Hot Rods Do you think a mapp torch will work?

I am trying to drop the front exhaust y pipe to replace the 2 gaskets that are leaking on my oldsmobile station wagon with the 350 motor. Do you think a map torch can get the bolts hot enough to loosen then up? .Its the biggest torch I have . They are soaking in P.B buster now. Thanks Bruce.

 

All you can do is try. I doubt it though


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I've used MAPP gas to ***ist in the removal of stubborn spring perches and to bend steering arms. It'll work...but just takes a little longer to heat up.

 

There is a good chance it will work. Propane I would say no, but the MAP gas burns a few hundred degrees hotter. Be patient when applying the heat. I would alternate between heat and the PB Blaster a time or two before trying to remove anything. Obviously make sure the last thing you do is apply heat before wrenching. Good luck.

 

Bruce are you talking at the manifold to pipe Or at head? Most at the pipe have nuts and sometimes you may have to cut or split the nut. If you don't fup the threads put a new br*** nut on.

 

I only have propane and it usually works with patience and pb blaster. U think you'll get it.

 

Mapp or propane will work, just a longer soak time. I get it hot, give it a blast of something like Liquid Wrench, come back when the cloud goes away and it usually works.

 

Bruce....About a two day soak with PB Blaster with maybe a hit of acetone will have you spinning those nuts loose

 

I usually do these the traditional way, I snap the studs off and spend a whole weekend getting the stub out with drills easy outs and lots of cussing.

 

That really is the traditional way!

 

OK Bruce, I am only letting you in on this tip because you are a Buick guy. Drill a hole in the flat side of the nut and hit it with a sharpe chisel to split it open. Repeat on other nut. Knock the nuts off and run a die over the threads, replace with new br*** nuts. Easy way to get you nuts off!!

 

Use a pin punch on the top of the bolt head (or the bottom end of the stud if you're removing a nut) smack it a couple of times straight on with a hammer, then try a wrench or socket to remove.

This was the best method for loosening a stubborn bolt or stud from a turbocharger exhaust housing when I worked at the turbo shop. No oil needed that just made a mess, and the heat only came out if the head snapped off and we had to extract the remnants out of the housing.

 

Thanks for all your ideas .Keep them coming.I will keep you posted and let you know what happens.Thanks Bruce.

 

I was able to get mine off with mapp gas on my 79 Ranchero.

 

I had a few stubborn pieces of hardware on my Ford... no propane for the torch. Went with my impact hammer and a flat punch on the sides of the nut and it came apart without a fight.

 

Yes, I think Mapp gas will work. Most times just a little heat will do the job, you don't necessarily have to get it cherry red to work. I recently broke loose a rusty pitman arm with a propane torch and that ****er wasn't going anywhere with a 16" adjustable wrench with a persuader pipe on the end. Same was true for the splined arm itself. I was afraid I'd bust my puller before she let go. A little propane heat and she loosened right up.

 

I use my nut splitters if I can get them in there or take a dremel ( not my die grinder or muffler cutter ) with the thin blade and slice the nut as not to damage the threads of the studs .
also helps to brush all the rust off the stud/nut before trying to loosen it as the rust will try to gall the threads and lock it tight ,
speaking of tight if you can tighten them ( nuts) it a smidge and stretch the threads and sometimes they come off easier that way but once you start removing them do it quickly as not to let them seize .
also remove all loose rust before spraying penetrant as the rust absorbs it and expands and locks it up , another is try the micro crystaline candle wax method , works great for old rusted nut/studs ,


and if you can get the studs out , replace them with stainless and use br*** nuts , motormite/help sells the kit .

 

Stimpy x 2

 

Got a CO2 extinguisher? Use the MAP, then the CO2, then the MAP and it should come off. Most of the time there is little room to get in there with a wire brush to clean off all the rust, but if you can, do that first, before the PB Blaster or other penetrant. These guys echo my experience with rust locking up in the threads.

 

Ok guys, I got the p*** side off with heat and P.B. buster but they were nuts and bolts on that side. .Looks like some one had broken off the bolts and drilled them out and put nuts and bolts in place .The drivers side has the 2 bolts. I have sprayed them heated them and banged on the bolts with a punch .They still wont move. I soaked them down good with P.B blaster again for the night and will see what happens tomorrow. I don't want to snap off the bolts and pull of the exhaust manifold and drill the bolts out. Thanks to all for the help so far. Bruce.

 

If you don't want to mess it up, be patient. Any rust present has had several years head start on you. Watch out for those locking tab-things (if equipped). They gave me at least 30 minutes of frustration changing the Y-pipe on my first car ('72 Dart.) I had no idea they were there and could not figure out why the wrench would not fit on it.

 

Heat the nuts with your MAPP until the nut is as hot as you think it will get. ASAP touch the nut at the stud (both sides if possible with a candle). Beeswax supposedly works better. This works like magic. Just this week we removed a timing gear from a Model A crank that we heated with a oxy/acetylene touch. No progress until we touched both sides of the gear with a candle. That did the trick. Good luck.

 

Spitbuck.These are bolts not nuts Still think the candle thing will work? Thanks.Bruce.

 

Bruce, sorry on the nut/bolt deal. Candle or beeswax is the best thing out there for freeing rusty or stuck nuts, bolts, pressed on parts etc. First time I saw it used was on a SBC oil gallery plug. We had the area heated to orange hot and the plug would not budge. We touched a birthday cake candle to where the threads met the block. Came right out. In your case, try it, you don't have much to lose (MAPP gas & a candle). I bet it will work. Let us know. I can't believe someone did not suggest this before I did.

 

Spitbucket.I tried it but snapped both both bolts off, Now I have to pull the exhaust manifold off and drill them out .I hope the exhaust manifold comes off easier .Of course the other side bolts came right off .I hope this is easy or I am going to be drinking early today lol. Thanks Bruce.

 

Sorry for the breakage. Sometimes a beer or two sets things in perspective.

 

I am a vodka and sprite man lol. If there are only 5 bolts holding on the exhaust manifold on my 350 olds motor I got 4 off and will only have to cut 1 off. Then drill out the broken studs. Its always something. lol.Have a good weekend.Bruce.

 

Ok guys I didn't want to drill out the out the broken studs on the exhaust manifold and put bolts and nut back in place of them.I wanted it done right. No around here said they could drill them out and re tap them, except 1 place. Its just for 1 manifold and the 2 studs.What do you think a fair price would be? I think I am getting raked over the coals on the price on this one. Thanks. Bruce.

 

Maybe look for another manifold?

 

I get like $50 an hour for stuff like that. I could see it running $75-100 at a shop less hardware costs.