Diving Off the Deep End: My 1956 Buick Project

Click for larger images. As I said; it looks good to me, no cracks or scores. How does it look to you guys?

Do many other 50's cars have lug bolts instead of nuts? I assume I can just run bolts through back and use lug nuts if I ever need to.

Ryland

 

One caution. If you keep 4 wheel drums, get a m/c for that. If you go with front disks than use that application. There are differences.

 

Good job getting it off! All that oil inside of there probably helped! Looks like a MAJOR axle seal leak. You will need a new seal, brake linings a wheel cylinder or rebuild yours. I'm not an expert on this vintage Buick axle so I'm not sure if you'll need a new bearing or not. You will also have to get that drum turned or get it cleaned up really good. I can almost smell that from here!

 

I admire your resolve!

 

you just loctite studs in the hubs and use nuts after that

 

Good to see some progress!
I still kick myself about not getting that car! I have been lookin for one, but to no avail!
Now that the weather is gettin better, I expect to see more updates!

 

I pulled the rear passenger side axle to take a look at the bearing and the seals. When I pulled it out there was a gasket that was torn in half that stayed in the housing, I'm pretty sure it is this gasket: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_90&products_id=22085 but I can't tell where it came from. Is it the gasket between the bearing and the axle housing.

This is the diagram from my manual:

(Click for a larger image)
I know the gasket on the front is this one: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=76_90&products_id=6295

Any Idea where this one goes? Is it the one labeled oil seal in the manual? Or is this it?

If I remove the bearing retainer will I need to get a new one or can I just press it back on?

Do you think the pinion seal needs to be replaced? If it does will the rear end need to be pulled to get to it?

The rear bearing is very loose, it rattles around a lot. Does this mean it should be replaced? Or does it just need to be re-packed with grease?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Do you think the clutch plate needs to be replaced?

Ryland

 

Any thoughts?

Ryland

 

Yep. getting down towards the bottom of the grooves. also looks like it may not have been wearing even but might just be grease on the disc.
Also you have the tranny out. now is the best time to do the clutch. How does the fly wheel and the pressure plate look. I would strongly recommend have the flywheel surfaced before installing the new clutch. It will make the flywheel perfectly flat and true and will help to ensure a long chatter free clutch life.

Last tip. Buy the best clutch you can afford.

 

yeah not only is it getting down through the wear lines but you can see the heat discoloration as well. definitely make sure to have your flywheel resurfaced. not only will it increase clutch life but it will have alot more bite than a smoothed over heat cracked one.

when youre looking into clutches save yourself buy yourself the disc/ throwout bearing/ pressure plate combo. Not just the disc

 

Word!!!!!

 

Any tips on where to look for a clutch? I've tried everything I can think and can't find any specifically made for my trans. Should I be looking for NOS or new new?

Any thoughts on my rear end leak? (ha,ha,ha right? But seriously)

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Try Ott's friction supply. If they can't find one, the can reline yours. They did the front brake shoes on my Jeepster.

 

Also, Chevy used the same 10 spline 1.125 input shaft 10 inch clutch disk in most of its full sized cars from 54-71 11inch is also availble. Take yours in and see if it matches up.

 

Thanks for the tip!

It was suggested I use the best clutch afford. I am seeing a very large range of prices, I would like to only spend as much money as I have to, at what price do they start getting good? $100? $200? It will be behind a fairly stock 322 Buick Nailhead and a 3spd transmission so It shouldn't be seeing too many extreme forces.

Should I worry about the bolt spacing on the pressure plate or can they be re-drilled to fit?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Yes, bolt spacing must match up. Most aftermarket pressure plates come with a dual pattern (gm / ford). If you have the chevy style 10 inch disk the better companies offer a 10.5 disk/ cover that should bolt in place. Any good (hays, Mccloud, Ram, Zoom) street clutch should do if your not planning to burn the tires off.

 

Make sure to have the flywheel surfaced if it is blued or scored.

 

Yeah, so it looks like that inner 'gasket' should be that big O-ring, although I'm not quite sure why it's even needed to be honest. Kind of hard to tell from the diagram, because in the diagram it looks as if the most inner gasket may be the o-ring that prevents oil from seeping past the outer diameter of the bearing.

Then the green covered gasket is your 'oil seal', with the green coating being there to help seal minor imperfections. In the diagram it looks as if this 'oil seal' somehow sits inside the bearing race. In all of the oil seals I've seen, the outer green portion has always sealed against the axle housing itself.

Then the obvious paper gasket which mates to the bearing retainer plate.

Since they're cheap, I'd order them all up. Should be pretty simple to figure out when all the parts are cleaned up, and diameters checked. Kinda hard to do from just pictures online.

