Diving Off the Deep End: My 1956 Buick Project

That sucks you weren't able to hear it fire. Good progress report.

 

Hey guys! Im back in good ol' rainy Oregon. So its time to start working on the Buick again. Well get a job so I can make cash to be able to work on the Buick.

Anyways..

I need some help with my starter. I have it wired up and it will turn the engine over but I don't think the starter isn't shimmed correctly; It sounds like its clanging against the flywheel, after awhile of trying the starter will engage and turn the engine over. This is the starter that came on this block and it didn't have any shims on it. Does it need to be shimmed?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

I don't believe Buick used shims on their starters. That's an SBC thing.

If it is the original starter, it might need a rebuild. Things can get sloppy inside there, especially if a brush is worn down.

 

Ryland, I wish you luck. You sure picked out a project for your first. I admire what you've accomplished. Many years ago I had a 55 Special. Relaced the 264 with a 322. A friend of mine had a 54 Special we put a 58, 364 in it and a three speed. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

After letting the engine sit since August it will no longer turn over. I've been trying to get it to turn over for a while... I sprayed a ton of PB down the cylinders, waited a week, tried again, sprayed more, waited a week. I cant get it to budge. I tried pouring some brake fluid down but still wont move. Right now I am thinking vinegar, atf/diesel, or hooking it up to my truck putting the Buick in gear and pulling it. Which would you suggest I try first?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

dont pour brake fluid down the cylinders, your starter is most likely shot. Take it off and test it.

 

Why shouldn't I pour brake fluid in them? I've heard of many people doing it and I cant see how it would damage anything.

The starter probably is bad but that's not really the problem, I cant even turn it over with a wrench and a breaker bar.

Ryland

 

The motor was seized in my '56 special wagon when I got it too.. Out of desperation I had to fill the engine all the way up with just about every type of oil I had around.. And once the wrist pins soaked a bit it turned over super easy.. It seemed like a long shot at the time, but it was mostly the wrist pins holding it back.. Might be worth a shot? Or get a longer breaker bar

 

Try a 50/50 mix of ATF and diesel! You might have to remove the heads, and tap the pistons with a block of wood, or soft hammer!

 

brake fluid is a good way to free up a locked engine . the hard part is waiting for it to soak in . you should let it soak at least 5 days then try to spin it over without the plugs in it . be ready to clean up the mess it makes if it starts spinning .

 

WOW! That's exactly what I am looking for to make custom bed for my '53 chevy pickup and the portholes are to die for, You did good!! Pull it down to nuts and bolts and make sure all parts safe (frame, etc.). You will not have to worry about parking next to anouther one at Wal-Mart!!

 

I use tire sidewall pieces for body mounting pads, works great and is cheap!

 

If you have a clutch, the bellhousing and tranny are like gold to finance your work.

 

If it were mine I would soak the whole engine in used tranny fluid (used fluid usually dirt cheap and think 55 gallon drum or large tank) and let it soak while doing the bodywork. ATF sucks as a hydraulic fluid but makes excellent penetrant! <grin>

 

you can go bigger on a master cylinder, not smaller, it will supply more fluid to brakes per pedal swing.

 

Buick and Olds (and others?) used some weird brakes in the mid '50's. I suggest a frame mounted universal hot rod power brake setup, you need good brakes and the brake system you have is costly to repair or replace and you are not doing a restoration. A 1" bore with power assist will do good. Slow down, take a deep breath and enjoy, most of us are only trying to help. send me a mailing address to oldcarfart@aol.com and I will send you some stuff to help you along I no longer need or use.

 

You can get premium money for a nailhead with a stick shift and should finance a newer drive line swap.

 

I would update carb, the old kit material does not like ethanol.

 

For ease of reading (and to avoid pissing off some of the more anal folks around here) may I suggest replying all in one post?

Anyways...

I do agree, I think this Buick was a great buy! I really scored on the manual transmission. Which is one reason I am keeping the original 3spd column shift setup. Some day I would like to put a 401 or 425 nailhead in but that is waaaay in the future.

