Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Different radius rod design

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Andy, May 5, 2025.

  1. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,350

    Andy
    Member

    I had hairpins on the car when first built. I decided to go to a split wishbones setup. I had tie rod clearance problems. I decided to drop the bones rather than modifying the steering arms. I decided to use Model A bones as I was making new ends. I like them better than 32-34 bones as they are shorter and slimmer.
    I cut new bungs from some bar and goosenecks from some plate. The goosenecks had extended nubs to weld to the bungs. I attached the bungs to an axle using a perch bolt to get the spacing right.
    I like the look.


    IMG_3371.jpeg IMG_3370.jpeg IMG_2054.jpeg IMG_3372.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2025
  2. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,868

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My only thought is the Ford wishbone ends and reproduction ends have enough of a lip projection to slip into the tube for better welding. Yours looks to be just a butt weld.
     
  3. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,350

    Andy
    Member

    I 100% beveled both sides and TIG welded the joint. The goose neck was drilled out so the joint to the tube was near the same thickness. This was for stress concentration concern. It has been good for 200K plus.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2025
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,287

    alchemy
    Member

    Lots of stock Ford ends had a butt weld to the tube. No protruding nose inside the tube.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.