DIY Spray On Chrome

save your nervous system- cheaper, easyer is to buy it- trust me! Dont look at me, i dont buy silver nitrate- I have a lot!

 

my best advise is to get premixed Silver mirror chemicals locally and test whats the best DI water/Chemical mix ratio. just like I did. it will save you a ton of headaches

 

as sudzhis says, if you order the chemical already made better, you'll waste a lot of money unless you have a specific formulation

 

Hi for all!

Whats new guys? Im testing, and silvering a lot! Testing adhesion - lot of clear coats etc. Whats new for all?

 

Hi for all!

Whats new guys? Im testing, and silvering a lot! Testing adhesion - lot of clear coats etc. Whats new for all?

 

Nothing new for me, except that I'm having a baby right.. but after that I'll get back at Silvering again, I will try Chrome Paint, I believe I have it to an art form and I can pool really good results. the issue is that its way more expencive than the real Silver thing

 

I dont think that chrome paint is even close to silver! Maybe some days, someone made paint, like mirror!

I trying to get perfect results, but it is not so easy!

 

I've read a lot in this thread. Good info.
I think rather than trying to go through all the learning process I'm going to buy a kit from http://angelgilding.com/. I'm looking at this drip system.
Seems it would be the easiest for a new person. http://angelgilding.com/A1111C.html
(oh I am going to be working on metal auto parts)

I've spoke on several occasions with a representative from angel gilding.
She emphasized (like NicaMarvin stated) preparation is very important.
She did say that as a base coat a person should use a very high gloss base coat to get the best reflective result. Also like NicaMarvin said; she stated if you wanted to use it on something that would have high heat temps to make sure and use a base coat AND a top coat designed to withstand heat.

NOW MY PROBLEM is this: She said they don't sell the base coat, the top coat nor the tints - and they didn't have a brand they would recommend.
She also stated to make sure and use a tint that is compatible with the top coats chemistry.
So I need to know what kind of base coat to buy - especially the name and where I could get it
I also need the top coat and tint. Again, name and where to get it.
Finally... how would a person know how much tint to add..?? I am guessing the base coat and top coat would come in a rattle can; if so, I don't know a way to add tint??

I live in the United States, so I especially hope I can hear from folks from the U.S. that are familiar with what type stores we have, etc.
Of course I welcome comments from everyone. I can always learn something, and look forward to that.

 

what kind of heat are we talking about?

 

Oh I'm thinking of using it on my brake calipers...??
Nothing like motor heat. exhaust, or anything
The rest I am looking at doing is:
upper and lower A-arms; hood hinges; springs; the plate the hood latch catches into; sway bar; .... (I can't think of anything else).
Of course if I get all this done and have some left over I'm sure I'll find something else to consider doing.

I figure if I can get squared away on the base coat and top coat, 100 sq of supplies should cover this easy..??
Hope I can find a little help and instruction. Be nice to be able to buy it ready to apply??

 

M5StudeGuy u start all with errors!

1. This kit http://angelgilding.com/A1111C.html this is for mirrors, or for some FLAT surfaces! For parts u want to silver u need spray gun or at least hand sprayer! (if i understand right)
2. And trust me- this is not so easy like u think

 

I understand what you are saying....
The video shows it being applied very easily (yes I know when you have done it a long time the person doing it can make it look easy.)
As far as application, the lady I've been speaking with assumes me this will do metal surfaces. It all comes down to preparation (just like NicaMarvin has said all along) But that's why I am asking, don't want to spend $200+ and it not work

Waiting to see a few more comments....

 

M5SstudeGuy,

I agree with Sudzhis on this one. You should be looking at the Angle Guilding Spray system, not the the drip system. Take it from all of us that have put many hours into perfecting this type of chroming. You will waste time and money. Also like Sudzhis says this is not an easy process to master. I have been working with for months and still have issues. I will get it though. You need to read the whole thread and it will give you the answers to most of your questions. Thanks to guys like NicaMarvin and Sudzhis and all the others that have posted on this thread which makes it easy to find all the answers. Good Luck

 

Buy double liquid hand sprayer! it will be +/- cheap + AG chemicals and after some months u will silver your parts

 

This leads me to another question. If I get my supplies from AG... where do I get the base coat, and top coat (and tint)
AG doesn't sell any of this.

