DIY Spray On Chrome

Hope everything is OK with NicaMarvin...
Hadn't heard from him on here in almost a week...
(I'm hoping for final comments he made to my last post)
Let us know you are OK man...

 

With Nicamarvin all is ok, there isnt any updates, and this is reason why Nicamarvin isnt here! how is Your progress? Bought chemicals?

 

Not yet...
When you last posted on my questions (see above) you answered down to near the bottom; but then it got late and you said you'd be back the next night.

Just wanting to get the final issues covered, and I'm all set to buy chemicals
I think you can review it, and she how far down you did answer, and where you left off.
Glad to hear all is well...

 

M5StudeGuy I am sudzhis, not Nicamarvin!

I think Nicamarvin give to u all answers, just buy and try, and try till u get all Ok!

 

sudzhis... this is what he had left to cover...
VERY important part here...
No.... I haven't bought anything yet or started until I understand the whole and correct process
I'm sure he'll let me know when he gets back on line
SO far he has been very thorough and I can understand his writing... your's not so much sometimes (sorry)
Please don't think I am being rude. Just had excellence success with NicaMarvin so far, and looking forward to wrapping up so I can order chemicals and get started.

I think he is aware when he stopped he still had a little bit more to cover. The end of his post stated

 

nicamarvin is having some family stuff goin on----he will reply --later

 

OK.. Thanks
I am looking forward to his reply....
In the mean time when you are building a street rod from the ground up; I have plenty of things to keep me busy for a while LOL

 

would this work on a valve cover for my car ?

can it withstand high heat?

i would be willing to pay you to do it rather than experiment myself and waste money.

not my vehicle but the red piece is the valve cover.

 

i could also go with this kit

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm

??

 

phrequenc this valve cover is painted, yes? Its mean, that paint hold this T` and thats mean spray on chrome will be good on this! I seen lot of silvered valve covers.

This kit from Alsa actually is paint, and best what u get is- polished steel effect, thats all!

 

Sorry about my English, this is not my native language and i use English only on this forum and actually dont need this language every day!

answers for this questions from me, and 99% they will be thats same from NicaM.

So is the correct order of process:
(Remember I am doing metal...)
Spray with the glossy black automotive base coat - (Or do I need some type of primer, and then the base coat (yes u need primer, than base, than clear coat! make perfect surface like glass!)) I saw Krylon mentioned, but didn't know if that was just for doing plastic (Krylon is for plastic, for methal is different primer)
then the 2k automotive clear coat (yes, best one is polyurethane 2k clear)
let cure 24 hours (it will be not enough drying for 24h in room T`. If u heat part in 50-60`C for 50-60 min. and leave for night it will be ok! If in 20` leave for 48h)???
prep prep prep.. sand to as slick a finish as possible

then clean, (dont tuch newer part, after painting)
spray rinse with regular or distilled water (ALWAYS use distilled water)
wetting agent
then spray rinse with regular or distilled water (distilled)
then tin (dual spray??) (not dual, use usual hand sprayer or usual HVLP spray gun)
then spray rinse with distilled water rinse very well, lot lot lot of DI water)
then sliver dual pump spray) (right)
then more distilled water spray[/B] (again wash very well)
then hair dryer (first use compressed air gun to get water off, but be sure, that air is 100% clean- no oils and water in it) (if is problems with compressed air, use hair dryer, but it will be very hard to get off water from part)
Leave part for few hours to dry, later apply clear coat.

then apply tinted top coat from Alsa's

 

The kit I posted is no good for the effect your getting ?

 

This kit is paint, there we talk about silver! Paint looks not so good!

 

That's OK... I understand the words, but the order gets me confused sometimes.
Don't worry; I grew up speaking English, and I still think it is the most screwed up language. If I had to learn it as a second language it'd be tough.

OK I need primer and base coat before starting the process. Since Krylon is not the right primer; what is??
Do I use a high temperature primer, and then a high temperature base coat or what?? I have 2K automotive grade high fill primer..... will that work for anything.? I assume since it is NOT high temp I can't use it on High Temp parts.

As far as making it slick like glass.... won't it need to be sanded. I know after spraying right on the surface, it then needs sanding to be slick like glass (if not, no one would sand cars after they painted them.) I figured at least a wet sand with some fine sand paper after the parts dried..??

