I’m looking for some advice about converting my ‘56 Townsedan to disk brakes. My drum brakes fade really bad because I live on a hill. I’m practically riding the brakes for about the mile and half drive down to the main road. My car has the original Fordomatic and has no way to shift to second. I either have to shift it to first and drive really slow or ride the brakes in third. I’ve gone through the brakes and have them adjusted right. I’ve overheated them nearly every time to where I smell them. I bet the shoes are toast. I just can’t go through replacing them after a few drives. This has been an issue since getting the car about 10 years ago. I haven’t put much mileage on it. I’d like to enjoy it more but the brakes are limiting that. I’m looking to use a kit that all I need to do is just swap the parts. I’ve seen a few different ones ranging from around $900 and up. I’ve read that the drums on this car are more than adequate and in some cases the disk brake conversions are worse. This is the only car I’ve had brake issues in the 26 years I’ve lived where I do. I had a 51 Cadillac that was a heavier car with the original brakes and never had any brake issues. I’m not sure what to really do other than convert the brakes which is why I could really use some advice. Thanks in advance.
Yes it’s tough coming down a hill if you can’t maintain at least 20 mph so it will stay in 2nd gear. I would work with your trans shifting a little more as even with discs you will have the same problem. There are kits to keep your same ride height and fit your stock spindles. I installed non-power Wilwood kit with their Master Cylinder but it is on the expensive side. They are a professional brake company located in Ventura Ca. With many years of racing and street brakes. They are a 4 piston caliper style. You can also part out what you need but beware of Chinese parts if possible. Many use GM or Ford dual masters made for combo disc/drum cars of the 70-80’s which are fine. GM metric calipers are very good but I don’t know who currently makes the bolt on brackets. Scarebird did but I’m not sure they are still in business I believe Larry’s Thunderbird in Corona Ca., Concours in Carson City Nv., Dennis Carpenter, and C&G Parts in Escondido Ca. are a few who offer complete kits.
I’m trying to understand what you mean about working with the transmission shifting a little more. I think I wouldn’t need to use the brakes as much if I could keep the transmission in second going down hill. I really dislike the Fordomatic for this since it starts in second and then it goes into third the moment it gets a little more speed. The only time it starts in first is if I mash the gas pedal. I would have been happy with a manual in this car but I wanted an automatic so my wife could drive it if necessary but as it is she won’t drive it. I definitely avoid any Chinese parts for anything in my cars. It’s either OEM or OEM suppliers for parts. There aren’t many aftermarket parts manufacturers these days that I trust. I have no problem using the original single pot master cylinder. I’ve never had any serious issues with them. The few problems I’ve had were easy to spot before they got serious. I prefer a kit to parting it. I always seem to end up missing too many parts and then waste too much time trying to scrounge them up. I’ve looked over a few of the kits some had terrible installation instructions. Whoever I decide to use will need to have really good support if I need it. I’ve done business with many of those guys over the years for odds and ends. Most seem to carry the same parts for about the same price. They only vary on shipping costs. The brakes are going to be my fall/winter project.
If you want US made parts it's gonna cost more bar none. US OEM are not all made in the US anymore. Not even Napa stuff unfortunately. One place that comes to mind is https://abspowerbrake.com/ Or https://mpbrakes.com/product-catego...IlHL8i_NbJs3FrgVCWcjl6Gcoe3pRpfhQrO4Bq-7DSfSJ Another https://westernch***is.com/1954-56-...MEc7xdqyeEVeAODeIKCz_RZ9SQPWKwfqt72Mb8k4dwHWL whomever you choose. I would highly suggest you use their Recommended Master cylinder and let them know what you are running at the rear.
Bleach… if your in drive and it’s in 3rd or high gear and let’s say at 40 mph you move the shift lever to low the transmission should go to 2nd gear and stay there until you drop below 15-18 mph if your not hard on the gas. It’s how you keep it in 2nd. If you start in L from a stop and accelerate to 30-40 move the shift lever to D the transmission goes into 2nd, immediately put the lever back in L and now your holding 2nd gear and it will stay there until you slow under 15-18 mph if correctly working.