Also when (if) I do buy a place to buy this stuff,.. how do you know what color tint to use, (and how to mix it)

PS,.. I've already read this entire thread (took me four days)...
Seems I read someone posted people should use a white or gray matte paint for the base coat. I noticed this is the opposite of what AG advises. They advise as shiney, high gloss, black finish for a base coat.

 

Hi there M5Studeguy, I´ve talke with Mrs King for years now, the reason she does not sell basecoats and topcoats for spray on chrome is due to the high complexity of such system, Mirrors are alot easier to do than spray on chrome..BUT you are doing the right way using their chemicals as they have the least expencive premade chemicals, and believe me you dont want to make your own...

now for Beasecoat and topcoat.... for Basecoat for Calipers I would use High Gloss Polyurethane made for calipers, if SherWin Williams sell them, go with them, after that have them cure on the oven or on the car for at least one day so the basecoat(single stage) gasses out and cure completely. after that follow standard procedures, like degreasing, wetting agent and Silvering...

as for Top Coat? it depends do you want colored chrome? or Realitic Chrome? for Colored Chrome I have use normal 2k ClearCoat from SW(Spot repairs) tinted with the color I wanted(Blue) the normal 2k clear will tolerate the heat because the caliper would already have a high heat temp basecoat lowering the temps just enough...

as for Realistic chrome? you cant Beat Alsa´s Chrome tinted Clear coat for their Spray on chrome system...


go for the 120 sq/f system, get a bottle of Tint for silver(the larger one) get a bottle of wetting agent, 2 bottles of dual cartridge hand sprayer(as shown on this thread) and a normal hand sprayer for the tin for silver.. and you are set up, start practising on small items and let us know, we can guide you...


Edit. oh the 100 sq/f of silvering chemicals will actually cover about 40 actuall square feet. that is if you do 40 pieces 1 sq/f each.. trust me. and the Alsa´s 12 sq/f is more like 4 sq/f of chemicals

 

not really sure how many 'square feet' I'd have to cover.
As you know upper and lower A-arms are tubular bars, and is the sway bar. Of course springs are found also. Have no clue how I'd figure out how many Sq Ft it would take.
The other items are the hood plate latch, and hood hinges. (oh and brake calipers)

Obviously I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money buying items I'm only going to use once. Seems the kit from AG cost about $350 (plus shipping) I haven't saw what it would cost to buy the top coat and base coat yet...
I am getting the feeling that maybe buying all this for a one time use, just might be easier and cheaper to hire it done.??

Needless to say I wouldn't want a colored chrome,.. just a nice glassy chrome reflective finish.

 

I think you would be fine with 40 Sq/F of chemicals and plenty to spare, which is good for practicing on small items before you do any silvering..

I dont know about only using it "Once" if you do it good I know you wont stop on just a few pieces.

the 40 sq/f kit from Angel Gilding costs are listed here

120ml Silver concentrate chemicals(good for up to 40 sq/f) is $75 http://angelgilding.com/A2038.html

the Long life Tin For silver is 33 http://angelgilding.com/A2045.html

the Wetting Agent(the one you need is this one not the smaller quantitie one) is $17 http://angelgilding.com/A2141.html

so thats like what? $125 plus taxes..

.

then you would have to fork about $60 more on the Alsa's chrome tinted Clear coat, nothing beats it for realistic chrome look after your pieces have been silvered. for basecoat you can use any 2k Urethane single stage Black or White automotive grade paint, and just remember to prep the pieces like you would for a normal car panel before the glossy base coat.

 

LOL.. most all I have to do is 'small' items.
In fact except as for one or two pieces they could get away with not being "perfect"
As you know the sway bar, A-arms, spring are all on the lower part of the front chassis, and not in a position where folks can see if they are perfect (like an exterior body part) - long as they had a nice shiney chrome look (and not a gold tint either)

I suppose you could be right. I do have a hood ornament that could be chromed. But it is pot metal and would need a little work on pitting, etc. I don't know anything about doing that.. or the process it would take. It WOULD need to look almost perfect

I guess I'd just go to each business and order the items I need. I am curious about the base coat. Does it come in a rattle can, or do you use a paint sprayer.
Same question for the top coat. I am assuming I'll have to use the paint sprayer. I know some of these questions sound stupid but I am learning, and want to know all I can before jumping in and spending the money.
Sounds like you'd suggest I spray on the chrome, tin, etc. Do you think I could use my own paint sprayer and get away from buying they spray system. I do the priming, etc for the truck I am building.