The bearing itself is lubricated with gear oil, NOT grease like some other types of outer wheel bearings. If an axle used grease for the outer wheel bearings, you'd be able to see an oil seal inside the axle tube to keep the gear oil from reaching the bearing.

 

So maybe nevermind my previous post. From this picture on rockauto: it looks as though the parts from OldBuick are this:

ABG560 is that inner gasket between the bearing and the housing.

WBS 562-2 is a 3.25" o-ring that isn't shown on the diagram, but matches the outer diameter of the bearing and sits in that little groove on the bearing that you can see in the rockauto picture.

OS560-1 is the green covered seal that is a replacement for the black seal in the rock auto picture. So it looks like if you buy the bearing from rock auto, this 'oil seal' is already pressed into the bearing race, AND you probably get that little 3.25" o-ring with it as well.

Hope that helps.

 

That motor will still put out plenty of torque and it is moving a heavy car so a strong clutch is needed. also seriously consider a running 401 or 425 out of a 60's buick. alot easier to find and will be cheaper and more fun in the long run. pick a part places usually have em and can be had for 100-500 depending on all the junk you get with it.
just my .02

 

i ended up putting a stock AC delco clutch in my 57 and thats over 400 ponies. Once you start getting up over 250 bucks for a clutch youre going to be dealing with some seriously stiff pressure plates, never mind a stiff engagement. And for an everyday driver 322 with a 3 speed? a reasonably "soft/ comfortable" pedal is probably more what youll be looking for. putting around town and a few smoke shows, Oem replacement will do, granted your buick is a little heavier than my chevy Its something to keep in mind.

 

A little update:

I removed the drivers side rear wheel (it really put up a fight) started working on pulling the drum. It really does not want to come off... I have a few more tricks I am going to try. On a more positive note the bearing does seem to be in better shape, the wheel itself has no play where the other side could move around a little. When I manage to get the drum off I will pull the axle and compare the bearings.

I also replaced the cracked cover on the newer engine's stater solenoid with the one from the old engine, the swap went smoothly except one bolt that took me an hour to get out.

I also wire-brushed, primed, and painted the hood support and latch.

Ryland

 

I got the drum off, man it was a bitch. I also pulled the drives side rear axle and the bearing is much tighter. It however does have some grease packed in it where the other one just had oil. Should I re-place the bearings? Its $150 for both of them. The bearings are lubricated by the gear oil, should the bearing have any grease in it?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

I don't believe the rear axle bearings are lubricated by the fluid in the rear end. Could be the axle seal was leaking on the pass side allowing fluid to get in there. Or the heat from a failing bearing could have turned the grease into oil. Could you scan your manual and show me where it says the bearings are lubed by the rear end. I am interested in seeing it!

Have you thought about a rear axle swap! Might be easier and cheaper, instead of replacing all the bearings, brakes, etc... Looks like a 64 riv rear would work! and you get to keep it all Buick!

http://www.webrodder.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3184&sid=1201b98490f75a08d0fd1c85570a31d1

Here is some more good info!
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/1937-1957_Buick_Oldsmobile_Pontiac_suspension_upgrade

 

I have thought about it, for now I'm just going to keep it as stock as possible. I would have to replace from the transmission back. I guess I could have done a complete drive train swap... later model 401/trans/rear end and all then I could have easily gone discs on all 4. Maybe later....

Ryland

 

Drivers side rear with drum off:


Drivers side rear axle shaft:


Looking at it again I'm not sure if it is grease, it looks thicker and like there is more of it than on the other side but that could just be because the other side was leaking more. What do you guys think?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Check the lubrication chart in your manual. Some rearends do have grease fittings for the outer bearings. Also, the section on replacing the bearings should tell you if the need to be packed with grease before installation.

 

I'm going to bet those bearings are lubricated by regular gear oil from the differential. The other side may appear to be more grease-like since its been exposed and mixed with brake dust, dirt, etc. Another thing to think of is that maybe that axle had been serviced at one time and the mechanic spread some grease on that bearing for good measure, I do it all the time on Jeep axle shafts. Bring your axles to a good automotive machine shop, have them press on new bearings and seals and put them back in, change the oil in that diff and run it!

 

50swillyjeepster: Look at my post before last, I have the section saying that it uses gear oil highlighted as Kimb82 asked.

Bryan6902: I agree with you, my guess is it was having signs of a bad bearing so the rear axles were pulled greased and put back in but the leaking on the passenger side has removed the grease added. More evidence is that both sides are missing the outer wheel bearing seal and the drives side is missing the inner bearing gasket as well. Probably due to being disassembled and having the gaskets neglected to be put back in. The bearing problem could be why it was parked in 1970.

I will buy both bearings, I might as well do the complete job while I'm at it. I'm sure I will thank myself when I do some long distance trips.

Thanks,
Ryland