Actually, the Sure Grip went away some time between 69 and 71. It was replaced by the "limited slip" diff. The true Sure Grip took something like 75 ft-lbs of torque difference between the two sides to unlock, that was great for racing, but not so great on slippery roads. I remember more then a few times the Sure Grip in a few of my older Mopar's wouldn't release on the snow covered roads and I had a really hard time turning the car, the locked rear end wanted to just keep pushing the turned front tires. "They" claimed that a slow figure 8 in a parking lot would cure that, but it was pretty hard to find a cleared parking lot in the winter, that would clear enough to release the clutch pack. The Limited Slip would pretty much grab both wheels, but really didn't lock together until the torque difference exceeded a specified torque range. I'm sure someone will be along with better info. That worked much better in the snow, and it also worked better than an open rear end in the performance arena. I suspect that was another government driven decision handed down during the high performance era, because all the factory locker rear ends kind of disappeared from print at about the same time frame.
Replacing all the tie rod end, ball joint etc boots, also installing poly bushings. I did find a bad pitman arm, lower ball joint drivers side, upper ball joint p*** side. Pretty much ruined the pitman arm puller, it spread and the threads are getting bad. Made a cut in line with the splines - nothing made a cut about 90* from first cut nothing. Pounded wedges in the cuts and the pie shaped piece popped still wouldn’t budge. Really hard to get to but I made another slice about 180 from the first one finally it came about 1/2 way off it broke in two. Oh I installed the puller last night torqued up and sprayed with kroil, usually works NOT this time. Got the drivers side stuff painted waiting on ball joints and will install bushings and boots tomorrow and paint p*** side stuff. Dan
Removed most everything, cleaned and painted all the parts, removed the p***enger side upper ball joint. What a pain they are screwed in. Couldn’t get it to budge with my 18” Cresent and BFH. So I welded a junk socket on to the ball joint and used my impact. Dan
One of the previous owners applied a popcorn type undercoating/bed liner to the drivers side wheel well I’ll try to replicate on the p***enger side. Next I’ll paint the inside fenders and undercarriage in battleship grey. Spray some fluid film in areas that I can’t paint and call it good. Only some light surface rust on the undercarriage in spots. The car is very clean.
I don’t miss my job got too political towards the end I do miss the guys and my access to the machine shop however. I don’t know how I got anything done when I was working. It ain’t work if you’re having fun Dan
My first job out of Eng school was at the General Motors Diesel Division plant where they made the Light Armoured Vehicle (LAV). Starting out I was blown away they were making this thing from basically scratch. Six months later I couldn’t believe anything rolled out the door. lol! It was a quick introduction into office politics, and I only lasted 3 yrs.
15 trim holes welded shut, 15 more to go and I’ll be done welding holes I think there will be 60 holes welded total. Lloydfest is coming fast, got a lot to do yet. Dan
Lloydfest is in Kentucky I plan on pics and videos. A couple Lloydfest threads https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lloydfest-iii-september-5th-7th-2025.1329162/page-25 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lloydfest-iv.1348332/ Dan
Can’t recall exactly, but I think I saw someone lately use a magnet and copper, but the copper would sometimes get stuck to the weld.
A dent in drivers door needed attention so I made a hillbilly puller, most of the dent popped right away. I had a back up board on the inside so I squeezed more of the dent out. While the boards were pulled up I used a chisel to work more of the dent out. As it is I could get by with a 1/16 or so of filler. However tomorrow I can have my son Nic hold a dolly or I’ll hold the dolly and we will hammer almost all of the dent out. Dan
Got the rest of the holes filled, moved the drivers side door mirror back 1-1/2”, now I’ll climb underneath and do a little painting. Good thing about grey paint is it matches my hair. Dan
Don’t fret over the dent man, no big deal , I can’t believe how easy it popped. How ya doing? Looks like ya all are having some brutal heat. My son flew to Midland for work this week I told him he picked the wrong time of year to go to West Texas. Dan
Glad it wasnt to hard of a repair. Ive been good, just looking after the family & messing w my projects as time allows. Heat is miserable but Im used to it.. Its the damn 600$ electric bills I hate the most ! Hope you are well, looks like you're making the most of retirement.
I like the comment about the gray paint being the same as your hair. The last job I worked was at a friend’s construction company and I sprayed a lot of Cat yellow and Case orange, well a hat can only cover so much.
The ball joints, and pitman arm showed up to today, I bought from Kanter. I was checking parts to make sure that what I ordered is what I need. Wouldn’t you know it, the upper ball joint is to big -won’t screw into the control arm- Called Kanter sure enough I ordered / got the wrong one, there were several listed their site did say it would fit my Dart. Of course After talking with the gentleman at Kanter he emailed me a RMA# and said the correct ball joint would ship Monday. No extra charges even though the correct part is a few more $s. I’m very satisfied. Gives me more time to clean and paint underneath. Dan
You know from buying the car to purchasing all the parts and pieces I’ve dealt with top notch people, I’m lucky I guess. Dan
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