Would they know what tint to put in if I told them what I was doing..??
If I can get out of this deal for about $200 I can afford to do all the pieces I want,.. but much more expense than that and I'd just have to do a couple pieces and hire them done.

 

Believe me when I say that you dont know how Bad your first try will look, at least not as bad as mine that I didnt have nobody helping me around, but they will be prety bad as not acceptable. but thats ok, thats learning for you..

would be no different from preping Pot metal for normal Paint.. use the correct primer and fillers then its all the same from there.

No Rattle can quality here please. I Only use 2k Urethan coatings, Automotive class paints. so yes you would have to use a spray gun, the same one people use to paint cars..

no thats ok I love to help around here...

yes its much better than dipping(which I have done) or Dripping..

are you talking about using your paint spray gun instead of the hand bottle dual sprayers? if you do then thats no good, the chemicals will interact with the metal in the spray gun and bring nothing but headaches for you in the future. the dual sprayers are made out of plastics no thats good

well thats good, nothing better than doing your own thing and seeing it after all of the hard work

well its part of the "Spray On Chrome" system they would know what your are talking about. they sell all chemicals and coatings separately.. here is the youtube link I did whith the small sample I got from them with their small kit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YP1zcShew

I just dont think you will be able to find anybody willing to do even one piece for $200 so... even if you have to expend a little bit more you would be saving alot in the long run and think about the challenge of learning such a nice trade..? while I make Spray on chrome look cheap. thats for the DIY guys, I doubt you could get somebody to do it on the cheap.

 

SO lets see if I got this right...
I would need to use the dual spray bottles to do the chroming 'system'....
If this is the system I am thinking of it cost about $350..?? I know the drip system was about $225. (so that's why I was checking on using it)

I assume it's be OK to use my HVLP spray gun to do the base coat and top coat.

Sounds like the top coat would come tinted (like in a quart can or something like that) so I guess the HVLP gun would be the way to go for that..?

As far as everything else. Unless I miss my guess this is a "one time only" thing I'm going to do with this chrome. I am disabled, and not in any shape to try and turn this into any type of business venture. I have been six years restoring this pickup to the point when I have it now. And I am guessing it's still a couple years from being done. I just have a very limited amount I can do in a day (or couple days). SO I figured I'd try this to see if I could save some money.
From looking at the quantities they sell... the 'smallest' amount probably wouldn't be enough to do just a few pieces, and the next largest amount will be enough to do a lot of things. I mostly got just small parts to do. The hood hinges are only about 4" x 8" - the hood latch is the biggest piece and it's about 8" x 8". The rest of the stuff you pretty much know the sizes - a-arms, springs, brake calipers.... etc

Like you said... I might do some extra. I mean whether I do one piece or 20 I have to buy all the same "work items" to work with (the dual bottles, etc). Once I buy all that, it's just a matter of buying more supplies to do more items. Still unless I have to touch something up later on; I doubt I'd do anything except for this time (and for myself)

As far as hiring the chroming done, I spoke with a couple professional places, and they said their stuff like 10" x 10" cost about $75 per item, and the bigger the piece the more it cost. Also he's is about 60 miles away (one way)
I used to have a business that was close. He did a bumper for a friend of mine, and he charged $75 for it. I had a chrome bumper he stripped the chrome off of for me, and he charged $25.
Problem with that is he is a small business, and it's gotten hard to get the chemicals he needs. Also new laws as far as disposing of the used chemicals, etc etc have driven his cost up so much he closed shop.

I just got a guys name from a friend that does chroming "on the side" so I might be able to save a little there (providing he does a good job)
Since I'm on a fixed income, it's going to be all about the costs as far as what I can do...

 

Not quite.. I would suggest you start reading my thread from page one. on page one you will find the following info on the hand sprayer I use that wont cost you more than $20 a piece(you would need two)

Source of Quote: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=674441

thats correct, no different from anyother form of Car painting

that is correct

I falled in loved with Chroming things. its awesome and if I could do it every day I would.. but thats just me

Trust me I have tried both. the 120ml small quanitie to the 500ml. the 120 is perfect for you, it will cover 40 to 45 pieces of 12 x 12.

Business like these are not as prolific as in they were in the past, and they will be fewer in the future..

