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Technical DIY 2 stage metallic

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LQQKER, Feb 16, 2022.

  1. LQQKER
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 84

    LQQKER
    Member

    I live in Florida....time to start thinking about painting my 54 truck. I have painted several 2 stage paints out of my garage in the "old days"...Binks #7. I jammed these cars and assembled then painted.....no matching issues. I'd like to paint the truck in pieces over the course of several days. ....no booth....major concern is paint match from day to day with a Red metallic color....or even solid gray tones...

    Advise on successes or failures welcome...will use a gravity feed gun this time.

    Thanks
     
  2. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,310

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Unless you are a professional painter and that's all you do, all day - every day, I wouldn't recommend painting one piece at a time. Most Pro's don't even shoot metallic's one piece at a time. Save yourself the frustration and shoot the WHOLE thing at once. JMHO. ;)
     
    Lloyd's paint & glass likes this.
  3. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,814

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Try to paint parts that are next to each other in a group with bace cote and clear then onto the next group. By grouping parts buy color then assembles then a complete assembly. Once assembled you can blend problem areas.

    Get all that done and I will tell you how to spray a flawless complete candy paint job with no tape lines, including jambs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2022
  4. Record the air pressure and keep it the exact same each time. Don’t change anything once you start painting. Same reducer, same distance……
    Orient the parts for painting as they will be mounted on the truck.
    Don’t hang doors on a 45* angle and expect them to match when bolted to the truck.
     
  5. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,314

    19Fordy
    Member

    Considering the high cost of paint and your time and labor, you should definitely paint the entire car all at one time.
    Otherwise ,there are too many variables that will cause the paint job to vary from panel to panel.
     
    loudbang and 427 sleeper like this.
  6. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,857

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    If you buy two gallons of paint, mix them together in to a new gallon can then put them back into the original cans and proceed. Shake them good. Shoot the panels the same air pressure and distance. and clear them. If you can't do this find a painter that can. Done. Lippy
     
  7. I painted my avatar in pieces. Body one day, fenders and hood the next. Noticeable difference in color if you're looking for it. Did some paint work on a friend's restored '40 conv. 99 point car. Panel under the trunk lid, used the left over thinned paint from the original paint job. Way different, and it was black.
     
  8. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,796

    Roothawg
    Member

    It depends on the color also. I piece paint all of mine. Never had an issue. With that said, they have always been light colors, silvers, light blues etc. I did paint one model A for a friend, but it had black fenders, the rest was moselle maroon. It matched as well. I have seen some really noticeable differences in other guys cars though.
     
  9. hepme
    Joined: Feb 1, 2021
    Posts: 628

    hepme
    Member

    Metallic? Really tough to individual paint and them match up-too much metallic on one, not enough on the other, paint not totally mixed/shaken etc. Like the others have said, get everything set, try a trial piece, and then shoot the whole thing at once, hopefully it'll all be the same.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. LQQKER
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 84

    LQQKER
    Member

    Thanks everyone....I'll keep you posted...
    Will base coat adhere to clear coat overspray...just my final thought.
     
    loudbang likes this.

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