Diving Off the Deep End: My 1956 Buick Project

I thought a half inch master cylinder bore sounded a bit wrong, wheel cylinder maybe, but not master. Rock Auto lists the rebuilt kit for a little over eleven bucks and states it is one inch diameter.

 

Just fliping throught the post. Looks like you have a hell of a project at hand but a very nice start. I am sure some people have already told you but I would consider a nailhead out of a later riviera or other fulsize Buick. they can be had for realitivly cheap prices and come in the 401 to 425 variety. they have plenty of go power stock and would look right at home under that hood.

I am in portland and love to see younger rodders getting into this stuff. I am only 28 myself and have been infected since about age 1 and had my first project at age 14.

hit me up sometime and we'll tak cars.

Eric

 

so its not a 1/2 in bore or it is?

but yeah hanging a different set of pedals isnt such a bad idea and not exactly difficult either. You could buy another master and a set of pedals for about half of the price than rebuilding yours for the quoted price

 

This post was taken as rude by some so I have removed it.

Sorry.

 

Well, sorry we couldnt help then. guess you better pony up the bills and have it rebuilt then.

 

Once again I'm sorry if that came across as rude but there are some people that are questioning me and saying "why dont you just pick up a $30 rebuild kit for it" when if they had read some of this thread they would have known why. I figured if I put it in larger print they would be sure to read it before giving their opinion.

Ryland

 

Try calling Wilwood and get advice from their techs.





http://www.wilwood.com/Start/Products/006-MasterCylinders/index.asp

 

I've believed you from the beginning, just keep thinking that if they changed it after only 1 year, there might be a reason. Also if it is a single piston design ( one outlet only) a dual piston is much safer. Yes, I still have single piston m/c's in my Jeeps, but top speed is about 60 max.

Also some time ago you asked where to get sheet metal? I have the roof section of a mini pickup that is going to scrap this weekend. You might be able to cut a patch for your roof out of it probably doesn't have enough crown for your needs but free if you want it.

 

RUDE doesn't even begin to cover it! While I don't have, nor have I ever had, and don't plan to have, the exact make, model, and year car you are working on, I've been at this modifying cars thing for more than a little while now (probably longer than you've been alive), and once worked for a man that taught me more about building hot rods in two years than I could have learned on my own in twenty.

I have followed this saga since it's beginning. I and others have offered advice and tried to give you ideas. Have you even taken the cylinder out and physically measured the bore to make sure that the book is correct and that is indeed what you have? Early on I offered to take time out from my own projects, and come over to give you a hand to get you started. Rest assured I could start from scratch with nary an original component and redo your damn brakes, but by now it's painfully obvious to anyone reading this thread you're so busy wanting all the answers given to you, you can't take the time to read and comprehend what has been written on your behalf, much less take the advice given and think for yourself.

At this point I'm done, and you can believe I won't be opening up this thread again.

 

dido

 

I removed the master cylinder last week and have since been trying to dis-assemble it but it is rusted together, I have tried all the tips people have given me on here to get it apart and none have worked yet. I assume the origional manual is right and other people that own 56 buicks who have told me are correct, forgive me for brashly assuming without checking for myself.

It is not that I want all the answers given to me, I will be the first to admit I have extremely limited knowledge on old cars (and most other subjects of that matter). I need help, yes. A lot of help. It was this forum that gave me the courage to buy a car like this because I saw the mass of knowledge and people willing to help. I have been taking what I have been told on this website and on teambuick.com and been researching for the best way to go about doing this. I would like to end up with a car that has sufficient breaks, at least as good as when it was manufactured. I have several leads on ways to get around this and with a little more research I think I will know which direction I want to go.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

you can have my master when I take it off (hopefully in the next few weeks). I have no usefor it, and I dont know if it needs rebuilt, one would assume yes, but it is from nice dry arizona, so I pretty much guarantee it wont be a rusted up mess so probabyl a better one to rebuild than the one you have. If you want it, drop me a PM with your mailing info.

 

Ryland, I have been following your efforts since I came upon this thread. your dilligence is heroric by all standards.
As far as the brakes go will a '55 or '57 MC mount to the frame in the same location? If so use either unit and then rebuild it. Then replace the wheel cylinders with the same year as the master that you used
I am amazed that no one has metioned a Hollander interchange manual! Most dismantlers (junkyards) have them going back many years. These will give you a good idea of what else might work!
Kevin

A kick in the ass, is still a step forward!

 

I have a Hollander interchange manual that covers upto '65 and unfortunately for '56 Buick with regular brakes the only interchange listed is '56 Buick. I also have a 1940-1963 Buick Master Chassis Parts Book. I looked up the part numbers for '56:

5455765 is hydraulic brake master cylinder rebuild kit for '56 with regular brakes
5456000 is hydraulic brake master cylinder for '56 with regular brakes

I googled the phrase "Buick 5455765" and found this:

http://www.oldparts.com/GM/Buick/buick.html

and "Buick 5456000" and found the MC listed at CARS or Automobile Archives

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalo...56000&osCsid=3c4c95510d1d738ff825f0ffb96bd97f
http://www.automobilearchives.com/part_number.asp

Not sure that really helps, but you could post a parts wanted ad over on the BCA forums using those part numbers:

http://www.buickclub.org/

 

Thank you Buford26, I have purchased a working master cylinder off a member here. If he can find it that is...