 

Sorry for such a long post, but I'm kind of trying to wrap everything up and tie it all together. When I get it all straight in my head, I'm going to put it all in a word file in my computer so I can keep referring back to it. I had a brain injury and I get things confused lots of times... so please bear with me. I THINK I about have it figured out, but please point out anything I have wrong.

I forgot the earlier post you made, and was thinking of the full kit I saw at AG.
Thanks for referring me back to earlier post...
I've read so much in this thread I forget some of the stuff....
Lots of good info...
By the way, I liked the way you used a syringe to measure out your chemicals accurately. Very smart, and accurate

So just as a recap. I need:
1) - Two of the dual sprayer bottles (from excel suppliers) I assume one bottle is to have tin chemicals mixed and ready, and the other is to mix silvering chemicals in. Looks like you need to have everything set up and ready to go before you start...

2) - the three bottle set of silver chemicals (shown above - from AG)
3) - the bottle of tin for silver (shown above - from AG)

Then I also need:
4) - base coat paint (just any top grade glossy auto paint - high heat if parts will get hot)
I suppose if I have to buy a high heat base coat for some parts, I could just use the same base coat on everything - no sense in buying two different paints to use as a base, and just use part of each one..?? I figure the smallest amount I'll be able to buy is a quart??

5) - top coat paint with tint added. (from Alsa Chrome)

OH I almost forgot - What about the wetting agent. I suppose it comes from AG also?? That's something I'll need also right? I suppose to be safe it'd be best to just plan on wiping down the whole piece with the wetting agent if it looks like it might need it or not??.

Also, did you decide we need the 1.5 liter pump sprayer from AG to use the distilled water to rinse..?? What did you end up using that works best (just trying to not have to buy anything I don't need.) I see the 1.5 liter sprayer is $17. - but if I need it I need it. Not sure what else I'd use that would have that much volume to rinse the item well and hold distilled water.

While I am thinking of it... I see you previously wrote this

I "suppose" this is like making a cake - if I only need a small amount to do a small piece, I can cut it in half, and say I'd put in 100 ml di water, and then only 2 ml of silver concentrate, and 2 ml of silver activator..??
I assume whatever you mix up and don't use is just wasted??

So is the correct order of process:
(Remember I am doing metal...)
Spray with the glossy black automotive base coat - (Or do I need some type of primer, and then the base coat) I saw Krylon mentioned, but didn't know if that was just for doing plastic
then the 2k automotive clear coat
let cure 24 hours ???
prep prep prep.. sand to as slick a finish as possible

then clean,
spray rinse with regular or distilled water
wetting agent
then spray rinse with regular or distilled water
then tin (dual spray??)
then spray rinse with distilled water
then sliver dual pump spray
then more distilled water spray
then hair dryer

then apply tinted top coat from Alsa's

I am guessing since distiller water is just $1/gallon, I'll just always use distilled water...
Once again... sorry it's so long.

 

Wow.. Amazing job Cromarte, such a good job makes me want to start doing it right NOW..! feel sorry I cant do it at this moment. but you are doing such an Awesome job..

 

thats ok buddy...

thats ok, lots of info requires lots of reading, this is the Only how to that you can find in the internet.

dont forget about the Wetting agent get the large bottle its like 16 dollars I believe.

that is correct. keep things as simple as possible.

No, they can Only sell the "Chrome Tinted" Clear coat not the tint on itself. the quart is about 60 dollars

let me be clear here... without the wetting agen you are doom to fail... simple as that, whatch my videos and watch them again to see how nice the chemicals flow and this is the most important thing on the silvering process..

you will need a form of rinsing, you can get yourself a 1.5 to 2 liter sprayer from other vendors.

that is correct, the usefull time is about 8 hours, after is no good, so always mix what you are going to use not more. I would do lots of small parts in one day, easier than one at a time


I have to go now, I'll get back to you tomorrow ok.. good night

 

nica thanks! we only need to get a good chrome effect finish .... more or less the blue and violet as you use and in terms of varnish?

 

that is correct. except I dont use Varnish I use Clear Coat for cars, now even my best mixes, were not as good as Alsa's chrome tinted clear coat. its the stuff of dreams, nex time I am getting a quart or half a gallon for myself...

 

Looks GREAT Cromarte. Hope I can get mine to come out as well...

Looking forward to the rest of your comments NicaMarvin

 

http://youtu.be/BS2ZC01UN8I