Technical Disc brakes grind when hot?

Possibly, but the pad looks thin. Could you be down to the wear-out tang?

 

Have to agree, it's the pads, have had some noisy brakes, my wife tells me(she has good hearing) and I have changed the pads, scuff the glaze off rotors and all was good, also have run drilled/slotted rotors, same deal, pads caused the problem

 

Pads are thick still, it's hard to see in the pic.

 

Jim that is to let you know they are still working.

 

Just leave lots of following room, and try not to brake much. You can fix it when you get home. Good luck on Drag Week.



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Just took the other side apart do to the same grind. All you have to do is punch the upper tabs down so that it holds the pad up higher in the caliper. If you just install them without pinching the tabs down the pad drops down on top of the rotor.

 

thanks...mine I did bend the tabs, and the one side I took the wheel off to look at, there is plenty of clearance at the lower tab and hub. I am thinking it might just be the pads. I'm not going to worry about it now, the truck still drives fine.

 

Back in the truck for the long drive home. Making noise more often. Stopped at a parts store bought some 40 buck ceramic pads. Here is a pic of the old ones.

 

Those look highly metallic, the ceramics should be quieter.
And congratulations on the win!!

G***er A/Gas

Winner: Jim Forbes – 10.445 ET, 130.764 MPH

 

The old pads look like you spent a number of miles on dirt roads or on roads with fresh gravel which has grit that raises havoc with brake pads along with the heat cracks. Those would probably be good for a lot of miles if they were sanded down and used on a lighter car that didn't tow.
Years ago I had to clean up and sand off the pads on a customer's car several weeks in a row because she drove a couple of miles each way on a dirt road to get to her house. The dealership owner finally told her enough was enough and we couldn't keep removing the dirt every week just because she lived on a dirt road and the dirt made the brakes noisy.
I'd agree that the cheaper softer lining and pads often give a better brake feel and are usually quieter. They don't last as long or have the fade resistance but often produce less complaints from the customers who are prone to complain about brake noise.

 

Congrats on the win! Enjoy the trip home

 

Too bad they ground when you got them. Maybe you should ungot them

 

had alot of problems with raybestos pads a couple/few years ago, the odd set would come back after a week or two sounding like metal on metal.

 

Making noise again. What fun.

 

Bummer

 

Try the drilled and slotted rotors. Those pads are getting hot. Mainly when your towing stuff to make those brakes heat up. Maybe want to make sure that trailer brakes are working to. Ceramic pads are good for less dust pretty much but they will be good on those rotors im mentioning you will get more life out of those pads

 

I would try some Nonasbestos organic pads and if you can try to readjust the brake bias to more rear brakes (or larger rear wheel cylinders). Are the rotors also getting heat checked like the pads?.

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...-pads/duralast-brake-pads/353656_420829_6961/

 

You need to cut or replace the rotors, the old pads were glazed and badly heat checked.

 

I think so. I need new rotors, these are getting thin. Close to min thickness.

 

I'm wondering if the combined weight of the truck, trailer and race car is just too much for the stock Camaro brakes. Back in the days when the Camaro was THE car to race on the asphalt short tracks, all those guys would use a 75 Impala spindle to get the better brakes. While they were at it, they bought a threaded sleeve to weld in the A-frames, reamed the spindles, and converted over to bigger Chrysler screw-in ball joints. I'm not sure if it was done this way because it was just cheap and available, or if the rules said they had to use "stock" parts. They were running 5 on 5 wheels anyway, so this was a good swap for them. I know you are going to want to keep your wheels, so this is not going to work for you, exactly, but you get the idea.
I'm fairly sure there is a different combo using a later model Caprice spindle that will give you similar results, and still keep the 5 X 4 3/4 bolt pattern hubs, but I dont know the specifics. I'm sure you are resourceful enough to find out the info, if you are interested.
I'm out of that loop now, so I'm not sure how they are doing it today, but it probably involves a phone and a credit card to somebody like Baer, " Send me some better stuff".
Good Luck

 

Good point on the better brakes for a tow vehicle, just not enough surface area to spread out the heat. Plus the pads today, not exactly as good as they were 20 years ago, unless you go to a semi-metallic that are tougher on rotors.

I have a 2012 Malibu, great car but the brakes ****. 57k miles, I'm into my 3rd set of pads and just did a rotor & pad upgrade. I'll know how better it is in about 10k miles if the pedal doesn't pulsate.

 

funny you should mention Baer, because I won a free brake setup from them at the Drag Week awards ceremony drawing! I also know one of the guys there.

the brakes worked fine for a couple years, puling the same car on the same trailer. It will get me home, I'll worry about it tomorrow

thanks for all the suggestions, guys!

 

Congrats on another drag week win Jim.

 

Congrats on drag week, forgot to mention in my previous comment on noisy brakes, today's pads, I'm told by mechanic friends that if you are real easy on brakes, they tend to glaze over and make noise, I/we fall into that group. I have known guys that replace front brakes in 10/12K and *****, others like myself, usually run 70/80K before front replacement on drivers, hobby cars Alot less, thinking sitting time and usually put a performance type pad in and have switched to basic cheap pads (not high performance) w/ better results in noise problem.

 

The thinner the steel the faster it's get's to high temperatures. Then add further m*** into the equation equal's greater friction causing ?

 

My 14' OT [explorer] bought new vehicle [4 wheel disc] needed brakes at 5600 miles...Rear rotors replaced, fronts turned, new pads..Cause they said was rotors rusting from lack of use [car sat all winter, saw no road miles, snow,salt, etc] and chewing up the pads but there was no noise till few miles before I took it in and from the rears...This was only two winters..My 05 [ford] Truck made it through nine winters [25k miles] in same scenario and had no issues what so ever..Both vehicles stored outside year round...I brought that up and just got a shrug of shoulders and got told it is new england and the vehicles are different..I say there is a quality issue in either pads or rotors and I'm still waiting to hear back from Ford..Any thoughts?

 

GM that used to have great brakes went to **** about 1990. My wife had a nice '92 Regal, a really sharp car and she loved it, but the brakes ****ed so bad that there was a cl***-action suit over them. Think we wound up with $150 out of it. Front pads are about 1/2 the surface area of my old '84 Chevy wagon, the rears were a total joke. I had an Altima, a 2002 that blew through front brakes. That car had a solid rotor, no venting.

My idea on a fix, go for the upgraded rotor and pad packages.