I still haven't completely ruled out switching to discs or using a 1" master with a different pedal set up.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Hey did you see that other guy above said you can have his when he takes it off?

I havent had a chance to look for it mine yet but I know its there, its just a matter of going out to the garage. Im moving some furniture today/night but will find it tomorow. If you end up getting that other guys and dont need mine let me know.

 

Call me greedy buy I'll take both, who knows what parts I will need.

Ryland

 

nah thats not greedy, thats smart! haha Ill find it tomorrow man.

 

Just a suggestion but why not call some after market companies that sell brake kits for different cars. I would be willing to bet that you could adapt a disc brake kit for not much more cash outlay than trying to rebuild what you currently have. and after you spend a bunch of money to get your manual drums to work they are still just manual drums that dont stop very well.

there are plenty of companies that make these things. I would go pick up a street rodder and rod and custom mag and start checkin it all out.
this whole thing is about having fun makin pals and being resourceful.
Listen to what everyone has to say then take it with a grain of salt and start to move forward from the knowlege you have picked up.

 

look at what Buikwag did (building a plate for the firewall) I really think this is the best answer.
It looks like Buick was experimenting in 56 with a weird Master cylinder,but the wheel cylinders were all normal stuff.( I have been digging through old manuals for the last hour)
If you hang a 1 inch bore M/C with its associated pedal assembly on the firewall. All of your bore size problems will be solved.
late 60 early 70's GM "A" body(chevelle,cutlass) would work well and shouln't be too
hard to find.
Hey, the math works, you can have power brakes(or not),
easy maintenance, and cheap.
you lose that vent, but oh well.
easy.

 

Interesting thread, will be neat to follow.

 

Well spoken Slamit

 

I agree, dual masters from these GM's are very cheap, and the addition of a power booster could be as much as a hundred bux or more. Brake and booster somewhere around $150 bux im guessing....If I can help, let me know, I get a discount at my local parts house and would be willing to pass on the savings to you if your willing.

 

Thanks!

Its good to know that I can use a 1" master. Are there any particular suppliers you suggest when looking for masters? I've just been looking at rockauto.com. Any idea how I could figure out how long of an arm I need to get the necessary mechanical advantage to use a 1" master? More questions on that later...

I'm still toying with the idea of swapping over to discs, I need to remove one of the rear brake drums. The manual just says to remove them, no specifics, and what I'm seeing online is beat them with a hammer until they are able to be pulled off. I've removed 2 bolts (looks like there was supposed to be 3) off the face of the drum and sprayed it with liberal amounts of PB and done some tapping with a rubber mallet but they still wont budge. I also read about putting the tire back on and yanking on it but that didn't do anything. Any tips? Is there something else holding it on? I can get drum to turn by hand so I don't think the brakes are engaged at all. Also the master cylinder is no longer attached so the system is open. I'm fairly positive the parking brake isn't on either.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Maybe just buying a universal street rod pedal set-up is what you need to do. Like this one I found on FleaBay- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-Po...Accessories?hash=item53df9bdd84#ht_1274wt_825

Forget the rubber mallet and the old framing hammer and get a BFH!!! 2-3 pounder 12-16 inch handle and start POUNDING that drum! The lube is a good idea and you may want to put the lug nuts on a few turns so you don't mash the threads on your studs. If it's turning the only thing holding it on is the rust between the drum and the axle flange. When you get it loose you may have to turn the adjusters in, as there may be a ridge on the inside lip of the drum that will catch on the shoes. Good luck!

 

Try to wire brush the hub in the center, a little heat on that center flange may help too.
using the "A" body pedal assembly will give you the proper leverage for the "A" body Master.
If you are going to use disc fronts It may be easier to find a pedal ass. out of a 70s firebird/camaro.
then use a rebuilt M/C for that.

 

Any 1 inch GM master pedal assem. will work. pretty much whatever you find at the local swap meet or at the junk yard. Or even put a post on here.

yeah heat, pb blaster and a 3lb sledge almost always works.If ur planning to reuse your studs make sure you put lug nuts on part way so you dont mash up the threads

and like bryan said may have to turn the butterfly adjuster in the back a few turns. throw in a pry bar on each side of the drum in between the backing plate and pull to help it off a little bit.

 

Sometimes those drums can be a pain. As mentioned, take a mini sledge or deadblow hammer and just start slowing working your way around the drum. Those drums can take a beating, but still be careful and methodical. Look on the backing plate and see if there's any rubber plugs. If there are, take them off and put a long punch in there and try to persuade the drum off from the inside a bit. Don't be surprised if it takes you awhile.

If it was me, I'd stick with the drums. Mainly you just want to get this thing on the road for now, right?

If you want a hand tonight or tomorrow, let me know. I can bring some tools and what not.

 

I got the drum off, everything was in remarkably good condition. I'll post some pictures in a bit. Of course when removing the wheel cylinder I managed to break off one of the bolts so that will be fun to get out, the other one came out quite easily though.

Should I worry about cleaning/repacking the bearings? Is it possibly to press them back on without a hydraulic press?

Thanks,
Ryland