I've already sorted the brakes out, I used a 1" willwood remote master cylinder mounted on the frame with custom fabricated brake pedal. I have the brakes all plumbed up, all I need to do is bleed them and chase the millions of leaks I am sure to find.

As for taking it all apart. My first goal is to get it running and driving. I have already got under it and jabbed at any suspicious spots on the frame and found no holes. Two of the body mounts are in need of replacement as well as the inner rockers on the drivers side. There is some rust in the cowl but I will address that later. The lower passengers side front quarter has a quarter sized rust hole in it and the rear pillars have weird rust spots that will be fixed. The floors will also be fixed as they are fairly shot. The roof will be the real hard part, I figure I will do the best I can now so I can drive it and later on when I have a real shop and some big boy tools I will go back and do the roof right.

The carb I am using is a WCFB I rebuilt with a NAPA kit, I hope it will stand up to new gas....

I'm going to pick up some ATF and Diesel today, I am plenty busy so letting it soak for a while will not be a problem. Hopefully then it will crank, I can work out the timing, new spark wires, put on a new fuel pump and let er' rip! I cant wait to drive it, it will be quite the experience to say the least.

Ryland

 

I guess all she need was more time. On my way home from class today I picked up a gallon of diesel and 2 qts of ATF. Getting ready to to put them in I decided to try to and turn it over one more time. She turned right over.

Ryland

 

Sweet! Did she fire up? I have an extra 2bbl carb and manifold. Put a 4bbl manifold and edelbrock carb on my 322. Also added the pertronix kit to the distributor. No more points.
Good luck...

 

Ive been so busy fixing other cars, going to school, and work that I haven't been able to touch it. Hopefully soon I will be able to get to it, I'm really itching to hear it run.

Ryland

 

Well I got a new dist. cap and spark wires. I also pulled the starter and cleaned the solenoid. Still can't get it to run. Im 90% sure I have the timing right. Is there a fool proof way to make sure I am at TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

Ryland

 

I messed around with the spark plug wires and now I am 99% sure I have the spark wires routed correctly. When I crank the motor smoke comes out of the valve cover breathers and it seems like it wants to fire because the engine spins faster in bursts. I do not have a fuel pump hooked up, I am just trying to gravity feed it. Any ideas?

Next I am going to pull the carb and play with it as I have gotten more familliar with carbs since I rebuilt this one.

Next step is the fuel pump; should I rebuild the mechanical one or switch to electric?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

I still run my mechanical pump, and on our cars, the bottom bellow is vacuum and it runs the windshield wipers..

 

I'll give rebuilding the pump a go. The only reason I considered switching was a rebuild kit is about $80 and for that much I could switch to an electric.

Ryland

 

Just to be sure...

Are you aware that the #1 plug on a Nailhead is front passanger side?

#1 TDC will put the roter at about 7:30 or 8:00 as you look down on it from the front of the car.

Good luck!

 

I put the 2bbl that came on this engine back on because the 4bbl seems to be having linkage/ acc pump issues because I can't I cant open the throttle more than half way before the acc pump bottoms out. I did a quick cleaning of the 2bbl and it seems to be working. Accelerator pump works, all the jets are clear.

I put in new points and condenser and I am getting spark but I still can't get it to run. Today I had my sister crank it while I slowly turned the distributor and all I go was one back fire out the passenger side exhaust. I am gravitiy feeding it gas. I've tried pouring gas down the carb, carb starter, pumping the accel pump. Nothing. I can't get it to start. Any suggestions of things to check? It has new spark plugs, new wires, new rotor cap, new points, new condenser... Anyone feel like stopping by and looking over it for me?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

So your getting it to turn over. Thats good.
how does it sound when your crankin it over? Is it turnin over slow or fast.
Double check the order of your plug wires, have you checked voltage to the coil, maybe not hot enough spark. If I was closer, I would come check it out.
Post on the NW Hamb page, someone there has to live close to ya!
Good luck, and keep us informed!