Technical Distance from firewall to axle on a model a?

I've been looking around in just want to double check but in order to run a small block chevy it seems that the distance from the firewall to the front axle is about 41 inches. Would that be correct?

 

The distance from the firewall to the front axle makes no difference whether you're running a 4 banger, a flathead v8, a small block chev or any other v8.

You can fit a small block in a Model A with reasonably limited modifications to the firewall.

 

Ok. I guess I'm asking, where is the axle located in relation to the firewall. I have searched and for some reason when people post Numerical measurements is nonsense just random symbols and numbers. I think I have been able to decipher that on average the front axle is 40 inches from the firewall.

 

In the process of building a frame. So I'm trying to plan out where to put my front axle.

 

Pics. This is one hours worth of work today.

 

I just measured that on Friday but I can't remember exactly but it was much lower than 40" . Ill double check for you in about an hour but I'm thinking its like 34 with a little 2" tunnel for the dizzy to the center of cross member.

Those squares are good for 9" not 9 feet. Be careful

 

Funny you say that because in 3 inches I am making a pie cut to bring the frame rails inward. So I only need it to be square for three inches. Haha. I did measure from corner to corner and it measured perfectly square. First frame I've built. I'm nervous.

Thanks 31vicky.

 

just measured my 29 cc p/u my meas. is 29"+/- face of firewall to center of axle.
http://www.wescottsauto.com/SubIndexes/Techindex.html

 

Best way to make sure your frame is perfectly square is to measure it diagonally. I used to do this in the boilermaking trade all the time.

Just get a tape (make sure you use the same tape side to side, obviously as some tapes can be out / if you've dropped it and the tape end is bent it'll give a different measurement) and hook it onto each end, and measure across to a datum (reference) point on the front.

When i did my Model A's chassis (original with added crossmembers / boxing) i hooked onto the rear crossmember edges, and went across to the centre of the front rivet on the front crossmember. Using a point like that that is the same on both sides, if your chassis is within 1 - 2mm it'll be close enough.

 

Yup. That's what I did. Within 1/16th of an inch.

 

Get a WESCOTT AUTO RESTYLING catalog, look in the back, All the info you ever need and more.
your gonna need parts anyway. Damascus, Oregon... google for 800 number

yer gonna thank me,,, man up don't be scared

 

check post #8 there's the link.

 

These are all set up for spring over axles

Ok, my blown hemi with a 3" belt is at 34" from firewall to center of crossmember.
The firewall is reveresed so FW sits be hind the cowl
.

This one is also measures 34 from firewall to center of crossmember. but I moved the crossmember forward 2" purely for wheel to grill relationship aesthetics, 32" would be enough and where it was before the adjustment.



This one isn't set yet, but I've deemed 32" from firewall to CL crossmember is where it's going.
It's a rpu so it gives me leeway to adjust the body back and forth.



That's what I got

 

Here is the frame dimensions: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1928-31.pdf

 

Thanks everyone. I printed out westcots picture earlier today. just wanting to get 10 different answers so i can average them out. Beings as I am going to be running a slightly longer engine (4bt diesel, i know not hamb approved) i think I am going to settle on 34" from the firewall to the axle center. The engine from my research is 30.6" and That should allow me the space to have the axle/radiator lined up nicely. Doing the 3" rise in the back. 2" drop axle up front. 3 inch channel on the body. Hopefully it gets me a stance that I am happy with. wish me luck! and thanks again.

 

Honestly if you want to keep it proportionately nice looking, put the body and radiator in the ORIGINAL spots.. And you said you were going to run a small block but now talking about a diesel?

Keep the body and radiator in the original place, and whatever engine you choose fit it in there. You'd be better off recessing the firewall than making the car look cartoonish.

 

X2

 

Maybe it's just me; but I have always completed the frame rails first, then assembled them with the crossmembers. Easier to build the rails straight and symmetrical this way.

 

Yes rich I have seen it done that way also. I plan on doing the same thing but differently. By using a extra piece of tubing clamped to the main frame rail for a guide to keep the rear frame horn parallel with the frame rail. On paper it should work.

 

I will be putting about 1.5 inches of recessed into the firewall in building D transmission tunnel after the engine and transmission is in the car so I can keep the engine as far back as possible I do hope to be within 2 inches of the factory radiator and axle location.

 

Not totally off topic Cummins had a motor in Nascar in the 50s

They also have been producing motors since 1919 or so. You are not the first to put one in a car. Remember its is about 400 lbs heavier than a sbc.

sounds like fun

 

Frame is assembled. Going to set the body on it tomorrow and see where a need to put suspension mounts.

 

i'd post a picture but it says i do not have permission to perform this action. meh.

still have to fish plate the joints.

 

Pic?