Hey peeps, wondering if anyone has painted anything froum our years with Sungate Ivory from PPG (Omni)? I did all the research, used the correct PPG number for Sungate Ivory and ended up with "yellow" wheels, not ivory...pretty much the color of masking tape. The number I used is PPG# 80090. Not that it matters in the least, but the epoxy primer is gray. so, I'll bring a wheel to the paint shop that mixed it, and have them pull out the paint chip book again...it aint gonna match! So, now I'm sure I get to buy another $32 pint of paint and spend the weekend stripping the wheels..."again"! ...unless they look a hell of a lot lighter when I get them out in the sunlight. My wheel http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=18551&pictureid=201263 Comparison pic found on the web http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=18551&pictureid=201264 Let me know your results if you have any... Thanks. Mark
Here's how it works: Most paint suppliers do not have the means to fullfill formulas for "original" colors back as far as our cars go. They have the formula, but the toners and materials have changed so the original formula is meaningless. So, manufacturers select an "acceptable subs***ute" color from modern paint chips and use the new color formula when they cannot locate or fullfill the original formula for the old color. Sometimes the subs***ute color is acceptable, and sometimes it is not...in terms of being close to the original. It sounds like the paint you got was mixed according to the manufacturer's "acceptable subs***ute" formula. You should have been informed of this by the paint store. If not, I think you've got a legi***mate gripe. If you were told that an acceptable subs***ute formula was going to be used and are unhappy with the result, I'd take the wheel, the paint, the original paint chip and the invoice back to the paint store and compare all the paint chips with the wheel. It could be that the paint you got was incorrectly mixed and will not match the chip (the current chip for that formula, not the old chip for the old formula). If that's the case the paint shop will certainly supply you with new, properly mixed paint at no charge. It could also be that the "acceptable subs***ute" formula is not acceptable...so far off the original that it's not even close. It happens. In this case, it might be best for you to find another modern color which is closer to the original than the factory-recommended acceptable subs***ute color. Surely the paint shop will let you go through their chip books looking for a better match. He may be willing to help, but don't expect him to do the looking for you. In any case, you can re-coat your wheels without stripping. Just scuff them down with a 3M pad and re-coat. You've already done the hard work. You don't need to do it again. Good luck! PS: ALWAYS compare colors outdoors under two conditions: in open shade (shade unaffected by light reflected from nearby buildings, signs, etc.) and in bright sunlight. Indoor comparisons are always invalid because all indoor lighting has a "color temperature" which will effect the way your eyes perceive color.
Damn, Missy'sdad! Now THAT is some good info! I had no idea that's how things worked with old colors...and no, "Phil" at the paint shop didn't mention anything about anything. I brought in a color code and he went to town...I didn't even SEE a paint chip book. I'll bring the left over paint and a wheel in to them tonight or tomorrow night. Being honest, I have to say I don't know the first thing about painting cars, I mean "really painting" cars. I'm a rock star with a paint bomb and anything else, but that's it. My buddy who painted my wheels, has actually had two cars he's done featured in Barret Jackson and Me*** Auto auctions, so I know he did it right...lol. But when he called me last night and said, "man, I can't see you painting the roof of your car to match these wheels...", my heart sank, since the the tires have been in the tire shop for over a week now and I'm DYING to get them on! He sent me a pic via ceel phone, and just keep the mood light, I replied with, "What the hell did you paint my wheels yellow for?" lol... Anyway, Some seriously good info, thank you. And I'll make sure to get them out in the sunlight and shade for true comparison. My buddy also said I (which you confirmed, missy'sdad) that i don't have to strip them again to the bare metal, just scuff them good and he can reshoot them if neccessary. Thanks.
Once again Eric, you provide very in-depth information in a way that everyone can understand. I think i can speak for everyone when I say you are an incredible ***et to the forum. Thanks again.
Hey Mark. just another thought.. if you want ivory wheels... cheap and easy.. go check out the 1shot color Ivory. Sign painters lettering enamel aka pinstriper's paint. they come in quarter, half and full pints.. you can reduce them 1 to 1 with mineral spirits (you can buy the mineral spirits at any hardware store or walmart CHEAP!) and the paint store should have 1shot. the ivory is a good true, traditional ivory. it just might be an Acceptable Subs***ute for the factory color you want... shoot it out of a regular paint or touch up gun and voila.. it's good durable paint, nice gloss too! xoxo
Well I picked up the wheels and when I got them out in natural light...by God I think they're actually the correct color! I have to remember that the roof (being whiter) has been on the car for 57 years... It's definitely a "creamy" color, which I don't mind now that I see it. They look pretty close the way the old paint looked before I stripped it all off...so I think I'll just go with it. Come next spring, if I hate, I'll re-do the wheels and the roof...not a big deal. And thanks for the tip Doll! I think I'm going to go and do what you suggested anyway, just for comparison! Mark
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