Disc brake conversion kit

I recently purchased a disc brake conversion kit for my 1950 Chevy hardtop coupe. My question is, do I need a different master cylinder? If so,can someone guide me in the right direction? Will anything from a S10 work?

 

The correct master cylinder will need the correct bore size to supply the correct pressure. It will also need the correct length to provide the right amount of volume plus some reserve. It would also be nice to have a mount that works in the stock location or a new place.
The original MC will not work in most cases. It should be a newer than 1950 with dual reservoirs and dual circuits.
The S10 is a guess, but just a guess. If possible, I'd contact the kit seller and ask what it's designed to use. If that's not possible, you are going to have to do some math or find another kit that uses the same parts.

 

well....it probably will work, if you remove the residual pressure valve.

But if you want to replace it with a dual cylinder, make sure to set it up so the master cylinder gets full travel. The original single cylinder will not have as much travel as a dual cylinder. You have to deal with this, because if you don't, the new dual cylinder won't get full travel, and the "dual" function won't work. You might as well keep the original, if you don't change the pedal stroke to work properly.

If you buy an aftermarket pedal/mount ***embly, make sure it has full master cylinder stroke.

have fun!

and don't tell anyone I have this master cylinder in my Corvette with 4 wheel aftermarket disc brakes. Firewall mount master cylinders are easier to deal with than your underfloor cylinder, though.

 

Wilwood? Brembo? or generic Ebay ****?
We cant guide you in the right direction by taking wild guesses

 

It came from speedway motors.

 

What are the calipers??? Are they GM style calipers ? [low drag calipers ????]
Caliper bore size ? rotor size?
Pedal ratio?
Booster or not?

If you ended up with low drag calipers you will need a stepped bore [quick uptake] master cylinder
Or you will end up with a "low pedal bleeding" nightmare.

A quick check of GM calipers for the bleed screws .metric usually means low drag [but with Chinesium repops anything is possible]


As for your first question

The whole purpose of a disc brake conversion is added safety!
A tandem M/C is also for added safety [I would consider a tandem M/C conversion more of a priority than a disc conversion]

 

Likely the same as my mike Garcia kit. 70 Chevelle calipers and 70 Camaro rotors. I used a manual master cylinder from a 76 c10 that worked nicely on my 53 bel air

 

I used a scare bird kit on a ‘50 Plymouth with S10 calipers. Pulled the RPV out of the front circuit and installed a 2# RPV in the line and it stopped great with a perfect pedal.


Make sure you have the right brake kit, as the common kit they sell for the Chevy spindles say on the kit, not for factory cars. They are for lack of a better term hot rod brakes only.

speedway makes an under floor brake ***embly for ‘49-54 Chevys so that’s how you can go dual master and have it bolt in

 

My kit is from speedway

 

Yup. Speedway uses Metric calipers. Not quite the same as an S10 caliper but there is nothing too drastic about either kit to make them not comparable.

 

Speedway also has kits that use the '70's bigger calipers.

Gary

 

I just checked. Kit for actual 49-54 Chevy uses 73-77 gm intermediate calipers. So not metric

 

I used speedway discs on 39 ford and had to modify brackets to make them work. Speedway was no help in explaining why.