I appreciate the extra links. I'll be able to compare the different kits to see what each one includes and their complexities. I didn't know this was possible but then I haven't really driven it a lot. The problem I encounter when driving down my hill is that there are a lot curves going down and I end up slowing down below 15 mph on each one. I don't know what the grade percentages are that I'm hitting. I nearly lose all braking by the time I reach the bottom of the hill because of the overheating and fade. The car otherwise stops very well on level or mostly level ground.
Bleach if you practice you can really at the anticipation of the trans going into 1st from 2nd right at 15-18 and quickly move the lever up holding 2nd, then you slowly accelerate and shift back into L holding 2nd…. My dad was super at this with both of our 55 and 56 Fords with automatics. We had a cabin in the mountains at 5000 feet and came down to almost sea level hundreds of times…
If I can master that then it would save me a lot of money and time. I'll have to give it a try before the weather turns really bad. It's already kind of stored for now but all it would take right now is to fill the tank. I drain it when I won't drive it for a while.
Unless you drain the tank for safety reasons try PRI-G gas treatment put some in an ot car I don't drive much. Finally drained it after sitting for a year and it still looked and smelled good so I put it in my daily. Use it on all my cars that aren't driven much.
Here's some good reading on how to improve the drum brakes and conversion to disc. HRP Drum Brakes - chopd top's thread on drum brake auto-adjust upgrade (using Mustang parts) If you need further information on doing this contact him by "conversation" he has quit the Group and blocked me because of a post he saw as political,which you probably should not mention. https://www.performanceonline.com/brake-shoes-rear-1964-72-ford-mustang/ and https://www.performanceonline.com/brake-shoes-front-1964-71-ford-mustang/ Power Brake booster install: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145936&page=7 Disc Brakes Front, Use Granada parts (requires minor spindle modification)(need link) Rear, Lincoln Versailles (very rare) Consider Ford Explorer 8.8" rear end swap comes with locker and disc brakes not expensive. https://www.performanceonline.com/1937-72-ford-car-brakes-brake-parts/ Disc brake kits and power brake boosters using Granada or Camaro parts and modified spindles can be found on Ebay. Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Sadly the member that posted this on youtube removed it,sharing it has helped a lot of guys over the years we thank him for sharing it while it lasted but sure wish he would have left it up. This may help in the meantime see post #6 here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tonight-i-am-not-happy.1103171/#post-12515347 with a 1952-56 you will need a 20" section of 3/16" brake line for the new line you will be adding and some adapter fittings.
Great stuff HRP I can research. There’s probably something wrong with the brakes since they fade so badly. Maybe the shoes got ruined when I overheated them from previous drives. They were very dark and glossy when I had them apart. I sanded the gloss off and put them back together but it only helped a short time. If Jimmy sixes dad could drive down hills there should be no reason I can’t. Thanks for taking the time to respond and post such valuable advice.
I also have an OEM type Midland brake booster that was used on 55-56 Fords. I haven’t got around installing it since I haven’t found any good diagrams or photos of the steel lines that I need. I’ve looked for reproduction lines as well with no success. I have a feeling it won’t help with my brake fade issue.
Concours Parts sells a complete Midland booster kit with all of the lines and hardware to install it. I don't know if they sell the lines and hardware separately.
I didn’t see anything in their online catalog, only the entire kit with the booster and bracket. I’ll try calling them.
Call Frank at Prestige Thunderbirds in Santa Fe Springs, California also. He installs these on disc brake conversions to only work on the front discs. I’ve talked to many of his customers and they are very pleased on how they work.
This is the company mentioned in the Sticky https://www.performanceonline.com/1954-56-ford-car-mercury-car-disc-brake-conversion-kit/ This company has supplied members for a long time with brake conversions and gl***, they have always stood behind their products, might be a good idea to call and have a conversation with them. https://www.autocitycl***ic.com/p**...plete-disc-brake-conversion-granada-spindles/
If I had to do my car again, it would be using a Wilwood kit. Buy once, cry once. My car is non power and I use a simple CPP distribution block, nothing fancy. Master is a Mustang/Fairlane style from Speedway. I did have to make up some lines sourced from Napa.
Thanks for the replies! I had to take a break from everything since my last post because of a bad case of the flu.
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