SO I need to put them in the stove / oven - I'll have to find out what temps 50-60 C is. Another thing about America. We are still on the old "English" system and everyone else is metric.
DO you preheat the stove before putting the parts in..?? How long.
Aren't you afraid the fumes from the paint might cause an explosion>>

This goes to my question above - how do you make the surface smooth like glass without some type of sanding afterward. Any paint needs some kind of sanding afterwards for a glassy finish... so this part confuses me.
I know I put "Then Clean" and you wrote "(dont tuch newer part, after painting)" This tells me after I paint I don't do anything else before the silver process. I am guessing this is another language problem?? I am assuming it needs to be cleaned some how. I know I read a few times to wipe down and remove all finger prints...

OK. I know it said to buy two dual sprayers... what do you use the second one for. I had to assume one was for tin, and one for silvering.
Also if I decide to use my HVLP gun,... what type of air pressures do I set it for. I may have to skip the HVLP since air compressors often generate water. I do have a dryer system connected, but it's not always 100% effective... so I may just have to hand spray.
And when I clean the gun what type cleaning solvents should I use.

I run into same problem again with compressed air.... might just have to use the hair dryer from the start??
Just to be sure, what pressure setting do you apply the items to with the HVLP gun. I am guessing the top coat will come in some type of quart can, and I'll be FORCED to apply it with my HVLP gun??

 

wow you got it nice to the point buddy.. thanks...

 

sorry I've taken such a long time. I just had my first baby born on the 28th and he still in the hospital due to some respiratory issues, wish me luck, I'll be checking this page as soon as possible

 

thanks buddy, its my new born, he has some health issues, but I pray to God that all will be ok, and after a few more months I think I'll have enough saved to be doing more testing on the Spray on chrome system.. that is if my boy dont take my las cents... you know how having your own little family will take most of your time and most of your money...

 

Congratulations to the parents and good luck

 

thats correct. Killer chrome is not the same as "Spray On Chrome" or their ChromeFX. one is paint and the other is Silver, Real Silver

 

I've been able to reach near mirror looks(spray on chrome is a mirror) with good prep and the best chrome paint available(Innate Chrome)...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anS55zgcWbY

 

thanks buddy...

 

CONGRATS on the new addition...
Hope the little one gets better soon.

 

thanks buddy...

 

I look forward to one of you two posting a reply to the follow up questions I had...

 

yes, yes u can use hair dryer but take a big one- professional hair dryer it is much powerful than usual hair dryer!

For to spray top coat, use regular pressure 1,8-2.5 BAR or just read on paint can what is written there - best nozzle and how much BAR.

Ou it is longest post ever Hope it will helps to u!

 

Information for all!

Easiest way to figure out that silvered part is OK or not IS:- in room use photo camera with FLASH! U will see all defects!

2. Also u can use sun beam throw window (in room) and again u will see all defects!

 

OK Thanks.
I think I got it all figured out...
I think There was a little 'language' issue for the most part in me understanding...
Also, With my side effect from my past brain injury, it sometimes makes it hard for me to comprehend everything just right.... I appreciate your patience
I know you and NicaM have worked very much and very hard on trying to perfect this process so I want to make sure I at least do all the steps right. Sounds like it's going to be hard for a while to get perfect results even WITH the correct process. And I'll never do it if I don't do it right... LOL
Plus I hate to spend all that money on chemicals, then find out I was doing a step wrong and the money be wasted.
You guys sure help, and I appreciate it.

I think I got that all listed right now. If not point out anything I have wrong. I plan on ordering stuff ASAP when I have it all clear in my mind.
OH one last thing, what about humidity in the air. I know where I live the humidity stays very high - right now at 10 am it is 89%.
I assume with this (like with automotive paint) the lower the humidity the better. Have you found that to be an issue..?? I assume you have to do all your work pretty much outside like me..?? (not in an enclosed paint booth)

 

SO for my process
I'll sandblast everything and then use 2k primer.
Then apply what I call a base coat (I think some on here call it top coat) - but whatever you call it; it is the layer of paint on top of the primer, and under the silvering process.
Let that dry completely - 1 to 2 days
After that paint is on DO NOT touch without gloves.
Sand to shiney finish and clean DONT DO THIS
then put on wetting agent
spray rinse with distilled water
then apply tin
then spray rinse very well with distilled water
then sliver dual pump spray
then more rinse very well again with distilled water
then hair dryer (preferably air hose)
Let dry a few hours
then Top coat (clear coat)

I dont think that humidity is problem, problem is cold weather! When u start to silver, there will be so much big humidity like in sauna Of course if u use hand sprayer, than inst this problem

 

OK.. Thanks man for the clarifications.
I'll order some chemicals and when I do something I'll post some pics.
I have high hope that after some practice I can have some good results.
Thanks again to everyone.

 

I would like to inform you guys that my baby is healthy and fine, its at home now..

I'll be posting updates of the spray on chrome system whenever I get the chance of getting the chemicals again..