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No worries Gene, I appreciate the offer. I also thought I had 2 distributors in the garage. One lean burn and one electronic. The electronic one had a bent shaft causing the reluctor to hit the pickup. I sure can’t find them. I was going to see how much run out they have.
Dan

 

The EFI obd2 distributors have tabs that only allow the distributor to sit in one position. As said, they only are used to tell the system that the cam is operating correctly. The only distributing the distributor did on modern stuff was distribute the spark to the cylinder the wire took it to. Since about 2010, there is no distributor, each cylinder has its own coil.

 

Keep the MOPAR talk coming I’ve learned a bunch in the last few pages. Thanks all

 

Thanks for the heads up. I think I have the leak fixed.
Dan

 

Here's a bunch of pics of the tool. I never had one and had to do the valve body drop to fix the one in my car.
https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/tf-727-how-to-shift-lever-seal-replacement.45023/

 

With the electronic ignition distributor, the run out has to be pretty bad before things make contact. All the bushings have to do is keep the shaft turning true because nothing is loaded against the shaft. If you need one, I probably have 3 of them here.

Several of the old point and early electronic distributors have a plastic spacer pinned on the shaft at the bottom of the distributor housing. I have seen several of these with the plastic spacers cracked, have at top edge worn, or gone completely. If its gone, or worn, it allows the shaft to move up and down in the distributor housing. That can damage the rotor, wear the slot in the cam gear, wear the slot tips on the shaft, cause the points to move up and down as the rubbing block moves against the cam lobe on the shaft, and even cause a drag on the mechanical advance weights under the point plate.

 

Hey Gene,

Would love to have you come to Lloydfest IV!

I am embarr***ed to say that the reason I had to show up at the 4th of July race in London, Ky without Stubby to have the match race with Lloyd is because I had just done custom wires on my 64 GP (opposite direction firing order) & made Stubby's wires shortly after...You know what happened! LOL
It happens & the older we get/The more important things in our lives sometimes fog the easiest things we remember from our past to slip away sometimes!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

"Not weird, but not normal either".
LOL Dan. That pretty much describes most of the girls I dated in college

 

Me too,but they were fun!

 

What are you guys saying, you’re beginning to scare me
Dan

 

LOL. They were all fun...except for the one Psychology major that claimed all of my cars and guitars were the result of having "little ***** syndrome"

 

That’s funny
Dan

 

Torqueflites tend to drain back more than most transmissions. They have check balls to prevent it, but every Torqueflite I've had would drain back if you let it set for more than a few days; some just overnight.

 

@jaracer does this look correct?
Thanks
Dan

 

Yes.

 

Thanks
Dan

 

Bill, I made it to Lloydefest the first year, but then life got in the way on #2 & #3. Things are not shaping up very well for this year either. Fall is sort of a difficult time of the year for us, we have several inconsistent, but reoccurring events in a very short time frame, that occupy our time and resources during the fall time.

 

Oh no,the dreaded L.P.S.!

 

Finished up the heater housing, amazingly all the controls work smoothly. Had to make new seals also.
Worked on the fuse block some of the fuse holders had some minor rust. After I figured out how to pop the metal holders out of the block it simplified the clean up process.
Dan

 

Nice!!

 

I need to find some hose for the defrost vents. Also cleaning up the defrost vents, UV damage, the louvers collapsed. Chiseling and grinding out the old louvers I think I’ll us pop sickle sticks glue them in and paint.
Dan

 

I'd check resto places, but that's a hit or miss part. Nothing OE of course. That applies to both hose and vents.

 

I thought that I could use some old shop vac hose I have, it’s 1-1/2 inch and I need 1-7/8 and 2-1/4 might have to make it work. I could order some from McMaster Carr. It’s easy to get to so I can install anytime after the dash is in.
Dan

 

While cleaning up my workshop yesterday, I came across a box. Wondered what was inside. It was full of plastic fittings and flex hoses for wood dust extraction. Might also be an option.

 

YIKES
The red and black wire go to the ammeter. Someone spliced into the main power to the switch. They separated the strands of the main hot wire and the twisted and taped.
Dan

 

Haha! , but is that a Deutsch style (grey) connector I see in the bs ground?

 

I’m going to byp*** the ammeter, need to buy a 14 and 16 amp fusible link.

 

I should have warned you about the ammeter run and the MAD electrical fix. Check older posts, or I can explain. Good Catch!
@Ziggster , nope, that is an old mopar open 2 wire connector. No rubber grommets in that one.

 

Rod you did warn me, I’ve got the MAD diagram I can get fusible links at NAPA
I’m also going to use a two pole single throw switch for the ignition and a bush ****on for start I think. It’s what I’ve been using.
Thanks
Dan

 

Good. Even factory, they they weren't designed for 30+ years of use, let alone 60 years and ABUSE.
Would be a good idea to disconnect that bulkhead connector and clean all the terminals. After the amp wiring, the headlights and starter are next.