lift anything by hand or back!!. This Transmission jack will also lift the Rear end up high enough to place the rear end onto saw horses. When you get old you can think up these things !!! Sorry no pictures.
Vee blocks for the housing. thick plywood (4'x4') with the center cut out in the shape of the 9" 3rd member to drop into resting on sawhorses, leaving the open end on top. Just a thought.
some old homade tools that my family used to have were jack stands made from the rear end of a model T. The sides unbolted like a quickchange rear and that end sat on the ground. the were cut off and notched (V-d') near the wheel end. I hope i've still got em someplace.
Well the way I see it, everybody showed you just about all you can do. I was just thinking outside the box.
Don't over think this. I've used a big metal trashcan before. You can set the rearend on it with the pinion down inside the trashcan to rough check the pinion depth. Set the rearend on the can with the pinion supported by the rim of the can to set pinion preload. Then drop the pinion back down to set the carrier in and shim the back lash. Sometimes simple is good. Larry T
I like it, yep simple is good especially for the once in a while stuff, it is not like most of us are working on diffs daily. I like seeing what gizmoes are out there! Thanks.
Modified the frame of an old weight bench [free at tree belt supply], basically an H with fore and aft legs on each side, adjustable up and down, middle - adjustable for width as well. Pin holes for the adjustments came pre drilled. Welded a large muffler clamp beside each upright u on top to hold the housing tubes [with padding after the housing was painted] in any position. Worked well for us in tearing down, cleaning, and setting up a Ford 9" before and after shortening. Made setting up the brake conversion a lot handier as well. Kept everything secure, at a good working height, and clean during assy. No more working off a dusty floor or playing monkey football working off the workbench. Total cash outlay was for the 2 muffler clamps, some bolts for the adjustment holes, and welding supplies. I splurged and used up some rattle can paint to keep the rust at bay. Sorry no pics to post, hope you can get the concept from the description. Ed
Made this last year cause I was tired of jack stands, made it so it just sits in the wheel dolly and can be taken out without the wheels, made out of old pool fence material, cost: just my labor which is not worth a penney.....
The Jalopy Journal
