Projects Direction change, better or worse?

Damn man! You're rolling right along looking good brother

 

I'm pushing for October

 

Looking good Alan!
I like un channeled.

 

It looks like a nice uncomplicated hotrod. I wouldn’t channel it, bunch of work for not that much result in an open car, but I was born in 1962, I didn’t live it, I am learning as I go. Your car won’t get lost at a show, that’s for sure.

 

This is truly a unique organization we belong to. A guy can usually find exactly what he wants, be it information, ideas or parts. Parts usually require cash but occasionally, you can find someone willing to trade. I had an Offy 3 x 2, @ROCKETEER 34 had an Edelbrock Super 2 x 2. We made a deal and after 2 years, I finally got the Edelbrock bolted up with the really nice 81's that my daughter and I drove from E. TN to W. TN to buy. I'm getting closer but this green, blue and maroon paint scheme isn't going to work

 

You're making me feel a little better about how I might construct the back panel on a roadster.
And thanks for the help with a possible color scheme. Not green blue and maroon.

 

Hey, if you're color blind, you may see it as appropriate colors. I am, but I'll have to agree. It's the blue end of the spectrum that's all gray to me.

So like the Stones sang, and paraphrasing slightly, I see a maroon car and I want it painted black...

 

More progress, maybe? I acquired a '28-'29 open car dash rail and a '28-29 open car dash from a two different HAMBsters. It only took two days to make and install the clips to hold the top of the dash to the cowl. Then I found out I could have bought them for $30 from a HAMB vendor after I got mine made. Took another day to get the holes to all line up. When I got everything in place, the bottom of the dash rail next to the screws hits the reveal on the dash. What's the solution for this? BTW, I know the '51 Hudson speedometer is centered in the dash and the steering wheel partially conceals it. It's okay, I wanted room for the oil, water and amp gauges right in front of me.

Here's the problem and how do I fix it?

 

Alan, I just noticed you are using a truck steering wheel, if you are going for patina, I have a 50th anniversary horn button for you, off my COE.

 

Not into "Patina". My stuff is either found, used or good

 

Sorry Alan, looks like I misled you, turns out it's broken. It has been so long since I looked at it .

 

I can make that work and if I can't, I will frame it, hang it on the wall, point it out to both of my friends and say proudly, "That came from Marty Strode" . Then I will enjoy the expressions of total bewilderment on their
faces .

 

Am I going to make this worse by cutting the bottom of the dash rail to the contour of the dash? Opinions, anyone?

 

I am 5'10"-5'11" (depends on who is measuring) 180 lbs). It is hard for me to screw into a 27 roadster.

Here is a trick if you want to keep the 27. You can cut the seat or seats into the tulip panel. Finished properly you end up with a first gen corvette look. You gain about 6-10 inches of leg/belly room. You can only do this on a turtle decked car, won't work on roadster pickup or bobbed rear car.

 

You're several months late on that suggestion.

 

Nah, someone is building a T somewhere. Maybe they can read.

 

Good point. I'm sure they'll find your months-late suggestion in an obscure thread.

 

Hey Alan, you got this thing running yet?

 

^^^^^ I had the engine running when it was in the '46 Merc. There was a problem with compression, so I had it honed, I re-ringed it and the valves and seats were ground and lapped in. Started it up on the test stand with a single carb and it ran fine. I haven't run it at all with this manifold and carb set-up. Starting to think I should concentrate on the RPU and just sell everything not related to it including the Merc, the rest of the flathead stuff, and the new 283 and all synchro 3 speed that I was going to put in the Merc.

 

When I had a 251, I found that it was very important to use the smaller liner in the gun/cable in order to prevent birdnesting. The .023 isn't very strong and needs that support around it as it travels. Hopefully you were already aware of that, but just in case you weren't............ I solved my problem by buying another smaller welder and dedicating it to .023 all the time. Too lazy to change things back and forth. Another plus when doing that is that the leads are smaller and lighter and its easier to use. My 251 got stolen years ago , so I took the insurance money and upgraded to a 350P. Great machine and way more than I need. The reason I mention that is the leads are a lot heavier duty and it makes it somewhat harder to manipulate it easily. The light duty leads on the smaller machine are a lot easier to use.....especially on thin stuff.

 

That's a really neat use for that file cabinet and a very nice machine you have on it. As for the 250 Mig machine I have, I changed liners, rollers, wire, contact tips and all, but the thing that fixed it was cutting that "hot start" diode. I took inventory the other day and I have entirely too many welding machines. I think I'm going to sell off all my stuff and get by with the bare necessities.

 

I'm not familiar with the "hot start" diode or what you mean by "hot start". Can you clue me in?